Converting a WD to 12 volt
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148156
Printed Date: 08 May 2024 at 8:24pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Converting a WD to 12 volt
Posted By: littlemarv
Subject: Converting a WD to 12 volt
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 7:08am
|
Kicking around the idea of converting the WD to 12 volts. I know lots of people have, but what exactly does it all take? 1. Its a magneto ignition, so that shouldn't require anything at all, correct? 2. The 6 volt starter is just about kaput. Do you just have it rebuilt with 12 volt windings, or is there more to it? 3. I have no problem making brackets to mount an alternator. I thought about getting one of those mini ones that are about 35 amp. I know I've read on here about having to rev up the engine to get certain ones excited. I thought a guy could put a smaller pulley on, or turn the existing pulley down smaller to make it spin faster. Always good to have a machinist friend... 4. In a pinch, is it O.K. to jump start a 6 volt system with a 12 volt battery? I know it works, but can you wreck something? I tried it once, I hooked up the jumper cables, pulled the starter rod, and unhooked them immediately. Boy, I've never heard that tractor spin over that fast. I'm not sure if the impulse was even working! The engine in my pickup sure bogged down when I hooked up the jumper cables, though. I'd like to keep the tractor original, but it sure would be nice to run LED's, an electric water pump, sprayer, maybe a winch, stuff like that. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Replies:
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 7:33am
| Understand everything seems to run off 12V now. But does your starter not want to turn the engine very well? You have to hit it several times to get it to turn? Take the starter apart and check everything. Does it have scratch marks on the armature like it's been dragging? Replace both end bushings. What do the brushes look like? Wore out completely? Clean real well and look at the windings. Is the varnish coming off? You might try respraying it with a heavy duty varnish. Let it dry real good before you reassemble. May work or may not. You haven't spent very much so far, and if it works you got a down payment on a WD 45. LOL PS I guess you have the heavy cables going to everything? Leon |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 7:37am
|
1) Nothing required as far as changing the ignition circuit is concerned. 2) 12 volts will work on a 6 volt starter, but if the starter is kaput, have it rebuilt. 3) I'm all in favor of using those mini Nippondenso alternators, but I haven't seen a one-wire version of one anywhere. 4) I'm not a fan of jumping a 6 volt system with a 12 volt system. Spikes and stuff can cause too many problems, not to mention the inrush current to the 6 volt battery. Besides, if you want to use LED lighting, 12 volts is a better choice. A winch takes a heck of a lot of power. You'd need a bigger alternator. Remember that alternators are rated at peak current. A 35 AMP alternator is only good for about 17 AMPS, continuous. Good luck finding a 6 volt winch. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 7:54am
|
Very good points. I forgot about the cables. I know the bane of 6 volt systems is voltage drop. When you only have 6 to work with, you need every one. For the ground cable, it has a very long steel braided ground strap. Its about 1" wide. It goes down to a bolt directly under the battery box. I don't think the positive cable is big enough, I will take some pictures today and maybe shoot a video of it starting. I cleaned the carb when I got the tractor, and I had the mag rebuilt recently due to a miss under heavy load, which did solve that problem. It runs great, just doesn't seem to want to get going. When I got the tractor 3 years ago, it started fine, but has been deteriorating over time. Guess its time for some long overdue maintenance, nobodies fault but my own. I have read on here umpteen times that you need to clean 6 volt connections twice a year. I have never done it in the last three. No matter what, the starter kicking out thing needs to get resolved. If I get that rebuilt, and put some big honking cables on it, we will see how it starts then. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:06am
| Make sure to check the field coils to see if they are shorting to the case. I have wrapped a piece of black tape to stop that. If you have a starter shop where you live you can take it there to see where anything is shorting out. When putting the starter back in don't over tighten the set screw as you can distort the case and bind things up. In fact it might be a good idea to check it and see if that is what is happening. |
Posted By: BEK
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:20am
|
As an example, Steiner Tractor has an alternator and bracket kit for the WD. If you have any lights on your tractor the bulbs need to be switched to 12V or upgrade to LEDs. If I was going to convert an old tractor to 12V, I'd install a new wiring harness. Putting all that juice through the old wires may get interesting. Keep a fire extinguisher handy the first couple of times you run it. Sounds like a good project.
