What y'all make of this situation
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Topic: What y'all make of this situation
Posted By: darrel in ND
Subject: What y'all make of this situation
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 8:29am
| Years ago when I moved down here to Hebron to farm, I started running Cenex oil in everything. When it come to my gas tractors, the Cenex manager in town thought straight 30 weight auto gold was what I should use. I reluctantly used it, but after running it with no ill effects I continued to do so. All of my GAS tractors have it in them, and use little to no oil.......until now. About a month ago, I changed oil in my D19 and in my one ninety gas, and put in the 30 weight auto gold, like they've had in them for years, and all of a sudden both are taking a quart of oil every 2 to 3 hours. One is running a PTO generator on a pasture well, and the other raking hay. Not heavy loads by no means. I talked to the cenex manager, and he said to change it out and put some 518 in em and see what happens. Guess I'll try that. I'm kind of sick to my stomach about the whole deal. What could have went wrong? Darrel |
Replies:
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 10:01am
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Could be coincidence or maybe they changed the oil formulation? I doubt that you will ever know for sure. It's a bum deal for sure. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 10:52am
| And you are not using a multi-viscosity oil that "adjusts to the temperature" because ??? |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 11:46am
UG a bum deal for sure. Good luck finding a kit for either engine!  ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: DaveWisc.
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 11:54am
| I have used the Cenex oil for years in both gas and diesel. I use mainly 15-40 in the diesels which are a duramax with 145000 miles and my D21 neither use oil. My D17 I use 10-30 in and it uses oil and always has needs overhaul but dont use it all that much so am not going to do that. If I was you I would change to a 10-30 or 10-40 and try that. You can have a sample sent in to Cenex for a test to see if there is a break down of oilo or metal in the oil they do that around here for no charge and are happy to do it. Hope this helps you Dave |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 12:05pm
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I don't understand the oil usage, but using a STRAIGHT weight oil in a motor these days is abuse..... Might work in summer, but 30 weight is WAY TO THICK to startup a motor in the winter months......... Look on you-tube at what 30 wt oil looks like at 10-20 degrees ambient. You should have been using a 10W-xx or 15W-xx motor oil from the beginning......Assume usage is burning due to cylinder/ ring wear or valve stem / guide wear .......... both might have had better luck in the winter with a 10w -30. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 12:19pm
If the engines are damaged and now using oil (which is a bit of a premature conclusion granted) how is switching to a multi viscosity NOW going to help? If he'd used multi visc all along, it would have prevented wear at startup, especially in the cold, but always really. My guess is, both engines are damaged, and it's a freaky coincidence they are showing up at the same time like this....I hope I'm wrong or it's not too serious. Good luck.
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DaveWisc. wrote:Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 1:28pm
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I didn't see where Darrel said he was using the tractors in the cold winter months. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 1:38pm
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Yeah, not currently anyway. Actually, I for one didn't really mean my post to sound like that. Multi visc helps on start up wear (cold as far as the engine is concerned), and it sounded like he's been doing this for quite a while, maybe not.
