Ca run a brush hog?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=162349
Printed Date: 27 Apr 2024 at 12:54pm
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Topic: Ca run a brush hog?
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Subject: Ca run a brush hog?
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:18am
| Hi all, I'm looking to see if anyone has experience with running a rear mounted brush hog on a model CA? Mine is a 1953 model... |
Replies:
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 11:03am
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What size bush ? What are you mowing? It will run it if used properly. I pull a 6ft. NI with my B.
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Posted By: festus51
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 11:13am
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I think it will run it. Just depends on how tall weeds and grass you are mowing and how fast you expect to go. and how wide the hog is ------------- We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 11:53am
| I will have to measure it |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 12:17pm
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I cut with a pull type King Kutter 5ft wide cutter sometimes with my CA does a good job except in real heavy tall grass for just general mowing it does good.I like a pull type much better than a mounted one especially on smaller tractors. |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 1:36pm
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If the hand clutch has been bolted together make sure you have an over run clutch on the pto. Even if the hand clutch is working I would still use one just for the peace of mind. The CA should handle a medium duty 5 footer unless you get into heavy grass. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 1:43pm
| Any pictures/ videos to show me? |
Posted By: OldAC
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 1:50pm
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Used to run a 4' pull type brush hog on a 44 B years ago for many many many hours of operation. I would be hesitant to want to lift a 5' three point brush hog if your CA has a 3 point conversion.
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Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 1:57pm
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Too hard on the pump or make it too rear heavy? What are the pull behind type look like/ operate?( Pto?) |
Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 2:35pm
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My brother used to run a 4 ft. one on his B. It was a 3 point. Use an overrun clutch. ------------- 1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 2:41pm
| Mycaa has a hand clutch lever so I'm not sure if I need an overrun clutch? |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 4:27pm
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To mow in the orchard and back swathes we have run an offset, 5 foot PTO driven tow behind type with our CA, no problems. 3pt type is likely going to be heavy enough to make your front end light if not lift off the ground, unless you have the front well weighted. The ORC will prevent the inertia of the brush cutter, through the PTO, from pushing/driving the tractor when you push the clutch. Accidents have happened where things were run into, tractors went into ditches etc. when that occurred. Using the hand clutch will overcome that problem as long as you remember to pull the lever. |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 4:41pm
Here are photos of a couple PTO driven trailer type rotary cutters/brush hogs. You can see some are set up with a remote cylinder on the mower to lift them some if needed while mowing. The ones with a turnbuckle or screw jack can't be changed without stopping mowing. Most can be changed to cylinders or screw jacks depending on what people want. 
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Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 4:43pm
Tow behind has it's own wheels, a hydraulic cylinder on the bush hog can be used to raise or lower it. A mounted bush hog would probably be to heavy on a CA, too much weight on the back, up in the air. The hydraulics will handle it fine, but may make the tractor unstable. I had a bush hog on a 9N long time ago, go up a little grade with the deck lifted and the front wheels would come up. at the least, you would need some weight on the front. Also, if you are unfamiliar with using a bush hog, be sure to use the hand clutch when stopping!! It will scare the bejeepers out of you if you don't, at the least! ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Hunt4Allis wrote:Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 6:13pm
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Ok, thanks all for the great info as always! Now I'm on the search for a used one for a reasonable price near ne Ohio? Anyone? Thanks Matt |
Posted By: Charlie (NC)
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 8:01pm
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I grew up on a D10 with a 5'AC bushhog. It would cut two rows of tobacco stalks off at the ground in 3rd gear but when you raised the lift you were never sure if the bushhog or the front end was going to come up. You learn to deal with it. CA has about the same power as the D10. |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:05pm
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I pull a 3 point 5' with my 5020. Seems to handle it well. I think the CA is a little more tractor than the 5020 so I don't see a problem. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:05pm