|
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:31am
|
So, can I get the starter rebuilt and then just hook it up to either 6 or 12 volts? Oh yeah, forgot to mention a couple weeks ago, the steel band came off the back of the starter, revealing a layer of duct tape. That just can't be good. I've never thought about it. Can you buy a new starter? Just in case my case is shot or something. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:42am
|
I converted my D14 over to 12 volts around 30 years ago and kept the starter as 6 volt. Really spins over fast but it is hard on the starter itself. Usually the spring inside it breaks every 5 years or so. Before you do anything, get your old starter rebuilt and use thick cables. You may be surprised at the difference it makes. If you have a crappy starter, 12 volts isn't going to help anything. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: BEK
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:44am
Yes your 6V starter will work with 12V. New and rebuilt starters for the WD are available on ebay but there may be a better source. Good luck.
|
littlemarv wrote:Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:47am
| Steve can rebuild your starter or sell you a rebuilt one. You don't want to crank a 6 volt starter with 12 volts for too long without giving the starter a rest, but the tractor will usually start very quickly. |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 9:13am
|
The only thing I understand about the starter using 12v is don't grind on it very long at a time if it won't start. I guess starter really doesn't care if 6 or 12v. Check out Duey's page http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/" rel="nofollow - http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/ ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 10:03am
|
I converted my WD to 12 volts about 15 years ago. The 6 volt starter works just fine.....I replaced the brushes a couple of years ago but I consider that maintenance. The first big snow we got was a few weeks ago when we had a simultaneous "cold snap". I went out one morning when it was two above and the tractor had not been started in about 2 months. Cranked right over and fired right up. My conversions may be a little unconventional (I've done three) because I use all Ford stuff. That's because I've "parted out" 10 or 11 Falcons and Comets over the years and I just have all the parts. I simply follow the Ford wiring diagram even using the infamous "pink wire" as the resistor for the coil. 12 volts gives you lots of options....I even have a brake controller for one of my trailers with electric brakes.
|
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 10:49am
|
We offer a complete 12V conversion kit for the WD/WD45 if interested. Visit our website. There's plenty of info on conversions, what to do, what not to do etc. Plenty of pics also to look at. Pics of the wiring systems also. Be glad to help ya out anytime. Forgot to mention, if your Starter is about done, I can change it over to 12V's the correct way. Its always better to change the Starter to 12 if your going to convert the system to 12. Appling 12V's to a 6V Starter motor makes the Starter violent. This could lead to broken nose cones, damaged ring gears etc. HTH mailto:Steve@B&B" rel="nofollow - Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 11:43am
|
The starter circuit connections are most critical in a 6 volt system. In my lifetime experience which started with my dad's new 1954 Ford is that 6 volt battery posts and connectors need cleaning twice a year, otherwise the corrosion from the battery fumes will make them work on going to an open circuit. When my dad's first new car was a year or two old, I was assigned that task at age 14. A battery cable from a wallyworld kiosk will be too thin for a 6 volt system where voltage drop isn't tolerated very well. I don't know about a WD but it has been reported on this forum in recent years that a B or C with magneto ignition may not start well with 12 volts on the starter because its turning too fast for the impulse mechanism to work, but too slow for good ignition voltage. Jumping a 6 volt system with a 12 volt battery is asking for an explosion of the 6 volt battery from nearly instant overcharging. Sprayed with battery acid your clothes will disappear on the side facing the battery and your skin won't be pale. The acid burn can be serious. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 12:19pm
| When it was absolutely necessary to jump a 6 volt tractor with a 12 volt, I have jumped directly to the starter....a bit of fire when you make the connection but it bypasses all the 6 volt stuff. With battery ignition, your 6 volt battery has to have enuf life to provide fire to the points. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 3:28pm
This only works if you have a solenoid between your battery and your starter stud. The OEM WD starter does not use a solenoid. The voltage will feed back to the battery with a WD. If you *must* jump a 6 volt system with a 12 volt battery, disconnect the battery first. Never disconnect the battery if you have an alternator. |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 3:58pm
