Ca hydraulic pump

Sounds as though the tranny case is getting clean. I think you'd be fine using diesel to rinse the tranny case as long as the tractor isn't running. You can remove the side cover to give you access. The shift forks are attached to that cover. Have the tractor in neutral when you remove the cover and make sure that you know where the gears and collars are in neutral in case you move something while flushing the case and contents. Use a spray bottle to flush. Have the collars lined up correctly when reinstalling the side cover and shift forks....the forks need to engage the shift lever so it needs to be in neutral position when you do this. I'm remembering all this from when I worked on the tranny years ago - it was popping out of third back then.

Maybe try it again with the 303 oil and see if it improves? How does the inside of the pump reservoir look now? Do you know how much water was hiding in the tranny? Might help to know how much water has to be added to the oil to turn it brown....take a known amount of the oil and start adding water to it and shake it each time to see when it starts to turn brown. One other thought: there may be pockets in the tranny that are hold oil/water but not draining. You could pull the side cover off tranny case and wash it down with something that will dissolve the oil, then carefully use compressed air to blow liquid out of the hidey holes.

Edited by Dave(inMA) - 30 Mar 2020 at 5:18pm

Yup. Like this: http://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/ Don't think we need the hi-temp version, but I'm not seeing a low-temp option! 

Matt - nifty temporary plate! Let us know how the cleanup goes.

Made a temporary cover
What would be best to put in and let slosh around for a short drive up and back on driveway?( Trans/ hydraulic oil or diesel fuel)?
Nothing fancy but just want the cleanest area I can get with all the time and effort and small money amount invested to limit re contamination...( Plan on driving 300' total to help wash any remaining junk out of areas I can't spray brake cleaner, like the differential area I'm thinking...)
Thanks Matt

Drive it out with a hammer and soft punch.      MACK

Mack, is the shaft that holds the cam followers pressed in? I cannot see any clips or pins securing it into place. Thanks. 

Edited by Dartguy - 29 Mar 2020 at 8:36pm

I really like the idea of a temporary plate. I think you should make one and then rent it out to guys like me!

I'm wondering if I could make a temporary plate to go over where the hydraulic pump normally sits. refill the transmission with fluid drive the tractor around a bit then drain it so that I do not get any of the leftover junk from my transmission or anywhere else that I cannot get to to flush out of it back into my pump that's super clean now...Does it sound like a feasible plan or not?( Also trying to come up with a way to completely clean out the two hydraulic cylinders for the three-point?)
I've lowered and raised the 3-point arms manually and got a lot of milky watery leftover hydraulic fluid out of the hoses and cylinders but I'm wondering if I put the hydraulic lines in a bucket of fluid and manually move the 3-point if I could suction up enough hydraulic fluid to clean it all out?
I'm mostly thinking of doing all of the flushing because of the metal filings I found on the magnetic drain plug (that was the 2 cotter pins from the drawbar control linkage that were ground up and then recirculated through the whole system I'm sure?)

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 28 Mar 2020 at 4:35pm

Use some penetration oil around them. With a small hammer, a quick rap will some times bounce them up enough to get ahold of them. Have had to weld a nut to them and twist them out.            MACK

Dakota Dave wrote: No such thing as a kit for this pump. It only has two O rings for soft parts the shaft seals and they never go bad unless you tear them. Take it off the tractor put on the bench it's best to use something like a cake sheet to disassemble on. Each of the 4 Pistons has a small spring behind them. Each of the 4 plugs on the top has a ball behind it pull the control back part off . Slide out the pins that hold the actuating levers in place and remove the Pistons and springs make sure the springs aren't broke 3 Are the same the 4th is smaller diameter. Now carefully clean out the passages from the piston there are no seals just metal to metal the seats up top and the balls need to be clean and not deformed. Keep track of the 4 little slugs that slide in from the back they need to go back in the same order. There is a spring behind them that pushes against the feel after valve adjuster screw. More than 90 % of these pumps can be repaired by simple good cleaning. The pump Pistons get stuck and the cheek balls get crud in them. I've had 2 pumps that needed a spring and one I had to repair the linkage in the cap it was wore out. I assume it ran a long time without oil as it was all rusty. This pump should have oil in it. I've only ever seen one with rust. Once you get it on the bench an take it apart it's pretty apparent how it goes back together. You can look up the parts diagram on the AGCO parts site.

Matt - sent you a PM. 

The spools that the small spools came out of, need to come out and be cleaned.   MACK     

That shaft pushes on the valves to shift them in "pump" mode...just setting in a hole.