7050 air conditioner

Well the bad news! If the Compressor puked, you need at a minimum the following new

Conpressor/Clutch, and Dryer You will need to obtain, or borrow a good quality flush canister, a good vacumm pump, and if you don't have a decent set of gauges too.

Anyway, you must under no uncertain terms flush the system after a compressor failure, otherwise the new stuff will fail shortly. This will be an effort on this tractor, because the only really right way to do it, is to disasemble a couple of connections, to get the componants really clean. All the crap that came out of the compressor likes to lodge itself in the condensor, (item in front of the radiator), and the expansion valve. So you need to get the hoses off, so you flush canister's power, is put right where it needs to be.

Something else I would do is remove and wash the evaporator coil (in the roof of the cab) while you are at it, typicall they get cloged pretty tightly.

Once you have everything clean, then you can put it back together, put on the new compressor, and dryer. Something I do extra to prevent seized fittings, in the future is put on some A/C tread sealant, (I get mine from Arazona Mobile Air, search online) Then you need draw a vaccum on the system, for IMHO at least an hour, then let it set, and watch the gauges an hour or two later to check for leaks. This is where good quality gauges come into play, some gagues don't have good graduations on the vac side, or have good sealing valves which is where you will chase a leak, that isn't even in the system you are working on. If no leaks, this is where I put oil in the system, while under vacumm, (I have an oil injection canister also, put about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the oil dirrectly in the compressor, then the rest with the cannister), charge it with R134a, and there you go.

While you are at it, plan on putting in a shut off valve for the heater line, such as a ball valve, or gate valve of some kind. A lot of the 7000 series tractors with A/C problems are really only partly the fault of the A/C system, if the control valve leaks, guess what, you are adding heat when you are trying to cool.

Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7

Ag parts LTD sells everything you would need to fix it. They also have 134a conversion kits. You have to be a dealer to buy from them, but depending where your from I could ship the parts to you possibly. When you get it back together make sure the condensor coil is clean and doesn't have hay seed in it as well. Thats where its getting rid of the heat from the cab and if it doesn't have air flow it won't cool as well.

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jmikeyoung Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 10 May 2011 Points: 42	Post Options Post Reply Quote jmikeyoung Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 7050 air conditioner Posted: 21 Jul 2012 at 7:06pm
	ok its passed hot. and this is the time of year i don't mess with my 7050 because my ac doesn't work. my compressor is shot the clutch has come apart and doesn't have the belt hooked up. i don't know anything about air other than its r-12 and i've been told i'd be better off with 124. so i need a new compressor, dryer and lines? or what because after the first week or so of june windows don't cut it any more

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Orange Blood Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053	Post Options Post Reply Quote Orange Blood Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jul 2012 at 8:04pm
	Well the bad news! If the Compressor puked, you need at a minimum the following new Conpressor/Clutch, and Dryer You will need to obtain, or borrow a good quality flush canister, a good vacumm pump, and if you don't have a decent set of gauges too. Anyway, you must under no uncertain terms flush the system after a compressor failure, otherwise the new stuff will fail shortly. This will be an effort on this tractor, because the only really right way to do it, is to disasemble a couple of connections, to get the componants really clean. All the crap that came out of the compressor likes to lodge itself in the condensor, (item in front of the radiator), and the expansion valve. So you need to get the hoses off, so you flush canister's power, is put right where it needs to be. Something else I would do is remove and wash the evaporator coil (in the roof of the cab) while you are at it, typicall they get cloged pretty tightly. Once you have everything clean, then you can put it back together, put on the new compressor, and dryer. Something I do extra to prevent seized fittings, in the future is put on some A/C tread sealant, (I get mine from Arazona Mobile Air, search online) Then you need draw a vaccum on the system, for IMHO at least an hour, then let it set, and watch the gauges an hour or two later to check for leaks. This is where good quality gauges come into play, some gagues don't have good graduations on the vac side, or have good sealing valves which is where you will chase a leak, that isn't even in the system you are working on. If no leaks, this is where I put oil in the system, while under vacumm, (I have an oil injection canister also, put about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the oil dirrectly in the compressor, then the rest with the cannister), charge it with R134a, and there you go. While you are at it, plan on putting in a shut off valve for the heater line, such as a ball valve, or gate valve of some kind. A lot of the 7000 series tractors with A/C problems are really only partly the fault of the A/C system, if the control valve leaks, guess what, you are adding heat when you are trying to cool.
	Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7

Michael V (NM) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2444	Post Options Post Reply Quote Michael V (NM) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 9:52am
	since your compressor is shot,you might check with Abiline machine for a later model compressor conversion.a good Agco dealer might also be able to get this changeover kit also

7060 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Missouri Points: 1148	Post Options Post Reply Quote 7060 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 11:00am
	Ag parts LTD sells everything you would need to fix it. They also have 134a conversion kits. You have to be a dealer to buy from them, but depending where your from I could ship the parts to you possibly. When you get it back together make sure the condensor coil is clean and doesn't have hay seed in it as well. Thats where its getting rid of the heat from the cab and if it doesn't have air flow it won't cool as well.