|
Stick with a 3 wire alternator, it's not that hard to do and the exciter circuit will lower the RPM to get it charging. On my WD I put a charging light on the dash to serve as the exciter amp draw, once I rev the engine a little bit the light goes out and the volt meter jumps up to around 14v and stays there even if I throttle back, charges good. ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:17pm
|
6 volt starter is not a problem on 12 volts... I have heard the story of the impulse going to fast and not firing on a mag....... I have converted several with mags and NEVER had a problem with starting. Good mag, good plugs, good wires and correct timing and they all startup on 1 revolution of the motor. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:42pm
|
Kind of glad I started this thread. You guys are reminding me of everything I'm neglecting! Come to think of it, I have never put plugs and wires on it, or set the valves. I guess it's time to perform all the maintenance I have been "too busy" to get done. It starts better in the summer, but now that I have been using it in the winter, problems have been creeping up. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:28pm
|
Sounds like it just needs a little TLC instead of a conversion. My WD is well maintained and still has original 6 volt system with proper sized battery cables. It always starts, even in the coldest weather (-20C) and even tho it has an engine heater, I've never plugged it in. Any colder than -20C and I don't want to be on it!!! |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:48pm
|
When I go up to dads, I'm always in a hurry. Gotta run up there, usually with at least one kid, try and get something done, then scramble back to town for the next sports or family or school event. And heaven knows, if you are in a hurry, nothing goes right so everything takes longer anyways. The WD has always been the workhorse. I've always just jumped on it, did what I could, and left. Anyways, here's the starter and cables.  And here is a video of how it starts....eventually. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEs77eFsmPk" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEs77eFsmPk Keep in mind, it usually starts a little better than this, I just crank it and pull the choke rod out, as soon as it pops once, shove the choke back in and off it goes. But I didn't have enough hands while filming. So, since it will be mud season before you know it, and warming up a bit, might be the perfect time to rebuild the starter, new cables, plugs and wires, and valve adjustment, before we start field work in the food plot. What is the recommended size battery cable for 6 volt?
------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 9:08pm
Cept he has a magneto!  ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 9:41pm
|
Found some other posts, looks like 00 gauge is the way to go. I had a 12 volt battery in a forklift explode on me once. You RUN to the nearest water hose, that's for sure. But the most terrifying part for me was the BANG- louder than any gun I've ever shot. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 10:14pm
|
CTucker, Yep....That's why I qualified it by saying "if you have battery ignition".........
|
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 11:56pm
|
Actually turned over quicker than I expected. Much faster than dads CA even with a new battery. His starter stops after a revolution or so of the engine. Two quick pulls of the starter rod and then it usually starts. May need to look into larger battery cables and a starter rebuild also. I dont want to convert his to 12v if I can resolve the issue. Good post ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 4:10am
#0 AWG if you can find it. Have your local truck shop build a set from welding cable. It's more flexible. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 5:16am
|
Basically it boils down to with a 6V system you hope it'll start,with 12V you make it start. 12V is a lot easier on the starter because the engine will almost instantly fire up once you hit the starter.Also 6V batteries don't hold up well compared to12V I've used. We struggled with our WD45 for years with a 6V system then finally changed over to 12V should have done it years before we did.Was very nice to go out on a 10 degree morning and hear the motor spin over and fire right up. When it comes to a tractor I'm using to work with I want what works best not some antique system that was state of the art 50 years ago.You still use the same phone(if you even had one) that you used 50 years ago? |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:22am
|
