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What y'all make of this situation |
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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Years ago when I moved down here to Hebron to farm, I started running Cenex oil in everything. When it come to my gas tractors, the Cenex manager in town thought straight 30 weight auto gold was what I should use. I reluctantly used it, but after running it with no ill effects I continued to do so. All of my GAS tractors have it in them, and use little to no oil.......until now. About a month ago, I changed oil in my D19 and in my one ninety gas, and put in the 30 weight auto gold, like they've had in them for years, and all of a sudden both are taking a quart of oil every 2 to 3 hours. One is running a PTO generator on a pasture well, and the other raking hay. Not heavy loads by no means. I talked to the cenex manager, and he said to change it out and put some 518 in em and see what happens. Guess I'll try that. I'm kind of sick to my stomach about the whole deal. What could have went wrong? Darrel
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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Could be coincidence or maybe they changed the oil formulation? I doubt that you will ever know for sure. It's a bum deal for sure.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 985 |
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And you are not using a multi-viscosity oil that "adjusts to the temperature" because ???
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CAL(KS) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3800 |
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UG a bum deal for sure. Good luck finding a kit for either engine!
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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DaveWisc. ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Oct 2009 Location: Wisc. Points: 1008 |
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I have used the Cenex oil for years in both gas and diesel. I use mainly 15-40 in the diesels which are a duramax with 145000 miles and my D21 neither use oil. My D17 I use 10-30 in and it uses oil and always has needs overhaul but dont use it all that much so am not going to do that. If I was you I would change to a 10-30 or 10-40 and try that. You can have a sample sent in to Cenex for a test to see if there is a break down of oilo or metal in the oil they do that around here for no charge and are happy to do it. Hope this helps you Dave
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 86249 |
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I don't understand the oil usage, but using a STRAIGHT weight oil in a motor these days is abuse..... Might work in summer, but 30 weight is WAY TO THICK to startup a motor in the winter months......... Look on you-tube at what 30 wt oil looks like at 10-20 degrees ambient. You should have been using a 10W-xx or 15W-xx motor oil from the beginning......Assume usage is burning due to cylinder/ ring wear or valve stem / guide wear .......... both might have had better luck in the winter with a 10w -30.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12024 |
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If the engines are damaged and now using oil (which is a bit of a premature conclusion granted) how is switching to a multi viscosity NOW going to help? If he'd used multi visc all along, it would have prevented wear at startup, especially in the cold, but always really. My guess is, both engines are damaged, and it's a freaky coincidence they are showing up at the same time like this....I hope I'm wrong or it's not too serious. Good luck.
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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I didn't see where Darrel said he was using the tractors in the cold winter months.
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12024 |
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Yeah, not currently anyway.
Actually, I for one didn't really mean my post to sound like that. Multi visc helps on start up wear (cold as far as the engine is concerned), and it sounded like he's been doing this for quite a while, maybe not.
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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The book will say to use 10 weight in the winter, and 30 in the summer. I realize that multi viscosities were not perfected at the time the books were written. BTW, it is summer time now. Some folks will tell you to use multi viscosity now; others will say stick to the straight weights. As posted, I've been using this straight weights for quite a few years now, and with good luck, as stated. The D19 does not get started in the winter time at all. The one ninety sometimes, but always plugged in prior to starting. All of my diesel motors get cenex super lube, 10-30 for winter; 15-40 in the summer. I've had good luck with that as well. I'm not condemning cenex oil, I just think think there may be some kind of a fluke here. Don't really know. Darrel
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3029 |
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Never heard of Cenex oil is it some kind of supposed super oil like Amsoil?
BTW I use Kendall diesel grade 15W-30 in every engine I own and never have had a problem that was oil related I know of. |
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34259 |
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Thinks you need to tighten up your drain plug... or the filters...