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Hmmm, same power? Not same weight distribution though right? I thought those were much heavier tractors than a CA?( Heavier front end?) I do have a wide front end that I plan on putting on and swapping out my narrow front which should add a little bit of weight to the front but I think with everything I've heard on here that the way to go is 2 find a trailer type that is a pull-behind with a hydraulic cylinder 2 adjust height of mowing slightly if I can find one in decent shape that somebody will part with. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:07pm
| Okay any pictures of that 50 20 with the brush hog mountain to it? |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:23pm
| I also have brand new working spin-out rims on my CA so I can adjust the rear wheels all the way out and make it more stable if I do end up buying the regular 3-point brush hog to run on this along with the wide front end that weighs more and I can also add weights to the front then, this 3 point brush hog that I have a chance to buy is from a friend that's a farmer end he doesn't use it much so I could probably try it all out and see how it works without even paying him unless I'm happy with it |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:45pm
| I used a 6ft finish mower on my CA 3pt. You need to add an unreasonable amount of front wieght to steer. With out wieght on very flat ground it was ok on any incline it would pivot up hill even with almost full brake. The loader on the front would keep the front down but when the mower was down its of course hard to steer. I ran it with the top link removed and the three point down.then left the loader off. Power was not a problem control however was. |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2019 at 9:58pm
| Not all are created equal. The weight of the same size (diameter of cut) brush hog can vary quite a lot from a light duty one for mowing mainly grass, weeds, and light brush sprouts to a heavy duty one that will actually handle brush and small trees. If you can try a 3PT one first, before buying it, it will be best. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 6:21am
| I have used a rotary five foot behind my 5020's for thirty years. Never hooked up the third link. I have never understood people hooking up the third link. I am cutting hay to feed with a 5020 now with a five foot with the hay as high as the hood. I am using low third. I have the left side of the old Ford cutter cut out to scatter the hay and only cutting half a cut. I opened up the field taking a full cut in low second. That is creeping. I used it where the yard grass was about a foot high yesterday taking a full five foot cut in high third. It all depends on what you define as handling it. Most likely kill the hand clutch on a CA in much over a foot high grass. |
Posted By: TramwayGuy
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 7:03am
| I use a 5 foot Bush Hog ‘Squealer’ on my 5030. Handles it really well, although the front end is really light when the mower is lifted. And the 5030 has some really slow gears that helps in heavy going. |
Posted By: Trinity45
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 7:10am
| I have pulled a 5' and a 5' 3ph with my CA with no problem. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 7:16am
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DICK has the plan... done this many times.... Use a 3 point mower if that's available, and don't connect the top link... it acts as a trailer mower. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 10:12am
I've also been thinking about getting a bush hog - could mow with D-14, WD45 or CA. Curious about Dick L's comment that mowing in tall grass would kill the CA hand clutch. Not disagreeing, just would like to understand. Thanks. Dave ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: TimCNY
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 12:15pm
Using it too often; not a wet clutch. ...I think... 
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 12:47pm
No pics but I am planning on using it soon so I'll try to get some. I really like the way it climbs over bushes. Tractor runs up on the bush, then I raise the mower then the tractor will go a little further, raise and repeat. It's great for clearing brush around a tree that is getting cut down. Thats what I'll be using it for when I put it on. You don't need to spin out your rears and for that matter you don't need a wide front. You just have to be careful. I know a guy that flipped a Ford N tractor, and they sit very low. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 1:17pm
The CA first gear is to fast in tall thick grass as it is with a roto tiller. The 5020's low range's can get slow enough that a toddler can out run it on its hands and knees. That would mean it would need to slip the hand clutch to keep from killing the tractor engine and clutch facings will only take so much slipping until one side of the facing finds the rivets on the other sides facing. |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 1:54pm
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I use a woods c-80 3-point hitch model on a wd and it kills it dead as soon as you hit 4 foot horse weeds. Thin or short stuff is o.k., half swath or less in giant stuff works, just extreemly slow but gets the job done ---- Hand clutch works, but I never use it because hand clutches are not user friendly. ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 2:03pm
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Thanks, Dick - just what I needed to know. Dave ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 5:39pm
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Dave [/QUOTE] The CA first gear is to fast in tall thick grass.[/QUOTE] If the tractor can't handle the thick grass, I cut it higher and cut it twice(lower the second time) or take 1/2 of a cut.