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 1:57pm
| The book will say to use 10 weight in the winter, and 30 in the summer. I realize that multi viscosities were not perfected at the time the books were written. BTW, it is summer time now. Some folks will tell you to use multi viscosity now; others will say stick to the straight weights. As posted, I've been using this straight weights for quite a few years now, and with good luck, as stated. The D19 does not get started in the winter time at all. The one ninety sometimes, but always plugged in prior to starting. All of my diesel motors get cenex super lube, 10-30 for winter; 15-40 in the summer. I've had good luck with that as well. I'm not condemning cenex oil, I just think think there may be some kind of a fluke here. Don't really know. Darrel |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 7:17pm
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Never heard of Cenex oil is it some kind of supposed super oil like Amsoil? BTW I use Kendall diesel grade 15W-30 in every engine I own and never have had a problem that was oil related I know of. |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 7:54pm
Thinks you need to tighten up your drain plug... or the filters...   Hope something that simple., ------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 9:18pm
| I'm with Stan IL&Tn. They will never tell you they changed suppliers. MACK |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 9:55pm
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First of all, sorry this chizzle is happening to you. i know you and the boy and the whole family have had a tough spring, summer. Second, this just seems too much of a coinkadink to me. Two tractors previously running just fine, drop oil, change filter, new oil, same brand and weight, and, burning oil...a lot of oil. I would not change oil on anything else with the stuff you have in stock right now. If you have any new oil left of the stuff, I wonder if it could be analysed. Its just hard to believe that these conditions could develop in two engines simultaneously and so quickly...Glazed cylinders causing a blow by condition? I guess you could stick a scope in each cyl and see if there is any harring bone left, or if they are glazed up, or scored up. Otherwise, I think I would pull the pans, have a look see...Id check some bearing clearances, you can then see what the bearing material and the crank are looking like and what if anything is in the bottom of the pan. If that doesnt seem to get to the problem, I guess I'd have to take the head off, see what was happening there and on the valve train...Time to check valve clearance? Id run the tractor without the valve cover on and see how much oil is getting up there...If for some reason there is a bunch of oil getting to the top end, drowning it a bit, as a result of the new oil and filter cleaning passageways better...?But both wear out and start burning oil at the same time? I didnt watch every season of Matlock for nuthin...sumthin is up here... As far as the rest of it goes, I'm not gonna tell ya what oil to use, not the question you asked... I present these ideas as they all have some basis in my experience. For example a neighbor had a 4440. He had changed oil/filter with the JD genuine stuff. The tractor, which was not new, began to burn oil, but did not seem to lose much if any power. The owner was a solid, long term JD man, started with a D. They sent a salesman out to tell the man that the cyls were glazed, he needed to pull it harder. He indicated he was pulling a 32 foot deep tillage cultivator/chisel plow with 145hp rated two wheel drive on 20.8-38s and weight/calcium... They ended up taking his tractor to town and "rebuilding" it. I think they took it apart and honed it, put it back together. Or maybe they gave it the Ajax treatment and it quit smokeing... Sorry for the long post, take care. HTH, Trev.
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Posted By: TramwayGuy
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 10:13pm
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"Never heard of Cenex oil is it some kind of supposed super oil like Amsoil?" Cenex is a brand name, origin was Farmers Union Cooperative. CENtral EXchange. Have their own refinery in Minnesota. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 6:09am
| I hope the manager or representative supports your investigations. It is a hell of a coincidence. I hope they support you and you figure it out and it isn't too bad. Good luck. |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 7:32am
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I would stop running them now. Then service one with Shell Rotella and see what happens. There is something amiss here. Just what I would do on the oil, use something else but change one out and run it. I run 15W40 even in my little three jug yanmar and it is very happy with it. Never add any. What a bummer. An update down the rod would be educational. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 7:55am
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A story about Rotella T.A friend of mine runs several big trucks couple dozers,trackhoe etc.He had always run the Kendall 15W-40 diesel grade oil,but he got a good price on a large quantity of Rotella T 15W-40.First truck he tried it in was a dump truck, that morning the driver calls back and says the truck has lost oil pressure.So my friend gets a filter and the Kendall oil he'd been using goes down and changes the oil back to Kendall in the dump truck on the side of the road.Fires the truck up oil pressure is back and ran fine after that. As he said he's not real sure what happened but he'll never use the Rotella T again. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 8:07am
