Ca run a brush hog?

Not to hijack this thread, but a question I have regarding my WD45 and the PTO - but first, I do use the hand clutch when working the tractor; after spending years (decades lol!) on John Deere 70 and 730 it's a natural thing for me. BUT - my question, is there a reason for an over running clutch on a WD45? What I mean is, when I shut off the PTO and I'm running a bush hog, naturally the blades continue to spin, which of course translates to the implement's PTO shaft continuing to spin, ergo tractor PTO is still turning after disengaging PTO. Is there any harm that can be done to the PTO at that point? My thinking is NO, since it would be disengaged and the only parts still being affected by spin would end at the driven gear in the tractor's PTO gearbox. But, when you've had as many documented TBI's as me, sometimes the simplest, most straightforward trail is the most difficult to follow. That's the best way I can explain it. Sorry.

What Jgranat said. On both counts. Good decision, Hunt4. 

Buying one today!
Thanks guys!
Matt

Think someone should have told Cat they were doing it wrong too and should have followed Deere's design of push to engage?

Ok thanks for letting me know about this

CTuckerNWIL wrote: Ca has the standard 1 3/8 6 spline shaft. If you add an over-running clutch, make sure the PTO shaft of you implement will collapse far enough. Remember you are adding to the length by adding the clutch, and pull type implements are set up to the standard of 14 inches from the end of the tractor shaft, to the center of the drawbar hole.  If you drive thru a dip, and the implement is facing downhill while the tractor faces up hill, you can break something if the shaft wont collapse far enough.

Gary Burnett wrote: Hunt4Allis wrote: Ok thanks guys Sounds like it will work depending on the operator 😉 Operator is always the key

Hunt4Allis wrote: Ok thanks guys Sounds like it will work depending on the operator 😉

I personally think the tractor is in more danger of rearing up than the implement but I don't typically move fast enough to lose much sleep over it, or even rolling it over on a slope would be far more likely if you were being careless. TJ

Cernunnos wrote: I just finished a few acres cutting with a 5' tow behind King Kutter in very hilly ground. I mostly use 2nd gear with the throttle about 3/4th open. The vegetation was thick, wet and about 4' tall.  I am totally confident in the CA's ability to finish mow and have never had a problem using the hand clutch and find first gear more than slow enough if the going gets tough.

Thanks for the optimism oh, it's hard to find sometimes when you ask a question sometimes it seems like everyone wants to give you the negatives instead of possibly letting you know that it's able to do it.
I do notice that you have a wide front end on yours which add some weight and you have weights at the front which mine does not (I do have a wide front end I'm going to put on the front of it and also a front loader so it should be balanced better and not lift the front off the ground

I just finished a few acres cutting with a 5' tow behind King Kutter in very hilly ground. I mostly use 2nd gear with the throttle about 3/4th open. The vegetation was thick, wet and about 4' tall.  I am totally confident in the CA's ability to finish mow and have never had a problem using the hand clutch and find first gear more than slow enough if the going gets tough.  

I run a light duty Howse 5 footer on a C with a work saver 3 point, it carries it fine and is a pretty good match. The tractor will pick it up but it gets light in the front end, the CA with its rear set axle and bigger hydraulics should be just fine even with the hand clutch get an over running coupler it will protect your pto & you. I am in the middle of fixing up an old Woods tow behind 5 footer, but they are a lot more expensive around here than a 3 point unless you find a project like I did. TJ