![]() ![]() Hope something that simple., |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I'm with Stan IL&Tn. They will never tell you they changed suppliers. MACK
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TREVMAN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Regina,Sask,Can Points: 1635 |
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First of all, sorry this chizzle is happening to you.
i know you and the boy and the whole family have had a tough spring, summer. Second, this just seems too much of a coinkadink to me. Two tractors previously running just fine, drop oil, change filter, new oil, same brand and weight, and, burning oil...a lot of oil. I would not change oil on anything else with the stuff you have in stock right now. If you have any new oil left of the stuff, I wonder if it could be analysed. Its just hard to believe that these conditions could develop in two engines simultaneously and so quickly...Glazed cylinders causing a blow by condition? I guess you could stick a scope in each cyl and see if there is any harring bone left, or if they are glazed up, or scored up. Otherwise, I think I would pull the pans, have a look see...Id check some bearing clearances, you can then see what the bearing material and the crank are looking like and what if anything is in the bottom of the pan. If that doesnt seem to get to the problem, I guess I'd have to take the head off, see what was happening there and on the valve train...Time to check valve clearance? Id run the tractor without the valve cover on and see how much oil is getting up there...If for some reason there is a bunch of oil getting to the top end, drowning it a bit, as a result of the new oil and filter cleaning passageways better...?But both wear out and start burning oil at the same time? I didnt watch every season of Matlock for nuthin...sumthin is up here... As far as the rest of it goes, I'm not gonna tell ya what oil to use, not the question you asked... I present these ideas as they all have some basis in my experience. For example a neighbor had a 4440. He had changed oil/filter with the JD genuine stuff. The tractor, which was not new, began to burn oil, but did not seem to lose much if any power. The owner was a solid, long term JD man, started with a D. They sent a salesman out to tell the man that the cyls were glazed, he needed to pull it harder. He indicated he was pulling a 32 foot deep tillage cultivator/chisel plow with 145hp rated two wheel drive on 20.8-38s and weight/calcium... They ended up taking his tractor to town and "rebuilding" it. I think they took it apart and honed it, put it back together. Or maybe they gave it the Ajax treatment and it quit smokeing... Sorry for the long post, take care. HTH, Trev.
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TramwayGuy ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: Northern NY Points: 11684 |
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"Never heard of Cenex oil is it some kind of supposed super oil like Amsoil?"
Cenex is a brand name, origin was Farmers Union Cooperative. CENtral EXchange. Have their own refinery in Minnesota. |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12024 |
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I hope the manager or representative supports your investigations. It is a hell of a coincidence. I hope they support you and you figure it out and it isn't too bad. Good luck.
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Dave H ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central IL Points: 3563 |
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I would stop running them now.
Then service one with Shell Rotella and see what happens. There is something amiss here. Just what I would do on the oil, use something else but change one out and run it. I run 15W40 even in my little three jug yanmar and it is very happy with it. Never add any. What a bummer. An update down the rod would be educational. |
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3029 |
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A story about Rotella T.A friend of mine runs several big trucks couple dozers,trackhoe
etc.He had always run the Kendall 15W-40 diesel grade oil,but he got a good price on a large quantity of Rotella T 15W-40.First truck he tried it in was a dump truck, that morning the driver calls back and says the truck has lost oil pressure.So my friend gets a filter and the Kendall oil he'd been using goes down and changes the oil back to Kendall in the dump truck on the side of the road.Fires the truck up oil pressure is back and ran fine after that. As he said he's not real sure what happened but he'll never use the Rotella T again. |
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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I am definitely going to put something different in, and see what happens. I'll go to my grave swearing that there was something wrong with that lot of oil. A little guy like me doesn't have a snowballs chance in hell of getting anywhere with cenex as far as any retribution. But like I stated above, the super lube that I run in my diesel engines is top notch. Brother in law bought an L2 about 10 years ago from a neighbor. Got it cheap, because the neighbor said it would burn a gallon of oil in a long day, and he had been using the same chevron oil in it as the owner prior to him had been using in it. We switched it to cenex super lube, and never added another drop of oil to it. Darrel
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tractorman ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: west central wi Points: 1046 |
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Just a thought from days gone by
Have we forgotten the experience of when high detergent oil was introduced and what happened to the old motors that had run their lives on 30 weight non detergent ? my 53 plymouth that did not burn oil sucked oil like an alcoholic after my service station manager said now is the time to switch to 10w - 30, my guesss is away went all the sludge that plugged all the leaks .
