Ca hydraulic pump

If I were to order a new rebuilt hydraulic pump for a c a model 1953, and just pulled my malfunctioning one off and put one on is it possible that the problem lies somewhere else or with a direct replacement like this what kind of confidence is in the pump working like new? I have already tried to reset all of the bolts and set screws to get it adjusted and in working order but none of that has worked. Thanks Matt

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 20 Mar 2020 at 3:33pm

I rebuilt mine about 20 years ago and stilling working great.
If it has hydraulic oil and the PTO is engaged the pump should work. If not it must be the pump. Could be as simple as the pickup tube not in place to a broken spring in the pump or a plunger stuck. A rebuilt pump should work well if done right. The one you have mite just need a simple fix.

What is it doing or not doing?

I assume the lift is not working.  What does the oil look like?  If it is milky, you have water which can make the pump stick.  Changing the oil could help.  The last one I had problems with, I hit the pump lightly with a hammer and it starting working.   No guarantee that will work, but who knows.

Have yet to see one could not be fixed for a few dollars.       MACK

What oil Are You Using

I used super 303 hydraulic fluid

Listen closely to what is said above.  I always have to remember that when I worked on the pumps we had all the parts we wanted and the equipment was relatively new.  Now some 60 plus years later lots of things have happened that can cause the problems your are experiencing.  

Edited by Bill Long - 21 Mar 2020 at 2:31pm

The cheaper fluid you used is not the problem. The 303 may not be the best oil, but is better than what came in it XX years ago. Your problem may have come from something that was in the XX year old oil, but changing it will not fix the problem. Take it apart, clean, replace springs, seals or anything else that is worn. Anything stuck, free it up.     MACK

No such thing as a kit for this pump. It only has two O rings for soft parts the shaft seals and they never go bad unless you tear them. Take it off the tractor put on the bench it's best to use something like a cake sheet to disassemble on. Each of the 4 Pistons has a small spring behind them. Each of the 4 plugs on the top has a ball behind it pull the control back part off . Slide out the pins that hold the actuating levers in place and remove the Pistons and springs make sure the springs aren't broke 3 Are the same the 4th is smaller diameter. Now carefully clean out the passages from the piston there are no seals just metal to metal the seats up top and the balls need to be clean and not deformed. Keep track of the 4 little slugs that slide in from the back they need to go back in the same order. There is a spring behind them that pushes against the feel after valve adjuster screw. More than 90 % of these pumps can be repaired by simple good cleaning. The pump Pistons get stuck and the cheek balls get crud in them. I've had 2 pumps that needed a spring and one I had to repair the linkage in the cap it was wore out. I assume it ran a long time without oil as it was all rusty. This pump should have oil in it. I've only ever seen one with rust. Once you get it on the bench an take it apart it's pretty apparent how it goes back together. You can look up the parts diagram on the AGCO parts site.

I'm not sure if this is correct but it looks like there might be a kit from agco?

Ok, so correct me if I'm wrong...
1) drain trans/ hydraulic oil
2)fix pump
2.5)any way to flush system out before I reinstall clean pump to minimize contamination back into pump from transmission/ shared area that may have junk in it?
3) reinstall pump
4)fill with better oil than 303😜
5) adjustments need done again?( Or once the process of adjustments are done before no need to readjust?)
6)start next project on CA ( wide front end and trip loader bucket)
7) brings up another question, if all is working good with clean hydraulic system can adding/ introducing new hydraulic components put bad oil left in old cylinders and lines get into my pump and possibly cause another system failure?( I'm thinking answer is yes but my hydraulic knowledge is minimal)

So to clean out the transmission area you sprayed brake cleaner into housing area once pump was removed through the hole created by removing the pump?
I don't know if I'm thinking about it correct but I'm wanting to remove/disassemble pump and then clean everything else possible so when I reinstall the clean pump gunk doesn't get back into my pump and clog it up again...

Here we are, 3 of hydraulic pump and 1 of the oil I drained out(303 super that was only used about 6 hours to brush hog the end a few hours with a post hole auger)
I'm not sure why but the one cam follower is a darker color then the other three and has some discoloration compared to the others?
Thanks Matt 👍

Great pictures! In your top left photo you can see the hydraulic pump drawbar control unit attached to the pump. I'm having fun tearing it down.