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WC rod bolts

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randy View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote randy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WC rod bolts
    Posted: 01 Feb 2020 at 6:19pm
I am wondering what is the proper way to torque the rod bolts. the rods have been honed to use regular bearings, no shims, and the nuts are castle headed. When i torque them to 70 ft lbs none of the holes line up for a cotter pin. 
The I&t manual doesnt give much help, 
Do i torque to 60 ft lbs and tighten them up till i can get a pin in?
Thanks, Randy
CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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Jacob (WI,ND) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jacob (WI,ND) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2020 at 7:51pm
I don't have an answer for you, but one trick I learned along the way for a situation where you need a castle nut to line up at a specific torque, and it isn't, is to try a different one of your nuts.  They are not all exactly the same, so if you try another one of the nuts usually it will line up with one of the holes.  I would think if your torque is a *slight* bit either way you should be ok too.  We're not building race engines here after all, LOL! But I'm sure someone who knows more about engine building will chime in.
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Rick of HopeIN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick of HopeIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2020 at 8:01pm
I looked at several, posts. Finally settled on 50 ft-lb then lined up the hole with whatever it took. Usually I got lucky but I end up backing up one a little more than I wanted.   Never thought about trying another nut, good tip.
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2020 at 9:19pm
Torque to 50 ft lb then throw cotter keys in trash can. Old technology.        MACK
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Boss Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 7:01am
Don't need the cotter keys if properly torqued 
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IBWD MIke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 9:01am
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Torque to 50 ft lb then throw cotter keys in trash can. Old technology.        MACK
I thought about this when I overhauled the engine for my 45. Block came from a WD, main bolts were 'safety wired'. I didn't think it was necessary but went ahead and wired them anyway. It was interesting learning how to do it and could come in handy  knowing how in the future.
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Rick of HopeIN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick of HopeIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 10:01am
I bought new ARP nuts and was thinking of locktite just for good measure. I have not bolted pan up yet but may redo mine without the cotter pins as some have said. Seemed like if the pin is very far off you either eind up with way too much torque or less than you want.   50 ft-lb seems to be prevailing theory for best torque.
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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B26240 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 3:30pm
I have found more than one of those cotter pin style nuts cracked so you did good in my opinion to replace them with new nuts.
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