Fundamentally 6 volt systems have worked for more than 3/4 century. They do require more attention to connections, especially at the battery posts. Today the selection of 6 volt batteries is very limited and they often sit on the shelf a long time. When buying a battery it is beneficial to learn the manufacturer's date coding and to hunt the stock for the most recently made to get good battery life. The typical three brush generators are only limited in current, not regulated for voltage and depend on the user to back off the charging current after the battery is nearly fully charged, else they will overcharge the battery which shows as a regular (almost daily) need for water replacement. The voltage regulation of the more modern internal regulator alternator can give many years longer battery life. I put a 12 volt engine in my 1964 VW Beatle and built a solid state regulator of my own design and continued with the car being 6 volts and essentially doubled battery life. That is hard to do commercially, but 12 volt internally regulated alternators are very common these days and will give much better battery life and the choice of batteries for 12 volts is huge. But 12 volts is not original for vintage tractors. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:39am
|
If originality is very important, stick with 6v, replace the cables, clean all the connection points. If you want faster cranking, lower battery maintenance, a greater choice of batteries, the ability to jump-start other machines (and have them jump-start you), would like to add great lighting or other electronics, swap the battery to 12v negative ground, put on an alternator, and replace the bulbs in all the lamps. I've converted all mine, and a dozen of others', for those reasons... with absolutely no complaints of any kind. One thing that nobody has noted- the worst thing you can do to a starter motor, cables, solenoid, and battery, is underpower it. When you stall or drag a starter motor, the windings carry substantially more current, and the stall and drag is irrelevant of reason- poor bearings, worn brushes, or insufficient current and voltage supply from the system. When you provide ample voltage and current to spin the starter motor, it's draw is lower, because the higher armature speed means faster commutation, and the reactance in commutation is substantially higher. The starter in my Hercules 338ci JXLD inline six is a 24v DELCO starter. I'm cranking it with a 12v 4D truck battery, and it rolls it over just as well at 12v as it does it's original 24v... it just draws three times as much current. When I took it to my local shop for a rebuild, I asked them what it'd take to swap the windings for 12v operation, he looked it up, and said same starter uses all same componentry, and same wiring... no difference between 12v and 24v for that unit... just a different solenoid winding, and a different reading on the meter under load testing. Now, I took a listen to your WD start, and what's happening, is that when your engine crosses TDC and SLIGHTLY fires, the starter is unable to 'stay with' the ring gear as it speeds up. By the sound of your starter bendix, I'd say you'd benefit from a starter rebuild. The kicking out is not only annoying, it's hard on the ring gear and starter bendix. The ground strap is a bit long, but that's probably not having as much impact as the ground connection path from the cover bolt to the starter housing. On these, the starter nose is simply slid into the torque tube casting, and a binding bolt clamps down on the starter nose shell. When you rebuild the starter, cleaning the casting, nose, and that bolt point and threads WILL help. I don't understand why AC didn't spec a grounding lug on the side of the starter shell, but they didn't. Your magneto impulser sounds really sharp and loud... perhaps it's just your camera and the inside of he building, but all my magnetos aren't that bright and metallic-sounding... almost sounds like the impulser's internals are hammering against the housing a bit. If you really, really, really want a good-starting tractor, hand-crank it... and then get the carbeuration an magneto set up so that it'll hand start easy. After that, it doesn't matter WHAT condition the battery, cables, and starter are in, it'll still start easy...  ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:59am
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/grd/d/working-60-amp-alternator/6487930188.html" rel="nofollow - http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/grd/d/working-60-amp-alternator/6487930188.html
 |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 10:21am
|
Marv, I watched your video. Nothing to out of the ordinary for your WD and 6 volts. I think your starter may be OK. I think its kicking out only because the engine fires for a couple revs and then dies. If you take the time to change to 12 volt negitive ground you will not regret it. You use the tractor a lot. You want it to start when your ready to haul logs, and do work. I would check the plugs and wires. Sounds more like it needs a tune up than anything else to me. I think your current wir sizes are good. and would work for 12 volt too. 12volt alternator plus 12 volt battery is going to be your biggest expense. Build a bracket to mount it. I have converted 3 of them. Yes light bulbe will need to be changed to 12 volt. Nice WD you have! Mine are all at other locations. But the 45 at my daughters has been starting real good even in cold weather. (That one had been converted when I bought it.) Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 11:49am
