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Clutch Pedal Free Play

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 5:23pm
Just exactly what is the "free play"? Is it from all-the-way depressed(down) and the measurement until the tranny starts to engage ? Or the measurement of the pedal-up from the "up-engaged" position until the clutch dis-engages? This happens to be on a XT diesel that as of this spring, has about 3/4 " of travel between the "up-engaged" and dis-engaged portion Stern Smile . Pretty sure this is not correct, yet the clutch itself does not slip. Just looking for some insight so I can get some "ducks in a row" until I'm able to get back out to the farm.We do have an ITT manual that I hope can't be too bad for a linkage adjustment. Thanks

Edited by FREEDGUY - 22 Jun 2019 at 5:24pm
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Jim.ME View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:06pm
Free play is the pedal travel measured from the pedal at rest against its stop (when the clutch is engaged) to the point where the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers. Sorry its from a JD manual, but it is one I was able to find easily.

Clutch_pedal_freeplay.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:29pm
In short, it's the distance from when you first touch the clutch pedal and when you start to feel the clutch engaging. It's the distance the clutch pedal moves freely, without doing anything. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 7:59pm
Adjust freeplay on a 190XT to 4 inches and as long as the clutch fully releases when clear down, leave it like that..

Edited by DrAllis - 22 Jun 2019 at 8:00pm
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2019 at 8:04pm
Made it out to the farm today and did some investigating. Pedal had 2 and 1/4" free play (made a jig to make measurements as exact as possible) and started turning the bell on the clutch rod until I got to 3 1/2" of "play"; that was ALOT of turning!! I stiil have plenty of threads left to hit the 4"# that Doc recommended but I chickened out until I start up and see how it acts. Any idea of what I can expect=less gear clash when shifting,smoother shifting or neither ? Possibly less wear/tear on throw out bearing? BTW, we do our best to not grind the gears, but sometimes it seems to take awhile for the tranny to slow down/stop to switch gears (always has). The worst shift is from what I will call 3'rd (5/6) to 4'th(7/8) on-the-go so we don't have to start out in 4'th from a dead stop. Thanks for the replies!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:09am
Like the Dr said. It's just the distance the clutch pedal can travel without doing anything. No jig needed, just a tape measure. There is no transmission brake so that's why the gears will clash easier. Takes patience to shift transmissions without a brake or sycronizers. If you think it takes awhile to shift a 190, personally I don't, but try shifting a B or C. They spin a long time.

Edited by Lonn - 24 Jun 2019 at 7:13am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:35am
If you are in a hurry, stick it into LOW gear first to stop things. Low gear turns slower for less grinding. Nobody uses low gear anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 8:58am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

If you are in a hurry, stick it into LOW gear first to stop things. Low gear turns slower for less grinding. Nobody uses low gear anyway.
agree for the most part cept 1st is 5th on the 220 and thats the field working gear.Still bang it in that one as it is the slowest
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 4:39pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

If you are in a hurry, stick it into LOW gear first to stop things. Low gear turns slower for less grinding. Nobody uses low gear anyway.
 
The only reason "I" am in a hurry to shift out of 5/6 into 7/8 is pulling out of the field onto the county road pulling 500 bushels of grain in 2 gravity wagons to get out of the way of "citiots", normally we drag wagons threw the field unless horribly wet. have a BAD feeling it's going to be "THAT" year, LOL!! Thanks again for all input !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:03pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

BTW, we do our best to not grind the gears, but sometimes it seems to take awhile for the tranny to slow down/stop to switch gears (always has). The worst shift is from what I will call 3'rd (5/6) to 4'th(7/8) on-the-go so we don't have to start out in 4'th from a dead stop. Thanks for the replies!!

 If you do your best to not grind gears, you start the engine while it is in gear, with the clutch disengaged and LEAVE it in gear till the wheels are STOPPED when wanting to shift to another gear. It's easier and cheaper, to replace a clutch if you HAVE to slip it a bit starting out on the road with a load, than it is to tear the tranny all apart to fix the shelled off splines on the gears and collars.
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 5:42pm
I made the clutch pedal adjustment about 3 months ago, but sadly just fired up the old gal Saturday afternoon due to a leaky valve stem/calcium issue to get it to a water source to do a MAJOR flushing Confused. I must admit there was much less "growling" (not grinding) of shifting gears between F/R between 2/3/R. I should have looked into this several years ago. Thanks again to all that replied, especially the "DOC".
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