43 B Oil Seal
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34800
Printed Date: 25 Aug 2025 at 12:08pm
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Topic: 43 B Oil Seal
Posted By: shattercane
Subject: 43 B Oil Seal
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 7:30am
| I've got an oil leak coming from beneath the crank pulley on my AC B. I was wondering if anyone can tell me how hard of a fix this is. I've got the gaskets for the job, but not sure about the main seal. I've got the tractor painted and more or less parade ready and now I have this leak to deal with, so if it is a difficult task I might just wait until after the parades. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 7:50am
| Better wait until after your parades and just wipe it clean before each event. You will need to remove all of the front end back to the engine block and pull the front engine cover off. Probably only a days work for most if you have every thing there and have done it before. If you have done a bunch so you don't have to do a lot of thinking only a good half day. |
Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 9:00am
| So once behind the front engine cover, is it simply and oil seal replacement that I will have to do along with the timing plate cover and possibly generator cover? I guess I figured that was it, but was hoping for that magic fix like some horse hair stuffed around the main shaft kind of fix :) Thanks for your assistance! |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 9:40am
| Yes. the seal is in the timing cover. Yes you will need to remove the governor cover first before removing the timing cover. If you replace the seal with a lip seal you will need a speedy sleeve. You may or may not have the old style cork seal. If you do have the cork seal it takes two thin cork seals that come in some gasket sets. They have a retaining washer on the inside to remove to install the seal. At first is seems that it will not come out without bending something. Not true it will come out and go back in place. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 10:31am
|
The shop manual says you need a special tool to center the cover around the crank. They don't have dowels to line up the cover. Maybe they're not that sensitive to not being perfectly aligned. When I overhauled my CA, I installed the seal in the cover and put the cover on with the engine standing on the flywheel so the seal would position the cover. A speedi sleeve is probably a good idea, but I know mine does have a lip seal and doesn't have the sleeve. 15 years later, it's still dry. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 11:55am
|
Was a standard puller efficient in removing the main pulley? I noticed on Squids Fab Shop that they had drilled and tapped the pulley to removed it. I am a little nervous that I will get everything tore down, then get stuck on the pulley removal as my shop is in its infant stages as far as tools are concerned. Thanks again. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 12:48pm
| Some come off easy and some don't. I have broken some. Put a thin plate behind the pulley to even the pull on the flange and heat the hub on the tuff ones. Heat the hub, not the crankshaft. Don't forget to check for a second setscrew in the hub. Most have one with a lock nut. I have found where a short allen set screw was used and another placed in on top of the first one. Now I put very little pressure on the pulley with a puller before getting the torch. If you want to drill and tap the hub it would be the safest way but you might still need heat. I do have one with a pulley that has been drilled and taped. I didn't use the holes. The big three jaw puller was already out and me being on the lazy side I didn't take it back and hunt for the bar puller. |
Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 2:02pm
I agree with Dick- you need to heat the pulley good and hot. May need to spray the shaft with a penetrate oil.
------------- Bob, North Carolina 1949 B |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2011 at 6:24pm
| You never forget the sick feeling you get when you brake a pully. Don't take a chance pulling a stubborn one cold. |
Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 8:50am
| Well, I lucked out..as mentioned before, my shop tool supply is limited so no torch yet other than the mini-propane which might have got it red after a few bottles but it came right off cold, with no issues. Now I have the cover off and am trying to figure out how to get the two washers off that are behind the pulley it appears that the piece the washers push out against is part of the crank shaft and does not appear to be something that will slide off. Thanks again for the education. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 9:25am
That there is a fast way to a broken pulley. My neighbor make a special puller fore the Farmal Cub front pulley that is pressed on. It has purpose made plates and it uses a hydraulic jack. That way you get an even straight line pull and the plate bares only on the radius of the pulley where it is strongest. Many people have broken the pully then call us for the tool as it is the only way at that point with the outer edges all gone. Problem is i doesn't fit the larger B.C, C pulleys. |
Bee wrote:Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 9:44am
| No washers are supposed to be behind the pully. More pictures of what you have please? Sounds like a case of someone being smarter than the Allis Company. It does look like the end of the crankshaft where the seal fits is buggered up some. That could damage a new seal trying to get it over the shaft. Needs to be glass smooth. |
Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 12:21pm
|
Well they appear to be washers anyway, but they are behind the seal. So currently I have the pulley off, then the seal, then two what appear to be washers. I will try to get a picture tonight when I get home, but is there a standard procedure for removing the seal without damaging it just in case it needs to be reused or refurbished. Thanks again. |
Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 12:26pm
|
I guess I could be missing the seal entirely...if it actually resides within the cover plate, then I'm guessing that is why I am lubricating the ground. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 1:13pm
| The picture get clearer. I would guess what you are calling washers is what is left of your seal. The seal presses into the timing cover. Presses means real real tight. I would also guess that it is what is left of the cork seal retainer. That would be a cup type thing with a washer that holds the cork in place. The inside of the cup would have stakes (bent in edge) about 1/8" wide in several places around the edge. |
Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2011 at 3:04pm
|
I just got back from lunch and took a look at the cover plate and low and behold there was a seal in there...I must have been hungry or intoxicated when taking it off last night. Now to see if that seal is in my gasket kit I purchased a month back.
I assume pressing the seal into the cover plate and cleaning up the area that it will seat against, then snugging up the cover plate would be the proper turn of events. Or is there a better recommendation? If you were in my area I would have to take you out for a steak supper as this exchange has been extremely helpful.
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Posted By: shattercane
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2011 at 9:16am
| I was able to swap out the seal with no issues, now waiting for the gasket material to set up a little, then will put it all back together tonight hopefully with no leaks. Thanks again to everyone for their assistance! This site is incredible. |