12v CA?

You can put most anything you want. I've made brackets that fit the larger old types Delco alternator behind the drag link using the factory standard belt. I probably have a couple left. This picture shows it on the D15II engine in a CA.

Although an alternator makes things simple, now that I don't use my tractors as regularly as I used to, I prefer to use a 12 volt generator from a later tractor. An alternator system that sits for extended intervals will kill the battery.

If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

“..An alternator system that sits for extended intervals will kill the battery.”

From leakage through the diode?

The new DENSO is a common replacement for everyone... Also a MINI CHEVY replacement if your using GOOGLE... This or the Delco CS130 would fit best. The are more than an inch shorter and inch smaller in diam than the OLD Delco 10 SI.

This on AMAZON ..............

Edited by steve(ill) - 30 Nov 2022 at 8:37am

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Cap!

As Steve mentioned, the "CS" series Alternator fits with plenty of room on the drag link. Also, the Denso unit works quite well too! I use either Alternator in my 12V conversion kits for the C & CA model Tractors. The Denso has a small 15mm shaft, but we have the pulleys in stock for the 5/8" belt. With the "CS" series Alternator, you can use your Generator pulley and swap it over. Both the Gennie and the Alternator have the same .670 mainshaft. Then you just need one of our Alternator bracket kits and your in!

Steve@B&B

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

I've used the ones from DB Electric. Good units that start charging instantly. Plus they are small and will fit in tight places.

Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD

Steve (IL)

That's a BINGO!!

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Going with a denso on my CA if I get off the couch and do something on it this winter.

Regards,

Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.

Sugarmaker, Having met you, I'm quite sure you will find the time, plus get a bunch of other projects done before the sap starts flowing!

Edited by JohnColo - 01 Dec 2022 at 12:23am

A standard alternator is generally 3 phase. This means that there are three “legs” of the stator that fire in succession as the alternator spins, A-B-C-A-B-C-A-B-C producing alternating current.

6 phase alternators have two 3 phase stators inside the alternator that are slightly out of phase of one another. The two stators fire in succession like this: A-a-B-b-C-c (the second stator is in lower case) Because they are slightly out of phase with one another, there is a cancellation of electromagnetic harmonics that makes the alternator run more smoothly and more efficiently. This allows for cooler operation, more output from a smaller overall housing, and MUCH better durability.

The rectifiers turns the AC current coming out of the stator into DC current. DC current is what is used in an automobile. By passing trough the diodes, half of the AC current is burned off in the form of heat as it is “rectified” into DC current. That heat is what eventually kills alternators. By having (2) rectifier plates, there is much more surface area to dissipate the heat.

Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Dec 2022 at 9:25am

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

re: 6 phase alternators have two 3 phase stators inside the alternator that are slightly out of phase of one another

OK so NOT nice equally spaced 6 phase power.....(6 nice sine waves.....)

it'd be interesting to see the actual AC outputs....

Only power lost in the diodes is the VI losses ( voltage drop across the diode times the current ). Say you have a 1 volt drop at 10 amps.. that becomes 10 watts of power (energy) 'lost' in the form of heat.

one day I'll figure out HOW to get the default font/size when replying ...

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

steve(ill) wrote:

LEs, i probably agree with you... the diodes should stop flow in both directions so you only have a DC flow... two directions you need more diodes so you can get both legs of the sin wave of the AC flow............... i didnt write the post... just copied it off the internet and it gave the " basic idea".

You were doing quite well up to that point Steve; half-wave rectifiers do indeed waste half of the energy (assuming a first approximation) but we use full-wave bridge rectifiers so as to save both halves of the sine wave. Then using the industry standard (which assumes a second approximation) the diodes drop 0.7 Volts each, but they rarely actually drop that much so we go to the third approximation... Tongue

It's been a few years since I got my electronics degree and I probably couldn't pass any tests nowadays so I'll just stop there Smile

The main point is that 3-phase is better than single phase (alternators are more efficient than generators) and 6-phase is better yet.

Golly gee Wally, one simple question and electronics class starts! LOL

I must have done something wrong(or it may be RIGHT) on my 45 twenty years ago when I put the alternator on it. That tractor might set a year at a time without being used, and I've NEVER had the battery drained down because of the alternator.
Maybe I need to sell my wiring diagram so people don't have to recharge their dead batteries all the time Geek

http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Dakota Dave wrote:

... If your alternator is draining your battery you need a new one...

Agreed.
ALL diodes have leakage current, good ones don't leak very much.

My degree is in Biomedical Engineering (fixing medical equipment). Your tractor alternator/battery setup can tolerate a LOT more leakage current than a human on the operating table can; therefore we have sensitive equipment that can measure leakage in VERY small amounts. But is ALWAYS there.

A battery that is overcharged will build up conductive deposits that will discharge the battery much faster than the leakage current through a good alternator. Dirty batteries cause much grief, and the corrosion monsters never sleep.

Most Alternators today don't have the diode leakage that the cheapies had years back. Once in a while you do come across one that will leak down super slowly, and can eventually take down the Battery to almost dead. It's always good to have a shut off switch on the Battery if you're only using a particular Tractor for certain chores and it sits quite often...

Steve@B&B

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

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