Clutch Pedal Free Play
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=162138
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 7:20am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Clutch Pedal Free Play
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Subject: Clutch Pedal Free Play
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 5:23pm
Just exactly what is the "free play"? Is it from all-the-way depressed(down) and the measurement until the tranny starts to engage ? Or the measurement of the pedal-up from the "up-engaged" position until the clutch dis-engages? This happens to be on a XT diesel that as of this spring, has about 3/4 " of travel between the "up-engaged" and dis-engaged portion  . Pretty sure this is not correct, yet the clutch itself does not slip. Just looking for some insight so I can get some "ducks in a row" until I'm able to get back out to the farm.We do have an ITT manual that I hope can't be too bad for a linkage adjustment. Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:06pm
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Free play is the pedal travel measured from the pedal at rest against its stop (when the clutch is engaged) to the point where the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers. Sorry its from a JD manual, but it is one I was able to find easily. uploads/16335/Clutch_pedal_freeplay.pdf" rel="nofollow - Clutch_pedal_freeplay.pdf |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:29pm
| In short, it's the distance from when you first touch the clutch pedal and when you start to feel the clutch engaging. It's the distance the clutch pedal moves freely, without doing anything. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 7:59pm
| Adjust freeplay on a 190XT to 4 inches and as long as the clutch fully releases when clear down, leave it like that.. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2019 at 8:04pm
| Made it out to the farm today and did some investigating. Pedal had 2 and 1/4" free play (made a jig to make measurements as exact as possible) and started turning the bell on the clutch rod until I got to 3 1/2" of "play"; that was ALOT of turning!! I stiil have plenty of threads left to hit the 4"# that Doc recommended but I chickened out until I start up and see how it acts. Any idea of what I can expect=less gear clash when shifting,smoother shifting or neither ? Possibly less wear/tear on throw out bearing? BTW, we do our best to not grind the gears, but sometimes it seems to take awhile for the tranny to slow down/stop to switch gears (always has). The worst shift is from what I will call 3'rd (5/6) to 4'th(7/8) on-the-go so we don't have to start out in 4'th from a dead stop. Thanks for the replies!! |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:09am
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Like the Dr said. It's just the distance the clutch pedal can travel without doing anything. No jig needed, just a tape measure. There is no transmission brake so that's why the gears will clash easier. Takes patience to shift transmissions without a brake or sycronizers. If you think it takes awhile to shift a 190, personally I don't, but try shifting a B or C. They spin a long time. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:35am
| If you are in a hurry, stick it into LOW gear first to stop things. Low gear turns slower for less grinding. Nobody uses low gear anyway. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 8:58am
agree for the most part cept 1st is 5th on the 220 and thats the field working gear.Still bang it in that one as it is the slowest
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DrAllis wrote:Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 4:39pm
The only reason "I" am in a hurry to shift out of 5/6 into 7/8 is pulling out of the field onto the county road pulling 500 bushels of grain in 2 gravity wagons to get out of the way of "citiots", normally we drag wagons threw the field unless horribly wet. have a BAD feeling it's going to be "THAT" year, LOL!! Thanks again for all input !
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:03pm
If you do your best to not grind gears, you start the engine while it is in gear, with the clutch disengaged and LEAVE it in gear till the wheels are STOPPED when wanting to shift to another gear. It's easier and cheaper, to replace a clutch if you HAVE to slip it a bit starting out on the road with a load, than it is to tear the tranny all apart to fix the shelled off splines on the gears and collars. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 5:42pm
I made the clutch pedal adjustment about 3 months ago, but sadly just fired up the old gal Saturday afternoon due to a leaky valve stem/calcium issue to get it to a water source to do a MAJOR flushing  . I must admit there was much less "growling" (not grinding) of shifting gears between F/R between 2/3/R. I should have looked into this several years ago. Thanks again to all that replied, especially the "DOC".
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