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Posted By: John (MO)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 6:46pm
| How in the world are hand clutches not user friendly? They are perfect for easing your way into heavy work while allowing the PTO to remain at optimal speed. Right up there with shirt pockets and sliced bread in the importance of things. |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 8:48pm
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I cut down a good sized field for my neighbor with my 5020. The weeds were hood tall. Ran right along cutting it down, but I did need to stop 3 or 4 times to flush out the radiator of all the debris. Even the cover screen couldn't keep it out! I really liked that field, 4 to 5 acres and not one rock!!! ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 10:50pm
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How does a 5020 compare in hp to my 53' CA?( I'm not familiar with it?) I'm going to give this a try once I empty and refill my hydro/ rear oil since it's milky looking- previous owner left tractor sit out with no lid on oil fill neck area... Think I'll try dick l's trick |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 4:54am
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[QUOTE=Hunt4Allis]How does a 5020 compare in hp to my 53' CA?( I'm not familiar with it?)/QUOTE]
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/tractor-brands/allischalmers/allischalmers-tractors.html" rel="nofollow - TractorData.com - Allis Chalmers tractors sorted by model
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 5:34am
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What I knw about grass/weed cutting 1) be sure blades are SHARP 2) cut in late afternoon,when they're DRY 3) cut 'high' 1st day, cut 'low' 3 days later 4) I'm allergic to grass ( as well as trees,dust,pollen and kitycats( cep Cloudy)) I can easily cut 4' high rye( sure is pretty now..) with my rider ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 5:40am
| I have an over run clutch I bought when I had Grand sons using it with a rotary cutter. One of them got pushed into a fence. I never use one myself. Growing up before they for sale I learned to jab the clutch and pop the gear shift at the same time on combines and corn pickers. I jab the clutch and pop the power take off lever on the rotary cutter the same way. When you hit the foot clutch it removes the pressure off the gears if you pop the lever at the same time. If you think a rotary cutter pushes a tractor try a combine. Ours did have a toothed slip clutch that sounded like something was flying apart rather than push the tractor. That brought out a yell of what the H E double tooth pick are you doing. |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 7:47am
I do this most of the time on my B with the 6ft. mower when I want to stop. If I don't have to stop in a hurry I will retard the throttle to release the pressure on the gears to take the pto out of gear.
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Posted By: RMD
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 9:49am
| My Dad used a 5 ft. MF pull behind mower on his CA for decades. It was a heavy duty mower with a "stump jumper" blade mount that really could cut brush. The big disadvantage was maneuvering in that you couldn't make sharp turns and backing the mower with it's short drawbar was difficult. Eventually the tractor PTO shaft sheared off due to the stress of cutting when turning (was repairable). |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 11:32am
|
The ONLY hand clutches that work are on the John Deere 730 tractors.---On them you PUSH to go NOT pull like ac.---The pull action forces the clutch lever in at a overly fast rate and you end up jumping the front end off the ground! --- There is no way to use the backwards things on the allis tractors. ---One of mine dont even have a handle, someone else got tired of it and locked it engaged, and removed the handle. IF allis would have made them like Deere, (push to go), they would be fine. ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 3:23am
|
Ok thanks guys Sounds like it will work depending on the operator 😉 |
Posted By: T.J._N.J.
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 7:04am
| I run a light duty Howse 5 footer on a C with a work saver 3 point, it carries it fine and is a pretty good match. The tractor will pick it up but it gets light in the front end, the CA with its rear set axle and bigger hydraulics should be just fine even with the hand clutch get an over running coupler it will protect your pto & you. I am in the middle of fixing up an old Woods tow behind 5 footer, but they are a lot more expensive around here than a 3 point unless you find a project like I did. TJ |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 8:07am
| One thing about not using the third link is you can cut higher from the ground in tall weeds or grass. Then go back and cut lower a week or so later after the taller tops has dried and will grind up easier. |
Posted By: Cernunnos
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 8:20am
I just finished a few acres cutting with a 5' tow behind King Kutter in very hilly ground. I mostly use 2nd gear with the throttle about 3/4th open. The vegetation was thick, wet and about 4' tall. I am totally confident in the CA's ability to finish mow and have never had a problem using the hand clutch and find first gear more than slow enough if the going gets tough.  ------------- 1951 CA, 1952 CA with cultivator, 20 Series 8' disc harrow, 2 bottom pick-up plow, forage blower, 2-row rear mounted drill corn planter, Allcrop grain drill, No. 80T sickle mower, MN No. 130 barge box |
Posted By: TimCNY
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 8:33am
| The only thing I have against brush/bush hogs or any mower behind the tractor is the fact that wherever the tractor tires crush down the weeds, especially milkweed and wild parsnips (or giant hogweed as well), the mower can't cut them and they pop back up. Even subsequent mowing won't do much to cut them once that happens. A sickle bar, or even an offset flail mower generally do better. Any suggestions for remedying that? In the woods and other such areas I can only use my tow behind, obviously, but then again those type weeds aren't generally to be found there. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2019 at 1:32pm
Thanks for the optimism oh, it's hard to find sometimes when you ask a question sometimes it seems like everyone wants to give you the negatives instead of possibly letting you know that it's able to do it. I do notice that you have a wide front end on yours which add some weight and you have weights at the front which mine does not (I do have a wide front end I'm going to put on the front of it and also a front loader so it should be balanced better and not lift the front off the ground |
Posted By: T.J._N.J.
