190xt Injector Leak

That rubber piece is just a seal to keep debris out of the injector bore.  The combustion is sealed by a copper washer at the injector tip on a 190XT.  You might want to start by checking the torque on the 2 mounting bolts.  Are you sure it's fuel?  If you pressure washed the area, you may have forced some fluid past the seal and it is now being pushed out by thermal expansion.  Probably unlikely, but I have seen stranger things.

You won't believe it, but it is almost 99% sure it is a valve cover leaking oil. Injectors hardly ever leak down in the bore on that age tractor.

I will see if I can confirm that it is the valve cover tonight, but it would be easy to try that fix with a new valve cover gasket. It probably does need a new gasket on valve cover anyway. So, no need to mess with the fuel injectors just yet.

It seemed odd that it only leaks on the injector side of the motor and only directly above the first and 6th injectors. I see no other oil/fuel leaks at the top of the motor. You would think the gasket leaking would be elsewhere on the motor.

If you look at the picture and the studs used to torque the injector you will see a leak spilling out across the right hand stud. Maybe the valve cover wasn't torqued tightly in those two spots because the return injector lines were in the way?

I will report back what I find. Thanks for the suggestions.

Listen to the Doc. Check that first.

  John Carlson

I start from the middle and work your way back and forth , tighten half way the first time then go back and repeat a final time , I always used HITACK sealant too, ususally works great

I do what Mack says and also before installing I spray high tack on the gasket in two coats letting it dry to a tackiness for each coat. That is how we did it at the Allis dealer I used to work at.

I got the valve cover loose but it appears that I can't get it out without removing the hood? Would there be a trick that I don't know about? I also discovered that a couple of bolts were barely finger tight so surprised it wasn't leaking worse.

Older sheet metal One-Nineties had taller one-piece side panels that could be removed to aid in some engine work. Newer (19001 and up) didn't have these, so raising of the hood at the front with a wood prop might be as good as hood removal (remove all hood bolts first). Air pipe over the top of valve cover and exhaust stack usually have to be removed to lift the hood at the front allowing it to rest at the dashboard.

Lynn Marshall wrote: I would seriously consider the Agco bolt kit for that application. It's a set of shoulder bolts with spring washers that keeps constant pressure on the gasket.

Edited by Orange Blood - 18 Mar 2018 at 3:42pm

Would someone be willing to look-up and post the torque specs for the valve cover? We have to do the exact same procedure. Thanks.

I want to document with pictures what I did on this.  As predicted by DrAllis, my older XT has the higher side panels which means you don't have to jack the hood up as much.  That was good news for me because I have a cab that limited how high I could go.

Here is my starting picture.  Notice that the hood bracket is definitely in the way so I loosed it and pushed upwards.  I disconnected the blowby tube, but didn't remove it.  I also did not want to disconnect the turbo line if at all possible.  So, I thought I had room to pull it towards the front.



I disconnected and removed side panels to get working room.  I disconnected all hood bolts although many were missing.  You can see I put about 2 inches of wood spacers to get the room.



And I pushed up on valve cover and twisted it sideways, pulled it towards the front and out it came.  Notice the two areas that I circled.  This was definitely leaking oil.  Ironically, I noticed the leaks on the other side next to the injectors as leaking worse.  When I cleaned the gasket material off of the valve cover, there was a noticeable area where this was leaking on this side.  On the injector side, it looked good.  I am going to clean up and probably paint the valve cover since it is off, so it will be a little while before I can put it back on.  According to the manual, it says 4 lbs of torque, which seems not very much.  However, it didn't take a lot of pulling on the cover screws to get them loose.  I haven't been able to locate those special screws off of the 7040 mentioned earlier.  Seems they come in different models.

Allis Dave, It may be 3 weeks or more before I can report back on fixing this valve cover and if this stops all of my leaks.  I am going to Florida for Spring Break so may not get this done before I leave.  Hopefully, I will install it correctly the first time, but I have bad luck due to inexperience. :-)   One of the wild cards that might have caused the leaks above the injectors to be somewhat newly acquired, is the fact that I pumped a bunch of diesel fuel into my crankcase oil when I reinstalled the rebuilt injection pump.  One of the side affects is that my oil is extremely clean now, but did this diesel fuel affect the gasket?  DrAllis gave it a one percent chance that the injector is leaking, so there is a chance the injectors are leaking, but he is pretty spot on on his recommendations for me.  I don't want to mess with the injectors either on a perfectly running tractor so hoping the valve cover is the issue.  I am hoping to paint it at some point, but need to stop all of the leaks before I do this.

Dave that is the one!!

As a good rule of thumb, tighten them as if you are using a large screwdriver to do it with, You won't over tighten that way. 

I do one of 2 way. Use breakclean on the head and a rag. Keep scrubbing with a rag until you're sure that you've got it clean.