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Play on 38 B 49 WF , working on D14, D15 B10, Bee 12 B110. use 185 and 190
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Gatz in NE ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lincoln, NE Points: 1043 |
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Or... dissolved the sludge and now it's being circulated; tearing things up. Sludge in a non-detergent engine is some nasty stuff. |
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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I don't think sludge was the issue. The CENEX rep obviously was not qualified to make any recommendations about which oil to use. I doubt he bothered to open the owner's manual and check the manufacturer's recommendation. Alas there are so many of those shade tree 'experts' floating around who represent themselves as the last word - knowing more than the manufacturer. Then again the oil may have had nothing to do with the failure. The engines may have reached the end cycle of their life.
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1907 |
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If you are going to do oil samples I would send them some where else besides cenex, if there is a problem with the oil not always sure you would find out about it.
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sparky ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Indiana Points: 1732 |
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I would recommend Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne,Indiana. They will send you a kit for free to mail the sample to them. I used them to find out what I was dealing with on my 175 before I rebuilt the pump and injectors. They furnish very thorough and precise test results. Test cost me $27 and was worth it if just to find out that there wasn't any anti-freeze/water in the sample. Good luck.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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49WF ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 06 Nov 2010 Location: S.D. Points: 118 |
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Darrel, get a oil sample bottle from Butler Machinery, should be under 20 buck's.
Top notch oil lab. |
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More than I need
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5157 |
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We have been using Rotella T in our diesels since I can remember. Never had any issues, My guess is he had a bad filter on the dump truck, I had that happen to me in a Chevy Astro van. Changed the oil with the same oil but a different brand filter. Oil change special came with a free Fram oil filte. Big mistake, only 15 lbs pressure on start up. Removed it, put a new AC Delco filter on it the next day. Solved my problem. They sent the filter to Fram and promised to get back to me. Guess what, never got a call. I to hope the manufacture is honest with your samples.
Back to the origional post my guess would be as others have said, formula change or a flaw in production possibly. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11950 |
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I have never heard of Cenex motor oil either, but I'm on the other side of the country here in New Joisey. Kinda strange though that two engines all of a sudden started using oil. I've always run Cam 2 10w40 or 15w40 in all my Tractors and equipment and never had a problem so far. I have seen engines use oil if they were originally on straight weight oil then switched over to multi-grade. The multi-grade does a good cleanup job internally, but also could result in ring seal etc down the road which would lead to oil usage eventually....
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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john(MI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9262 |
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I would get a sample from both engines and have that tested before doing anything. If you change the oil they can say anything to get out of trouble. Remember how long it took to get Shell to admit wrong doing back when that happened to their oil? Or was that Penzoil?
Edited by john(MI) - 22 Sep 2017 at 11:45am |
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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ocharry ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 26 Jun 2016 Location: missouri Points: 288 |
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So Darrel...I'm just curious .... How long after the oil change did the motors start this oil drinking???
Was it a few hours or a couple days???? Did they start smoking...liked they were burning it??? Or are they bleeding somewhere??? Like rear main seal or front seal..valve cover??? Think maybe the valve guides and seal???? That sure is a lot of oil getting away from them.....and both after an oil change....hmmm....I just am curious Ocharry |
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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They started using oil immediately. The D19 is being used to run a generator at a well to pump water for some cows. When we shut it off one day, we dropped the oil and changed it and the filter while it was still hot. Checked oil next day before we started it, and it was spot on full. Ran it for about 2 and a half hours, then shut it off. Next time we needed water pumped, we checked the oil before starting it, and it was almost down to add. Probably used it about four or five times since, and each time it was down almost a quart. With the one ninety gasser, we've raked with it three or four times since the oil change, and it has used about a quart every 3 hours. Neither tractor leaks more than a few drips. They aren't smoking. Both still run like Champs. I dunno. Darrel
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