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 6:43am
| Hey Dick, I always heard around my area to hook up the top link because supposedly if you caught a stump or something else solid that the implement would lever up in the rear and pin you to the steering wheel. I could see it maybe happening with a small 3 point disc more than a mower, but you would probably have to be flying for it to happen. I'm pretty sure the hitch would break or the tractor would stall first but I usually put mine on very loosely since that seed of doubt was planted in the back of my mind. TJ |
Posted By: T.J._N.J.
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:23am
| I personally think the tractor is in more danger of rearing up than the implement but I don't typically move fast enough to lose much sleep over it, or even rolling it over on a slope would be far more likely if you were being careless. TJ |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:30am
| Okay we do have a couple small slightly sloping hills here in Northeast Ohio but nothing steep. Is it generally better to mow with this type of brush hog with ACA going downhill or uphill then? I would think it would be better going downhill to keep the front end from lifting up especially if I use it as a trailer type brush hog and do not connect the top link? |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:36am
Operator is always the key
 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:42am
| Correct me if I'm wrong here guy's butt with the minimal amount of brush hog work I need to do when I go to stop or make it turn can't I just throttle down to eliminate the inertia in the brush hog blades so it does not push me around? |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:55am
Most times that might work OK but if you need to stop RIGHT NOW as in a stump in the way or a fence then having an over riding unit on the PTO is just the thing.
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Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:57am
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New overrunning clutches on Amazon for < $100. Cheap insurance against wrecking a tractor or worse. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 8:03am
X3 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 8:33am
| Okay I see them now they are just a direct in line mechanical type clutch correct? My next question is what size spline hookup is a model CA pto? |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 9:11am
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Ca has the standard 1 3/8 6 spline shaft. If you add an over-running clutch, make sure the PTO shaft of you implement will collapse far enough. Remember you are adding to the length by adding the clutch, and pull type implements are set up to the standard of 14 inches from the end of the tractor shaft, to the center of the drawbar hole. If you drive thru a dip, and the implement is facing downhill while the tractor faces up hill, you can break something if the shaft wont collapse far enough. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 10:26am
| Wow! Awesome information, thanks much!!! |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 10:52am
My King Kutter Hog has a very wide range for the PTO shaft to work in,don't know if they all are like that or not.
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Posted By: T.J._N.J.
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 11:25am
| a CA has a much higher PTO than most utility tractors do so be sure to grease your over runner often as there is more pressure on it than on a tractor like an 8N, I didn't grease my first one enough and it got really sloppy from wear. TJ |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 3:31pm
| Ok thanks for letting me know about this |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 7:25pm
Wooow http://www....this" rel="nofollow - www....this should be fun!!! |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 8:14pm
| Think someone should have told Cat they were doing it wrong too and should have followed Deere's design of push to engage? |
Posted By: Jgranat
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 11:12pm
|
Two things, running a bush hog on a tractor without live PTO and no over run coupler is asking for trouble, $50 bucks to save your life is cheap insurance. You cannot guarantee you can perform after a sudden woodchuck hole crossing, or bees nest upheaval, or whatever you encounter. If you can predict every situation you will encounter and guarantee the outcome you should buy a lottery ticket, only takes one to win, and one mistake for a serious accident. Second, hand clutches are a "run what they brung" deal, direction is a detail. I operate equipment for a living, often changing between several pieces a day and some controls are different, you have to adapt or else you should go flip burgers, not everyone belongs in the seat. I own 2 CA's and am looking at a third, the one that brush hogs has an over run on it.