|
When you do switch to 12v if you don't replace the armature and fields, put the smaller 12v cables so you build a little voltage drop in the circuit. That way your starter doesn't get the double hit of 12v and max current. I did this on my CA about 20 years ago. Starter is untouched as long as I've had it. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 4:09pm
|
One of my WC's is still a 6 volt and also has a magneto on it. It has a battery, but I never use it. I don't even know if it has a charge? I have it set up so that you can take and lightly pull o the crank and it pops right off. Your son could do it, it's that easy. It all has to do with carb setup and timing and magneto. If you'd redo your mag so that you get max spark, it really makes a difference. My CA is 6 volt and I'm torn between changing it to 12v and leaving it 6. All I use it for is cutting grass, but if I ever need it at night,,,,,,well, I'd change it over then. I changed my C from 6 to 12 and was glad cause I used it at night a lot and the brighter lights paid off. Seeing as you use yours at night a lot, you probably will want to also. The LED bulbs make ONE HECK OF A DIFFERENCE... But yeah, CLEAN BIG cables are best. Your ground is fine, it's the one going to the starter that needs to be a MINIMUM of 2 and I agree with using 00 if you can find it. Welding cables are the BEST though. And you know where to lay your hands on some of that..hehehe ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 4:11pm
 ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 10:39pm
|
Well, got back to the WD starting problem today. Took the starter to a co-worker who rebuilds them regularly. He said it looked real good inside as far as the brushes and shaft bushings go, but the big spring inside just didn't look normal. He put a new drive on it and put it back together. So, installed the starter, made sure the nose cone and set screw were clean, cleaned the battery posts, hooked up some nice big 00 cables, and topped off the water level. Replaced the plugs and wires, Autolite 295's gapped to 0.030". Set the valves. Set them to 0.012" cold, which should be pretty close to 0.010" hot. Some of them were a bit loose. The rockers looked good and clean, frost plugs looked good. A little white gunk under the valve cover, but the oil isn't milky, so I will chalk it up to condensation.   So, here is the "after" video. What a difference! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJZrCUyrWtM&t=13s" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJZrCUyrWtM&t=13s I've never noticed this clamp under the fuel tank. Did the cable originally get clamped here?  So, thanks for all your help. What a difference a little maintenance can make. I guess the 12 volt conversion can wait.... Thanks for looking. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 10:56pm
| all the 6V' should be POS' + ground' came new like that. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 11:16pm
|
That's an interesting point. I never fully understood the difference between positive and negative ground. And what it takes to switch from one to the other. Negative ground is how it was when I got it. Should I switch it back? ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2018 at 7:02am
|
SSwitching ground , without knowing what to do can easily let the smoke out of the generator. The tractor don't care which way it's grounded, the generator does. As far as the core plugs in the head, they ALWAYS look good till they blow a leak, because they rust from the bottom . ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2018 at 9:35am
|
The generator requires flashing when changing the battery polarity and should be flashed after its been to the shop for testing or repair. Flashing puts the proper polarity magnetism in the field poles so it generates the proper polarity. Flashing involves jumping the B to A posts on the voltage regulator before starting the engine. There is often a spark when breaking that jumper after a couple seconds, hence the name flashing. A generator that builds voltage opposite polarity of the battery can have a short life, and the voltage regulator/cutout will have an even shorter life. The coil primary polarity should match the battery polarity for the best spark. E.g. + on the coil to ignition switch for negative ground, + on the coil to the points for positive ground. The connections on the ammeter need to be swapped when swapping polarity so it indicates properly. For negative ground the - post needs to go to the battery positive post and the + post to the generator regulator and all the electrical loads through their switches. For positive ground the + post goes to the battery and the - post to the generator and loads. Radios are sensitive to polarity and modern solid state radios can fry instantly with reversed polarity. Not much in solid state radios for 6 volt systems. Gerald J. |