43 B Oil Seal

I've got an oil leak coming from beneath the crank pulley on my AC B. I was wondering if anyone can tell me how hard of a fix this is. I've got the gaskets for the job, but not sure about the main seal. I've got the tractor painted and more or less parade ready and now I have this leak to deal with, so if it is a difficult task I might just wait until after the parades. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 So once behind the front engine cover, is it simply and oil seal replacement that I will have to do along with the timing plate cover and possibly generator cover? I guess I figured that was it, but was hoping for that magic fix like some horse hair stuffed around the main shaft kind of fix :) Thanks for your assistance!

The shop manual says you need a special tool to center the cover around the crank. They don't have dowels to line up the cover. Maybe they're not that sensitive to not being perfectly aligned. When I overhauled my CA, I installed the seal in the cover and put the cover on with the engine standing on the flywheel so the seal would position the cover. A speedi sleeve is probably a good idea, but I know mine does have a lip seal and doesn't have the sleeve. 15 years later, it's still dry.

Some come off easy and some don't. I have broken some. Put a thin plate behind the pulley to even the pull on the flange and heat the hub on the tuff ones. Heat the hub, not the crankshaft. Don't forget to check for a second setscrew in the hub. Most have one with a lock nut. I have found where a short allen set screw was used and another placed in on top of the first one. Now I put very little pressure on the pulley with a puller before getting the torch.  If you want to drill and tap the hub it would be the safest way but you might still need heat. I do have one with a pulley that has been drilled and taped. I didn't use the holes. The big three jaw puller was already out and me being on the lazy side I didn't take it back and hunt for the bar puller.

You never forget the sick feeling you get when you brake a pully. Don't take a chance pulling a stubborn one cold.

Bee wrote: I agree with Dick- you need to heat the pulley good and hot.  May need to spray the shaft with a penetrate oil.

That there is a fast way to a broken pulley.
My neighbor make a special puller fore the Farmal Cub front pulley that is pressed on. It has purpose made plates and it uses a hydraulic jack. That way you get an even straight line pull and the plate bares only on the radius of the pulley where it is strongest. Many people have broken the pully then call us for the tool as it is the only way at that point with the outer edges all gone. Problem is i doesn't fit the larger B.C, C pulleys.

Well they appear to be washers anyway, but they are behind the seal. So currently I have the pulley off, then the seal, then two what appear to be washers. I will try to get a picture tonight when I get home, but is there a standard procedure for removing the seal without damaging it just in case it needs to be reused or refurbished. Thanks again.

The picture get clearer. I would guess what you are calling washers is what is left of your seal. The seal presses into the timing cover. Presses means real real tight. I would also guess that it is what is left of the cork seal retainer. That would be a cup type thing with a washer that holds the cork in place. The inside of the cup would have stakes (bent in edge) about 1/8" wide in several places around the edge.

 I was able to swap out the seal with no issues, now waiting for the gasket material to set up a little, then will put it all back together tonight hopefully with no leaks. Thanks again to everyone for their assistance! This site is incredible.