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Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 6:17am
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Buying one today! Thanks guys! Matt |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 6:18am
| Over run clutch that is |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 7:09am
What Jgranat said. On both counts. Good decision, Hunt4.  Maybe we should put together a list of the top 10 (or whatever) things we can do to stay safe around these machines...... ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 9:53am
 ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: TimCNY
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 9:08am
| Not to hijack this thread, but a question I have regarding my WD45 and the PTO - but first, I do use the hand clutch when working the tractor; after spending years (decades lol!) on John Deere 70 and 730 it's a natural thing for me. BUT - my question, is there a reason for an over running clutch on a WD45? What I mean is, when I shut off the PTO and I'm running a bush hog, naturally the blades continue to spin, which of course translates to the implement's PTO shaft continuing to spin, ergo tractor PTO is still turning after disengaging PTO. Is there any harm that can be done to the PTO at that point? My thinking is NO, since it would be disengaged and the only parts still being affected by spin would end at the driven gear in the tractor's PTO gearbox. But, when you've had as many documented TBI's as me, sometimes the simplest, most straightforward trail is the most difficult to follow. That's the best way I can explain it. Sorry. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 10:32am
I never ran one, always used the had clutch. It doesn't hurt to have one, in case somebody panics and shoves the foot clutch in, but it won't hurt anything to use it like you do with the hand clutch. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 10:38pm
Here's a picture of my CA with the brush hog connected finally today. I did run a couple tests on it and everything seem to be going okay other than at one point I raised the unit up and I could not lower it back down it's almost like the hydraulics got locked up and would not lower but I checked them before I even connected to it, what do you guys think that could cause this? I don't know if I can change the settings like in the shop manual how it goes step-by-step how to set one of these pumps and maybe mine is just not set right? It seemed to work a few times just like it should and intermittently it gets stuck in the up position and with the handle how it should go down I can stand on the brush hog in bounce and it still won't go down, after I parked it in the barn it took about 15 minutes for it to gradually settle down onto the floor. The main problem with this is I need it to be sitting on the ground while I'm brush hogging to eliminate my front end from popping up because of the weight going up little hills and stuff I've popped a couple of wheelies and that's not good feeling when it happens with not being able to lower it onto the ground to control this... |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 11:24am
| Also wondering if I can use a solid square stock for a top link? |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 2:19am
|
I just replaced all the hydraulic fluid so I doubt it's dirt... It seems to be an intermittent problem as it will work for the first few lifts and drops minute once it goes up it will not go back down with handle actuated for down position and even me standing on the brush hog? Any thoughts fellas what could cause it? (I was looking through the shop manual and it tells you how to set up the pump operations by tightening and loosening the screws and I'm wondering if I need to do that now that I have something hooked up to it?) |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 10:28pm
| No ideas fellas? |
Posted By: UncleRuckus717
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 12:23pm
|
You might try taking the pump off and flushing it out with diesel or mineral spirits to clean it. The pump on my B kinda-sorta worked until I flushed 70 years worth of crap out of the pump. I had the same issue with the implement not lowering every time. What type of fluid are you using for the hydraulics? ------------- 1949 Model B |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 2:45pm
Well here's an update whether a CA can run a big brush hog?   The answer is absolutely it can!!!mine did a lot better without having the top link connected so thank you to Dick l for pointing that out to me I'm so happy with my model CA how well it handled everything I still need to get the hydraulic pump to work so that it can be lowered once it's raised and I'll just go over the field again and recut it the opposite direction once I get that done but my 4-acre field definitely got a haircut today!!!(it's not perfect because the brush hog was in the up position the whole time which probably actually was a good thing because the field was so tall as you can see in the picture is a lot of the weeds and grasses were as tall as my exhaust) Much appreciated to everyone who gave me information so that I could get this filled cut, thanks Matt |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 3:21pm
