![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
WC rod bolts |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
randy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1210 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 01 Feb 2020 at 6:19pm |
I am wondering what is the proper way to torque the rod bolts. the rods have been honed to use regular bearings, no shims, and the nuts are castle headed. When i torque them to 70 ft lbs none of the holes line up for a cotter pin.
The I&t manual doesnt give much help, Do i torque to 60 ft lbs and tighten them up till i can get a pin in? Thanks, Randy
|
|
CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I don't have an answer for you, but one trick I learned along the way for a situation where you need a castle nut to line up at a specific torque, and it isn't, is to try a different one of your nuts. They are not all exactly the same, so if you try another one of the nuts usually it will line up with one of the holes. I would think if your torque is a *slight* bit either way you should be ok too. We're not building race engines here after all, LOL! But I'm sure someone who knows more about engine building will chime in.
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
|
![]() |
|
Rick of HopeIN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I looked at several, posts. Finally settled on 50 ft-lb then lined up the hole with whatever it took. Usually I got lucky but I end up backing up one a little more than I wanted. Never thought about trying another nut, good tip.
|
|
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
|
|
![]() |
|
MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Torque to 50 ft lb then throw cotter keys in trash can. Old technology. MACK
|
|
![]() |
|
Boss Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Greenleaf, WI Points: 617 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Don't need the cotter keys if properly torqued
|
|
![]() |
|
IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3991 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
|
![]() |
|
Rick of HopeIN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I bought new ARP nuts and was thinking of locktite just for good measure. I have not bolted pan up yet but may redo mine without the cotter pins as some have said. Seemed like if the pin is very far off you either eind up with way too much torque or less than you want. 50 ft-lb seems to be prevailing theory for best torque.
|
|
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
|
|
![]() |
|
B26240 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have found more than one of those cotter pin style nuts cracked so you did good in my opinion to replace them with new nuts.
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |