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7050 air conditioner

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=53957
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 3:07pm
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Topic: 7050 air conditioner
Posted By: jmikeyoung
Subject: 7050 air conditioner
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2012 at 7:06pm
ok its passed hot.  and this is the time of year i don't mess with my 7050 because my ac doesn't work.  my compressor is shot the clutch has come apart and doesn't have the belt hooked up.  i don't know anything about air other than its r-12 and i've been told i'd be better off with 124.  so i need a new compressor, dryer and lines?  or what  because after the first week or so of june windows don't cut it any more 



Replies:
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2012 at 8:04pm
Well the bad news!  If the Compressor puked, you need at a minimum the following new
Conpressor/Clutch, and Dryer  You will need to obtain, or borrow a good quality flush canister, a good vacumm pump, and if you don't have a decent set of gauges too.
 
Anyway, you must under no uncertain terms flush the system after a compressor failure, otherwise the new stuff will fail shortly.  This will be an effort on this tractor, because the only really right way to do it, is to disasemble a couple of connections, to get the componants really clean.  All the crap that came out of the compressor likes to lodge itself in the condensor, (item in front of the radiator), and the expansion valve.  So you need to get the hoses off, so you flush canister's power, is put right where it needs to be.
 
Something else I would do is remove and wash the evaporator coil (in the roof of the cab) while you are at it, typicall they get cloged pretty tightly. 
 
Once you have everything clean, then you can put it back together, put on the new compressor, and dryer.  Something I do extra to prevent seized fittings, in the future is put on some A/C tread sealant, (I get mine from Arazona Mobile Air, search online)  Then you need draw a vaccum on the system, for IMHO at least an hour, then let it set, and watch the gauges an hour or two later to check for leaks.  This is where good quality gauges come into play, some gagues don't have good graduations on the vac side, or have good sealing valves which is where you will chase a leak, that isn't even in the system you are working on.  If no leaks, this is where I put oil in the system, while under vacumm, (I have an oil injection canister also, put about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the oil dirrectly in the compressor, then the rest with the cannister), charge it with R134a, and there you go.
 
While you are at it, plan on putting in a shut off valve for the heater line, such as a ball valve, or gate valve of some kind.  A lot of the 7000 series tractors with A/C problems are really only partly the fault of the A/C system, if the control valve leaks, guess what, you are adding heat when you are trying to cool.


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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7


Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 9:52am

since your compressor is shot,you might check with Abiline machine for a later model compressor conversion.a good Agco dealer might also be able to get this changeover kit also



Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 11:00am
Ag parts LTD sells everything you would need to fix it. They also have 134a conversion kits. You have to be a dealer to buy from them, but depending where your from I could ship the parts to you possibly. When you get it back together make sure the condensor coil is clean and doesn't have hay seed in it as well. Thats where its getting rid of the heat from the cab and if it doesn't have air flow it won't cool as well.



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