| I am definitely going to put something different in, and see what happens. I'll go to my grave swearing that there was something wrong with that lot of oil. A little guy like me doesn't have a snowballs chance in hell of getting anywhere with cenex as far as any retribution. But like I stated above, the super lube that I run in my diesel engines is top notch. Brother in law bought an L2 about 10 years ago from a neighbor. Got it cheap, because the neighbor said it would burn a gallon of oil in a long day, and he had been using the same chevron oil in it as the owner prior to him had been using in it. We switched it to cenex super lube, and never added another drop of oil to it. Darrel |
Posted By: tractorman
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 8:53am
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Just a thought from days gone by Have we forgotten the experience of when high detergent oil was introduced and what happened to the old motors that had run their lives on 30 weight non detergent ? my 53 plymouth that did not burn oil sucked oil like an alcoholic after my service station manager said now is the time to switch to 10w - 30, my guesss is away went all the sludge that plugged all the leaks . ------------- Play on 38 B 49 WF , working on D14, D15 B10, Bee 12 B110. use 185 and 190 |
Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 9:06am
Or... dissolved the sludge and now it's being circulated; tearing things up. Sludge in a non-detergent engine is some nasty stuff. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 9:33am
| I don't think sludge was the issue. The CENEX rep obviously was not qualified to make any recommendations about which oil to use. I doubt he bothered to open the owner's manual and check the manufacturer's recommendation. Alas there are so many of those shade tree 'experts' floating around who represent themselves as the last word - knowing more than the manufacturer. Then again the oil may have had nothing to do with the failure. The engines may have reached the end cycle of their life. |
Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 11:34am
| If you are going to do oil samples I would send them some where else besides cenex, if there is a problem with the oil not always sure you would find out about it. |
Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 9:12pm
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I would recommend Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne,Indiana. They will send you a kit for free to mail the sample to them. I used them to find out what I was dealing with on my 175 before I rebuilt the pump and injectors. They furnish very thorough and precise test results. Test cost me $27 and was worth it if just to find out that there wasn't any anti-freeze/water in the sample. Good luck. ------------- It's the color tractor my grandpa had! |
Posted By: 49WF
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 9:32pm
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Darrel, get a oil sample bottle from Butler Machinery, should be under 20 buck's. Top notch oil lab. ------------- More than I need |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 9:34pm
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We have been using Rotella T in our diesels since I can remember. Never had any issues, My guess is he had a bad filter on the dump truck, I had that happen to me in a Chevy Astro van. Changed the oil with the same oil but a different brand filter. Oil change special came with a free Fram oil filte. Big mistake, only 15 lbs pressure on start up. Removed it, put a new AC Delco filter on it the next day. Solved my problem. They sent the filter to Fram and promised to get back to me. Guess what, never got a call. I to hope the manufacture is honest with your samples. Back to the origional post my guess would be as others have said, formula change or a flaw in production possibly. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 8:37am
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I have never heard of Cenex motor oil either, but I'm on the other side of the country here in New Joisey. Kinda strange though that two engines all of a sudden started using oil. I've always run Cam 2 10w40 or 15w40 in all my Tractors and equipment and never had a problem so far. I have seen engines use oil if they were originally on straight weight oil then switched over to multi-grade. The multi-grade does a good cleanup job internally, but also could result in ring seal etc down the road which would lead to oil usage eventually.... Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 11:44am
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I would get a sample from both engines and have that tested before doing anything. If you change the oil they can say anything to get out of trouble. Remember how long it took to get Shell to admit wrong doing back when that happened to their oil? Or was that Penzoil? ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: ocharry
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 7:37pm
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So Darrel...I'm just curious .... How long after the oil change did the motors start this oil drinking??? Was it a few hours or a couple days???? Did they start smoking...liked they were burning it??? Or are they bleeding somewhere??? Like rear main seal or front seal..valve cover??? Think maybe the valve guides and seal???? That sure is a lot of oil getting away from them.....and both after an oil change....hmmm....I just am curious Ocharry |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 8:50pm
| They started using oil immediately. The D19 is being used to run a generator at a well to pump water for some cows. When we shut it off one day, we dropped the oil and changed it and the filter while it was still hot. Checked oil next day before we started it, and it was spot on full. Ran it for about 2 and a half hours, then shut it off. Next time we needed water pumped, we checked the oil before starting it, and it was almost down to add. Probably used it about four or five times since, and each time it was down almost a quart. With the one ninety gasser, we've raked with it three or four times since the oil change, and it has used about a quart every 3 hours. Neither tractor leaks more than a few drips. They aren't smoking. Both still run like Champs. I dunno. Darrel |
