Pulling WD45 engine help

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   I've read a few posts about removing the engine to replace the dry clutch.  I think got most of it pounded in my head (Maybe?)    Does it make a difference if one has a narrow front or wide font tractor? I did not find that covered in what I had read.
  I'm not removing the side channels.  I have a wide front.   Your help would be much appreciated.  

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bigstone Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 15 Feb 2016 Location: minnesota Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote bigstone Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Pulling WD45 engine help Posted: 17 hours 36 minutes ago at 10:40am
	I've read a few posts about removing the engine to replace the dry clutch. I think got most of it pounded in my head (Maybe?) Does it make a difference if one has a narrow front or wide font tractor? I did not find that covered in what I had read. I'm not removing the side channels. I have a wide front. Your help would be much appreciated.

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Allis dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3028	Post Options Post Reply Quote Allis dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 hours 22 minutes ago at 12:54pm
	Hello bigstone. The process is the same for a wide or narrow front. The wide is a little more difficult becasue you can't remove the rear angle iron that supports the front axle, but it's no problem. The oil pan just scrapes that support a little.

bigstone Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 15 Feb 2016 Location: minnesota Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote bigstone Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 hours 60 minutes ago at 1:16pm
	Thanks for that reply. I just removed the radiator. And I thought I had the hand crank rod figured out. No I don't... Do people just cut the hand crank rod off or is there another secrete?

plummerscarin Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3870	Post Options Post Reply Quote plummerscarin Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 hours 39 minutes ago at 1:37pm
	I could be wrong, but I thought if you were to remove the four bolts per side that secure the steering box to the frame, slide it forward and reinstall two bolts in the rear holes in the steering box to the front holes of the frame it would provide clearance for engine removal. May be easier said than done.

SteveM C/IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8565	Post Options Post Reply Quote SteveM C/IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 hours 28 minutes ago at 4:48pm
	Remove bracket bolt guiding hand crank shaft. Pull full fwd and grip with vice grip. You can remove steering shaft support bolt to gain a little more wiggle room. When pulling engine fwd you have to travel straight far enough to get off of clutch shaft then lop engine to side (I don't remember which) to get by steering shaft. It's just as tricky getting back in and aligned to clutch shaft but it's possible. Experience is your teacher. Trying to remove frame bolts will likely twist some off. GR 2 bolts. Seems like there is a roll pin in hand crank shaft by bracket that needs removed to be able to compress spring. Been awhile! Edited by SteveM C/IL - 11 hours 23 minutes ago at 4:53pm