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CrestonM 
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Location: Oklahoma
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 Topic: Best way to split a B?
Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 3:57pm |
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What's the best way to split a B behind the engine? Supporting the rear won't be a problem, but how do you do the front half without the wheels maybe turning left/right and the whole thing falling? I'll be separating it to get to the oil pump.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 4:03pm |
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If you have an overhead steel beam, it's child's play. Put B under beam, use 2 chain hoists, block front spindles with 4by4 or similar to keep wheels from turning( that works with D-14). for proper support use SOLID wood blocking NOT 'concrete blocks'. go slow and steady ...
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Location: United States
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 4:05pm |
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I haven't done a b but on the d serries you just make up some wooden wedges out if blocks and wedge both sides of the front axle to the counter weight so it can't wiggle.
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Dan73
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 4:07pm |
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I put a heavy duty floor jack under the transmission for a 3 point support on the rearend then roll it back away from the front which is blocked and wedged to stay in place.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 4:09pm |
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I use an overhead beam like jay said.. lift the motor and just let the wheels roll forward.. peg with wedges......... You can also use an engine hoist in front of the radiator and roll the axle and motor forward on that.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 4:11pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 4:38pm |
When we split them we used a wheeled crane. We would hitch to the valve cover and roll the front forward. Sometimes, in the field, we had to get "creative". Best I can remember is we tiel the engine to a strong tree branch and walked the rear away. Little tougher than on a level floor with a crane but it worked In any event you do not have a lot of weight to handle. Take good care of my favorite. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Ted in NE-OH
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 5:56pm |
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I have not tried this, but will. How about 4 pieces of 5/8" running thread to replace the bolts and just separate the two halves a few inches, just enough to get to the oil pump. Comments please.
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CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Hubnut
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:34pm |
I lift the front of the tractor, then attach these angle plates to the torque tube. I use an engine hoist to pull the motor. 
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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WF owner
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Location: Bombay NY
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:39pm |
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I am lucky enough to have a four post auto lift. I put it up enough to walk under without ducking and use some old tractor frame rails for cross pieces and come-alongs with chains.
Once it's split, I have several 12" x 16" x 3" (thick) wooden blocks that I use for safety.
This is by far the best way I've found for supporting a tractor.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:27pm |
Steve, what is the chain hooked onto in that pic? Does it hook to a bolt?
And Bill...when you say hitch to the valve cover...how do you do that? I would think that cover would bend easily.
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Dan73
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:30pm |
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Pull one of the valve cover bolts stick the bolt through the chain and put it back the bolt is taking the load not the valve cover.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:34pm |
In my photo above there is a 2 x 2 angle iron laying on top of the valve cover. It bolts on with the 2 or 4 valve cover STUDS ( older covers had only 2 studs, new have 4) ... the angle has 3-4 different holes for lifting. In the photo I have lifted at the rear of the angle ( rear of the motor) and then roll forward on the tires.... when the axle is removed, I use a lifting hole in the center of the 2 x 2 angle to level lift the motor by itself................ and yes, the two small 3/8 studs on the valve cover are plenty strong to lift the motor and front end.
Edited by steve(ill) - 15 Sep 2016 at 8:36pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:41pm |
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My valve cover is already off. It has 2 studs. So just bolt a piece between the 2 studs, make a hole to hook the chain to, and lift?
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wfmurray
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:06pm |
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When I split mine I did like some of the above but to spread it apart I put pto and trans in gear and turned pto with visegrips. Moved easy.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:07pm |
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Yes, I have 3-4 holes in the angle iron for lifting either end or center... I have a short 12 inch chain looped over the angle and both sides connected to the angle with one bolt... and the chain fall hook into that small chain loop... you can see 3-4 chains the (bad) photo because I have a 3/4 ton chainfall up in the rafter above and you can see the lift and pulling chains side by side. SEE PHOTO IN NEXT POST
Edited by steve(ill) - 15 Sep 2016 at 9:21pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:17pm |
Edited by steve(ill) - 15 Sep 2016 at 9:18pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:25pm |
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Thanks, Steve! That provides a clearer picture.
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 11:06pm |
Your sleeves...give the to me...or suffer my wrath!!  LOL - Creston the fastest way to split open a tractor!  Mike
Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 15 Sep 2016 at 11:07pm
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 11:13pm |
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Creston...ain't you gots a friend with a strong back and a weak mind, puts him on his hands and knees under it when you unbolt it! and don't ask me...i'm busy!
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 11:15pm |
I have a friend down the road that told me back in the day, he and his brother rebuilt a B and WD45, and when the engines were done, one would hold the engine up to the tractor while the other got the bolts started. Whew!!!
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 11:23pm |
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I spose yer gonna brush paint that tractor too when yer done huh?
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CrestonM
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 6:46am |
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Nah, It's already got pretty good paint on it!
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Dick L
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 8:03am |
(Back in the day)  I would switch engines between two B's in an afternoon!
My mowing tractor started spitting oil out the breather so I took the engine and off one I had just rebuilt and switched it with the one that needed work. Id did get dark before I got it back ready to mow. It was lunch time when I started. No help! No one would be able to help because I would keep telling then to get out of my way.
Did it like this.
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Dan73
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 8:19am |
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Silly question but wouldn't it have been easier to move the mower? Great photos of how you did it I never take enough photos.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 8:19am |
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I just split my CA Monday I should have taken pictures. Block the rear And use a Cherry picker attached to the valve cover bolts. that is hoe the manual show to remove the engine. put a plank across the cherry picker legs and block from that to the wishbone. eveny thing will roll forward. since the engine is hanging it wont tip and the wish bone will stay in place as the block will roll with the cherry picker. I split mine Monday night after work. repaired the clutch fork and reassembled it Tuesday morning. I would have been done earlier but I lost fuel line clamp and ran out of small cotterpins so I had to wait till noon to finish it. I use a cross block stack of 6X6's with a 2X12 in the middle. make sure you block both rear tires or the rear end can move on you.
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Dick L
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 11:37am |
 Dan73 wrote:
Silly question but wouldn't it have been easier to move the mower? Great photos of how you did it I never take enough photos. |
Would have been if the one had not needed transmission work.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 11:47am |
Dakota Dave, I'm trying to picture this, but I don't really understand what you mean by blocking the wishbone. Dick, it doesn't look like you used and kind of blocking on the wishbone, so maybe it isn't needed?
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Dick L
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 12:03pm |
CrestonM wrote:
Dakota Dave, I'm trying to picture this, but I don't really understand what you mean by blocking the wishbone.Dick, it doesn't look like you used and kind of blocking on the wishbone, so maybe it isn't needed?
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I used three jack stands. Two under the drawbar so the rear tires were just off the ground and on under the torque tube.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 12:06pm |
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Thanks Dick, but I was talking about the engine half of the tractor.
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