Posted By: EPALLIS
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 9:22pm
| Certainly an unfortunate story. I've used Pennzoil 10W30 for eternity in all my A-C's. No issues yet... |
Posted By: ocharry
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 9:41pm
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Hmmmm...dont make any sense..I mean if they aren't smoking and they aren't leaking.... Got to be burning that much oil....that's a lot for length of run time Have you ever smelled the oil...like when you check it before a run...rub the oil on you finger from the dip stick and smell it??? How is the viscosity?? does it feel like new oil....heck its getting a new oil change every few hours When you put the oil in new...did it seem like it always did...new oil...thinner..thicker.. I have heard...back a few years...lots of fews here...that changing brands could make a motor start using oil...but you didn't do that....you put the same oil in them they have always had....unless the oil company has changed the oil chemistry This is a strange one.....and no smoke???? Even when they get warmed up?? And it sure dont sound like you are working them hard...if they aren't leaking then I would think the oil has to be getting by the rings for some reason....and just changing the oil wouldn't do that...to both motors at the same time....only thing I see common is the oil....unless the oil control ring has collapsed.... On all the cylinders on two different motors...and I ain't buying that Still come back to common thing between them is the oil I think I would drop the oil..catch some and save it and put some new in and see what happens I feel for ya man...this sucks Ocharry |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 10:19pm
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Had an oil gauge line get a pinhole in it and sprayed out beyond the tractor and misted away in the breeze... Only hint was the cab front lower window started to get a fine film on it. At 45 psi, it only took a little while to spray most of the oil out on the 190. Dumb question, got your filters on tight and all lines secure and no pinholes? Have you changed the oil and filter again? added any Lucas conditioner to them? We added STP at every oil change in an old D17 since 1968 and never took the engine apart except to take the head off to put in exhaust valves... just a few years ago. Quart every couple hours... if it was burning the oil, it would be smoking I would think.... No oil on the ground to speak of, then your spraying it. ------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: ocharry
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 10:45pm
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Got to be going somewhere...but on 2 motors at the same time... Spraying on one. OK I could buy that..but 2 ...I would be looking them both over with a fine tooth comb I still say common thing is the oil...something going on there I think I been reading this for a couple days...but I changed the oil in my 170 today and I got to thinking about it....lol...me thinking sometimes ain't so good Ocharry |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 1:22am
| sounds like you better clean out the shed so you can do OH's thru this winter? (poke,poke,poke) |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 1:29am
I'm freaked out, and you're poking that damn stick at me. Darrel |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 7:20am
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is it possible that the oil filters could be the culprit? Bad gaskets? Had that happen on a 59 chev one time. I had put a 327 into it. Had a SMALL V in the gasket that you couldn't see unless you looked for it. Was blowing oil out of that. ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 7:53am
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You have real mystery on your hands, but I think the oil is the culprit, and some changes were made that you will be lucky to figure out. It may have been too much of something or not enough of something added on purpose or accidentally. Most of the containers have some date or batch numbers that can help you find something different. You might try some how to find an 'old stock' batch of the original oil that is in a back room somewhere and give yourself a chance to test things that way. Or maybe a different newer batch. There is a lot of older equipment running that cannot get the exact same oil that it ran on when new. I have been taught to believe that excessive oil consumption indicates some mechanical failure of clearances or sealing issues. But also things I have seen say otherwise. 30 years ago the lease truck fleet I worked in went from 15000 mile oil change interval to 10000. This was done because many units were using almost no oil in the first 10000 and 5 or more gallons in the final 5000. 11 gallons would change the oil and filters. Now some fleets run 50000 mile oil change intervals with smaller crankcases and million mile service without overhaul. I hope you can find some oil that works like before. It may be a brand you are using now or one you have to search and find.
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Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 8:44am
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All lubricant companies have kept their heads down since changing formulas mandated by the government, as they don't want to draw attention to the changes. Mandated by Uncle Sam, effective last December and now that most old stock is used up the "newer formulas" are hitting the shelves heavily. Without getting into brand names and what is better for what applications, you now must do some serious research to find out what works best for you, period.