|
Do you have health/life insurance? |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 4:28pm
| Why? |
Posted By: Dennis J OPKs
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 5:16pm
| Just guessing--Tim doesn't like the angle which the photo appears to show the brush hog operating at. The photo could be deceiving but it appears that if that blade catches and throws anything--the operator is in a possible path of said object. Was told brush hog should be flat to slightly elevated on the back. In that stuff the CA will probably not have the hp it takes run it flat. Just a guess? |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 5:56pm
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A guard on the PTO shaft might be a good idea too. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 6:02pm
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I know it's supposed to be flat, I walked entire field many times in spring and fall when there's no weeds, and know there isn't anything that I can hit. My hydraulics pump is stuck in up position, and lastly it would have stalled/ overworked motor if I mowed it in all the way down position ( now I need to adjust pump so hopefully I regain the ability to lower it down after it raises and I can mow it low) |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 9:05pm
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Ok. I'll say it and you can tell me to butt out if you want to. You're risking injury or worse with the way you're operating that bush hog. Running it at that angle because the tractor can't handle it level (the way it's supposed to be) is asking for trouble. Way too many guys get bitten by the things that they "know" aren't there or "won't happen". BTW, do you have an ORC on that bush hog - yet? ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Dennis J OPKs
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 9:30pm
| The original question has pushed this subject to the extremes. Those last photos are definitely expecting too much out of a CA. Granted you can get it through there with less than the best results and if that's what you've got, I guess you go for it. More than likely if you do too much of it you're going to tear sometime up. As mentioned, safety should come first and be aware of the potential risk. I mow stuff like that including Johnson grass 6 ft high and its makes a WD 45 snort big time cutting it down to 6 or 7 inches high. 2nd is really too fast wide open and 1st is too slow. Good luck with getting your hydraulics working. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 3:23am
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Yes orc used And extreme caution I must have a good one(CA) I bought a few years ago and slowly been fixing up(when I bought it I was told that the motor had just been overhauled in the last couple years) I believe this to be true because it did not have hardly any problem cutting all this in 3 hours in first gear... |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 6:35am
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yeesh, I'm tired just LOOKING at the pictures, poor old CA !! It'd be easier on her to only take 1/2 widths of cut.Yes, it MAY take longer, might not though. there's a 'sweet spot' of engine RPM, cutter speed and ground speed where everyone's happy, same as blowing snow, where you can actually get more done,in less time. Also wait 2-3 days to let the 'grass' dry up real good before cutting 2nd ( and 3rd ?) time. Have fun but be safe !! Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 9:19am
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Obviously not many have bush hogged that type of weed growth. I have ground up weeds that high with my C and Woods 59 under the belly. It is not like a bunch of grass that is not brittle like hollow weed stocks. Running high in the front cuts off the tops first with the front and cuts lower at the back which keeps it from bogging down some in the course weed stocks. It would be nice to be lower in the front but if it is not tossing stuff above the PTO I wouldn't worry about it. If it is tossing trash that high I would hang a piece of plywood to the fender rails to save my rear stop the seeds from reseeding the field. Then fix the hydraulics. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 10:46am
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Yup, thanks dick I was amazed how good this cut and how little the CA struggled cutting these goldenrod weeds (I was in a hurry to get them cut before they went to bloom and got full of bees and me stung all over trying to cut this field) I had fun using the hand clutch and it worked flawlessly! It was a 95 degree day but luckily a nice breeze and cloudy and before a bunch of thunderstorms came and got everything wet so it worked out perfectly... |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 12:28pm
What you can do with a little ingenuity and common sense. I could have used my B and got that job done with that mower without the sky falling on us!
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Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 1:28pm
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Yes, I understand it wasn't the best senario to use it up like that but I started out in the field where it was not as tall of grass/ weeds to test it out and make sure it wasn't going to throw anything up at me and once I got started it was a blast using/ putting a 1953 to work ( like they were built to do!!!) It's not completely fixed up yet, it's getting a wide front end/ radiator empty/ clean out, trip loader bucket and then I can really get some use out of it 🤑and save some cash that I always spend every year to have someone come clean out the leftover hay from behind the barn from the cows in the winter! (It's been a long slow process but I'm making progress and am extremely happy with my little CA so far that I bought for four hundred bucks in the condition that it's in right now which was a steal now that I've used it end seeing how strong the motor is and that everything is in working order... |
Posted By: John (MO)
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 9:17am
| You know you stole that tractor. You better drop an extra sawbuck or two in the plate at church just to stay in good favor. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 10:12am
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I know I did, the guy wanted 1500 for it and I told him with needing new rims that were spin out and new front tires and rims that I had to be at that price for me to buy it and he agreed (I couldn't get the cash out of my pocket fast enough 😆) Which by the time that I got new spin-out rims and components for it a new front tires I was not taking advantage of him at all, but still a really good running CA it just needed some TLC from not being used for a couple years and I do believe him that the motor was rebuilt because this thing runs really strong other than it's spitting and sputtering which I think is just a matter of tune up... |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 12:58am
Update to this question about getting my pump to lower after raising it all the way up( it really likes lifting up, but will still not go down other than after sitting off for 1/2 hr or so... I've started to do the set up from the pump setup page in shop manual but I have a sneaking suspicion that it's not going to help with this issue, but it's the easiest first option I have to try.it actually worked raising and lowering hydraulic cylinders before I replaced the rear fluid, now after I " thought I helped the situation by doing routine maintenance it only raises??? Any ideas welcome, thanks Matt |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 5:44am
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I remember tearing the pump apart 3 times to get ALL the gunk and krap outta it before it'd work like it should. I think it was the 'screw and ball' on the front of the unit that was the culprit.that was 10 year ago. dang ball 'went for a roll'...2 hrs later found it on the concrete floor..THAT.. I remember... whew.... someone with a CA will respond..wish I still had mine...,sniff ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 6:10am
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Yeah I'm kind of mad at myself for trying to make this thing run better and last longer by changing all the oil because as soon as I did it quit working altogether whereas if I left it as it was I could have finished all my chores then replaced all the oil 😆 If I could put all that milky watery oil back in I might do it just so I could have it working again for a couple days but I hate to abuse things that are old to begin with so I figured I would put new oil in it before I started abusing it and it bit me in the butt |
Posted By: UncleRuckus717
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 12:19pm
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I may have missed it, but have you tried adjusting the thumbscrew the changes the lowering speed of the hydraulics? If I'm not mistaken, the pumps on the B C and CA are pretty similar, there should be an adjustment thumbscrew you can use to tune the lowering speed. It could be your old water-mix hydraulic fluid was thin enough to allow the hydraulics to lower correctly as set. Using the correct oil (which is obviously thicker than water) could cause the hydraulics to lower PAINFULLY slowly (over night!) or not at all. What type of fluid did you use when you did the change? (Sorry if I missed that). ------------- 1949 Model B |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 12:32pm
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I have not started to adjust that part yet, but I am going to be here in about the next half hour. I used oil from my local TSC called supers 303 tractor hydraulic fluid (it looks to actually have a picture of a Allis Chalmers model c a right on the front) Any tips or tricks to adjusting this pump would be greatly appreciated, otherwise I'm going to delve into the adjustments of this and hopefully I can make an improvement. I thought I had seen somewhere in here that it said to have the cylinders fully extended? |
Posted By: UncleRuckus717
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 1:30pm
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I have only worked on my B personally, so hopefully some of the experts will chime in about the CA adjustment specifically. I read the service manual I have that covers the G, B, C and CA and it does not mention the adjustment for the lowering control screw under the CA hydraulic pump section. With my B I just lifted the implement, adjusted the screw a little bit one way, and lowered the implement until I was happy with the speed. I am sorry I do not have more information specific to the CA. The 303 from TSC is the same stuff I have used for years, works well for me in all seasons, so I'd say we can surely rule out the hydraulic fluid as a culprit. Good luck! ------------- 1949 Model B |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2019 at 12:17am
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So I set all to the specs, only will raise still no lowering... Decided to start up tractor and play with adjustment s and whala! It's raising and lowering (the setup shows the 1/4" diameter operating rod should be out at end of rod but for this pump it wanted it right physically dead center on rod) I know it is probably a quick fix but at least I can finish brush hog work and a couple other projects with it until I can remove pump and see what's worn out internally 👍 |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2019 at 5:56am
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I'm happy you got it working right, if not properly ! When you goto 'look at the pump'... ...be sure to clean off workbench, lay down USED white bedsheet or towel, have LOTS of GOOD lighting, 2-3 copies of the pages about the pump and sweep the floor real good BEFORE opening up the pump. The check balls( ball bearings) are spring loaded and WILL want to escape ! I had to clean mine 3 times before I got all of the 60 year old slimy sludge out of the innards of the pump. cheers Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |