Farm Equipment - Pulling WD45 engine help

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Pulling WD45 engine help

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=207435
Printed Date: 13 Jul 2025 at 4:40am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Pulling WD45 engine help

Posted By: bigstone
Subject: Pulling WD45 engine help
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 10:40am

I've read a few posts about removing the engine to replace the dry clutch. I think got most of it pounded in my head (Maybe?) Does it make a difference if one has a narrow front or wide font tractor? I did not find that covered in what I had read.

I'm not removing the side channels. I have a wide front. Your help would be much appreciated.

Replies:

Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 12:54pm

Hello bigstone.
The process is the same for a wide or narrow front. The wide is a little more difficult becasue you can't remove the rear angle iron that supports the front axle, but it's no problem. The oil pan just scrapes that support a little.

Posted By: bigstone
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 1:16pm

Thanks for that reply. I just removed the radiator. And I thought I had the hand crank rod figured out. No I don't... Do people just cut the hand crank rod off or is there another secrete?

Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 1:37pm

I could be wrong, but I thought if you were to remove the four bolts per side that secure the steering box to the frame, slide it forward and reinstall two bolts in the rear holes in the steering box to the front holes of the frame it would provide clearance for engine removal. May be easier said than done.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 4:48pm

Remove bracket bolt guiding hand crank shaft. Pull full fwd and grip with vice grip. You can remove steering shaft support bolt to gain a little more wiggle room. When pulling engine fwd you have to travel straight far enough to get off of clutch shaft then lop engine to side (I don't remember which) to get by steering shaft. It's just as tricky getting back in and aligned to clutch shaft but it's possible. Experience is your teacher. Trying to remove frame bolts will likely twist some off. GR 2 bolts. Seems like there is a roll pin in hand crank shaft by bracket that needs removed to be able to compress spring. Been awhile!