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Sugarmaker 
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8168
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 Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 10:21am |
Marv, I watched your video. Nothing to out of the ordinary for your WD and 6 volts. I think your starter may be OK. I think its kicking out only because the engine fires for a couple revs and then dies. If you take the time to change to 12 volt negitive ground you will not regret it. You use the tractor a lot. You want it to start when your ready to haul logs, and do work. I would check the plugs and wires. Sounds more like it needs a tune up than anything else to me. I think your current wir sizes are good. and would work for 12 volt too. 12volt alternator plus 12 volt battery is going to be your biggest expense. Build a bracket to mount it. I have converted 3 of them. Yes light bulbe will need to be changed to 12 volt. Nice WD you have! Mine are all at other locations. But the 45 at my daughters has been starting real good even in cold weather. (That one had been converted when I bought it.)
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 11:49am |
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When you do switch to 12v if you don't replace the armature and fields, put the smaller 12v cables so you build a little voltage drop in the circuit. That way your starter doesn't get the double hit of 12v and max current. I did this on my CA about 20 years ago. Starter is untouched as long as I've had it.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18727
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 4:09pm |
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One of my WC's is still a 6 volt and also has a magneto on it. It has a battery, but I never use it. I don't even know if it has a charge?
I have it set up so that you can take and lightly pull o the crank and it pops right off. Your son could do it, it's that easy. It all has to do with carb setup and timing and magneto. If you'd redo your mag so that you get max spark, it really makes a difference.
My CA is 6 volt and I'm torn between changing it to 12v and leaving it 6. All I use it for is cutting grass, but if I ever need it at night,,,,,,well, I'd change it over then.
I changed my C from 6 to 12 and was glad cause I used it at night a lot and the brighter lights paid off. Seeing as you use yours at night a lot, you probably will want to also. The LED bulbs make ONE HECK OF A DIFFERENCE...
But yeah, CLEAN BIG cables are best. Your ground is fine, it's the one going to the starter that needs to be a MINIMUM of 2 and I agree with using 00 if you can find it. Welding cables are the BEST though. And you know where to lay your hands on some of that..hehehe
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18727
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 4:11pm |
 Gary Burnett wrote:
When it comes to a tractor I'm using to work with I want what works best not some antique system that was state of the art 50 years ago.You still use the same phone(if you even had one) that you used 50 years ago? |
The one I used 60 years ago most people have only read about. The good old crank phone. The good old days... 
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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littlemarv
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Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 10:39pm |
Well, got back to the WD starting problem today. Took the starter to a co-worker who rebuilds them regularly. He said it looked real good inside as far as the brushes and shaft bushings go, but the big spring inside just didn't look normal. He put a new drive on it and put it back together. So, installed the starter, made sure the nose cone and set screw were clean, cleaned the battery posts, hooked up some nice big 00 cables, and topped off the water level. Replaced the plugs and wires, Autolite 295's gapped to 0.030". Set the valves. Set them to 0.012" cold, which should be pretty close to 0.010" hot. Some of them were a bit loose. The rockers looked good and clean, frost plugs looked good. A little white gunk under the valve cover, but the oil isn't milky, so I will chalk it up to condensation. So, here is the "after" video. What a difference! I've never noticed this clamp under the fuel tank. Did the cable originally get clamped here? So, thanks for all your help. What a difference a little maintenance can make. I guess the 12 volt conversion can wait.... Thanks for looking.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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dawntreader74
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Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Location: Manteno
Points: 1758
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Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 10:56pm |
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all the 6V' should be POS' + ground' came new like that.
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littlemarv
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Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 11:16pm |
That's an interesting point. I never fully understood the difference between positive and negative ground. And what it takes to switch from one to the other. Negative ground is how it was when I got it. Should I switch it back?
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
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Posted: 20 Mar 2018 at 7:02am |
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SSwitching ground , without knowing what to do can easily let the smoke out of the generator. The tractor don't care which way it's grounded, the generator does.
As far as the core plugs in the head, they ALWAYS look good till they blow a leak, because they rust from the bottom
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
Points: 5636
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Posted: 20 Mar 2018 at 9:35am |
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The generator requires flashing when changing the battery polarity and should be flashed after its been to the shop for testing or repair. Flashing puts the proper polarity magnetism in the field poles so it generates the proper polarity. Flashing involves jumping the B to A posts on the voltage regulator before starting the engine. There is often a spark when breaking that jumper after a couple seconds, hence the name flashing. A generator that builds voltage opposite polarity of the battery can have a short life, and the voltage regulator/cutout will have an even shorter life.
The coil primary polarity should match the battery polarity for the best spark. E.g. + on the coil to ignition switch for negative ground, + on the coil to the points for positive ground.
The connections on the ammeter need to be swapped when swapping polarity so it indicates properly. For negative ground the - post needs to go to the battery positive post and the + post to the generator regulator and all the electrical loads through their switches. For positive ground the + post goes to the battery and the - post to the generator and loads.
Radios are sensitive to polarity and modern solid state radios can fry instantly with reversed polarity. Not much in solid state radios for 6 volt systems.
Gerald J.
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