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Posted By: SLee(IA)
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 9:06am
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Darrel, I have been using Cenex TMS 15-40 in everything from our diesel tractors and combine to my gas WD45 and our 1997 chevy pickup with the 454. Nothing uses oil including a 7030 and 190xt pushing 10,000 hours. It's great stuff. The 15-40 is a petroleum oil. That being said, in our newer cars I use auto gold 5w-30 because that is what they call for in the manual. The 5w-30 is a synthetic blend oil. I wonder if the straight weight oils were all petroleum oils and maybe now they switched to a synthetic blend also. I have heard that switching to synthetics in older engines causes problems. I have no idea if that is true or not. I hope you can get some answers. Hang in there and good luck. Steve
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Posted By: ocharry
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 8:02pm
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I would really like to know what your plans are Darrel..what your next move might be??? You really got me thinkin on this one...yep head is hurting too But really I am interested in what you find Ocharry |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 10:05pm
| Well Ocharry, I think that I am going to try some cenex 518, multi viscosity oil. I haven't lost my faith in cenex oil yet. It is not fly by night oil. They own their own refinery, and package oil for many different companies. My brother used to manage a cenex station (until he died of cancer two years ago) and he had recommended that I use the 518. When the cenex here in my town didn't have the 518, he also agreed that the straight 30 auto gold should be alright. My thoughts when I first put in the 30 weight was that if the tractor started using oil, it was coming out immediately, and I was going to get some of the 518 from wherever I had to go to, to get it. But the first tractor I put the 30 weight into didn't have any adverse affects, and each aditional tractor that I put it into worked out well, too. So why would have I wanted to mess with success. .? I'll keep you posted. Darrel |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 10:37pm
| As was mentioned, check your filters. That definitely was the problem when the guy had to go out on the road to change his oil and filter and we had them come in once in while with filter failure, change it out, top off the oil and they were good to go. I overhauled a old Ford 292 one time and the fellow wanted to use this cheap oil filter he had. Oil pressure wouldn't come up on start up so I changed the filter to a good one and pressure ran 60# hot. I've always recommended Lubri-Finer filters where available. I presume they still make Cat's filters. If you pull the valve covers and start the tractor be sure and put some kind of guard around the top of the engine because if the filter is messed up it'll usually flood the top of the engine and make the engine drink oil like drunken sailor. No use messing up your nice clean floor. LOL |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 11:42pm
I was wondering what Superlube compared to Cenex 518 so Googled it, looks like the 518 is straight oil,
SuperLube 518 is a
field-proven, heavy-duty diesel oil engineered for high output diesel
and old SR gasoline engines operating under severe conditions. In field
tests, SuperLube 518 demonstrates excellent Total Base Number (TBN)
retention. This means that the detergents and dispersants are working
hard throughout the entire drain interval to protect your engine.
------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 11:47pm
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There was a discussion here on the forum several years ago about oils and I took the advice to run synthetic in engines that I run in cold weather. I now use Mobile 1, 10w40 in my Cat powered Freightliner. It does seem to start easier and the oil pressure comes up quicker although it doesn't run quite as high pressure as the 15w40 I used to run. Time will tell on how it lasts in the long run. ------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2017 at 8:09am
| Some interesting information there, John. Looks like the super lube is good for gas engines, too. Seems like I had a discussion with both, my brother and local cenex guy about using super lube in my gas tractors, and both of them had a good reason to NOT use the super lube in my gas tractors. I can't remember now what that reason was. Kind of hard to ask my brother now. Maybe the local guy can refresh my memory. Thanks John. Darrel |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2017 at 8:14am
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I've read if you have an older engine and it has solid lifters then you should be using a diesel grade oil in that engine because it has more anti wear properties than oils for gas engines these days.And if there are no obvious leaks with that much oil loss then its got to be going out the stack. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 7:36am
| Could it be volatilizing and going out the breather as vapor? |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 7:48am
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We have used Superlube TMS 15W-40 on our farm since 1992. The only overhauls we have done were engines purchased with known problems or injector failure burning up a piston ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 8:21am
| DUDE.....you are running out of motorized equipment! |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 9:03am
Cal, do you run that in your gas tractors, too.....? Or don't you have any gas units around there....? |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 9:13am
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everything except the wifes minivan and my parents cars. the gas tractors don't get used much though ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 9:31am
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I also use superlube 15 40 in everthing on the farm . small engines ,trucks gas and diesel , and all tractors and have had no complaints. My wife's Toyota uses a thin oil and that is the only one that does not get superlube. I hope you figure out your problem.let us know how it goes. Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |