D10 hydraulic problem

I'm trying to restore a 1962 D10 series two. My biggest problem is with the hydraulic control valves. It has a 3501 Husco two spool control valve mounted between the right side of the seat and fender. It controls the three point hitch and the remote outlet. It also has traction booster. The original valve started dropping a few inches on the three point hitch when you released the lever. It also leaked badly. A guy found a used one for me which held better but also leaked. I replaced what few seals it has, which are basically O-rings, and it still leaked. The major leak is they squirt oil out the breather holes in the caps on the back of the valves. When my attempt failed I took both units to a hydraulic repair shop to see if they could fix at least one. They couldn't tell me why the original valve would let things drop other than maybe it's worn out. But they said rust pitting on the inside of the caps wouldn't let the O-rings seal properly. I tried to buy new caps but parts for this thing are on longer available. I took the caps to a machine shop and had them honed out. This removed the rust but not the pits and they still leaked. I even asked about making new caps and they said it could be done but wouldn't be practical. So I'm at my wits end, my only options are to find another valve in better condition or use an after market valve and re-plumb the entire system. This would do away with the traction booster. Any suggestions anyone? Can these valves be repaired, or is it possible to install an after market valve and make the traction booster work? I don't have much knowledge about this so any advice will be appreciated thanks.

I need 2!

The machinist I talked to said he could make them but it would be very expensive. He didn't give me an exact dollar amount but he said I could buy an after market valve cheaper. He wasn't interested in doing it either. He told me he believed I would still have problems with the valve and it would be a waste of my money.

I've been on Husco's web site to just to see if they sold anything that even looked like this valve. It looked like they into mostly commercial stuff now. I'm sure they would have all kinds of stuff but I have not tried to contact them. I'm not even sure how.

I also got one of mine to stop squirting and the other one squirting just a little by using over sized O-rings and over tightening them. This however makes the levers hard to move and they will not return to the neutral position on their own. This is how I'm using now but I would like to get it right. It would be nice to find a good valve or at least some caps that aren't rusty. D10s are rare and its difficult to find stuff.

Got lucky on my D12 fence row find and the machine shop I use made them to look exactly like the originals. No idea what the exact charges were as he was doing other goodies on this unit at the time (3-4 years ago). Uphill battle if trying to get the old pitted end caps to seal well . . .

Is the pitting at the threads or in the seat for the oring? I was just wondering if you can fill the pits with JB weld and then sand it back smooth so you get a good seal. I haven't seen the setup you have so I don't know just an idea. As the the cylinders dropping there are soo many places a small leak can cause that or a loose fitting it is almost impossible to stop. My system is totally new on my d15 and the lift holds but the curl doesn't.   I am betting it is a fitting loose somewhere on the cylinder lines but I will be darned if I can find the leak.

Valve on left is with traction booster control. Right side is Non-TB

If someone could get me the dimensions of the cap and or a cap I am sure glad to try to make these for you guys. Its worth a try and if it works they will not cost much at all. Spools and caps are easy to make. its the valve body pitting that is hard.  Just let me know. Sam

I've been searching for months for a solution to my hydraulic problem. I talked to a new machinist willing to take on the challenge. He also said it would be to expensive to make new end caps due to the detent grooves inside them. Instead he is going to machine out the old caps and put a sleeve in them. He seems confident he can make this work, and it should work in theory. I gave him the go ahead, after all the caps are no good the way they are. I hope it works.

I have no ideal what the pressure rating on the D10 and 12s are. Anyway this will not effect any lines. He's only working on the control valve, and just the end caps at that. The caps will be somewhat thinner when done, I realize that. That's the only way to remove the rust pits. Hopefully there will still be enough material to do this and hold under the pressure.

I knew it was a dumb idea, but I decided to complete this Charlie Challenge. It was a little bit scary but also very funny. You may find more information about it on this website http://skywritingservice.com/blog/what-you-should-know-about-charlie-charlie-challenge

Edited by GracieLu69 - 27 Jan 2017 at 4:14am

Ranse, for as small as the caps are, a USPS 5.00 box will get them to Tracy. We looked at opening up two I had that leaked on a D12 for potential sleeving but the machinist that did mine made new ones and you can't tell the difference from OEM. He has since passed or I would have you send them to him.
I have no doubt Tracy can make them, and he is even in your state. . . .

What was the cost of the parts? Thanks Tracy

Ranse wrote: You asked that question before Tracy, and I thought I had answered it. Anyway Dwayne's machine shop in Manchester did the work. He had 11 hours in both caps at $35 an hour. He did cut me some slack and charged me $325. That was pricy. It would have been cheaper to re-plumb the tractor with an after market valve. But, I wanted to keep the tractor original and not lose the traction booster system. Now Tracy, I told you, now you tell me, could you have made those parts for that? I ask with respect out of curiosity.

I would really have to look at them. But if I had 11 hours in them, they would have been over double what you paid. The trouble with one offs or two offs, it takes just as much time to setup to run one as it does to run hundreds. 35 dollars an hour is very cheap, I can't work for that. You got a deal for sure. HTH Tracy Martin

Tracy- What you stated above is basically what another machinist told me a year and a half ago. He wasn't even willing to do the job. He was afraid it wouldn't work and he didn't want to charge me all that money, so he said. I work at Bridgestone in Warren Co. and one of the machinist there referred Dwayne to me. They sub a little work out to him every now and then. I think he charges Bridgestone more than he did me, at least I hope he does. He seemed like a good guy, I believe he has a different rate for us old broke farmers. Thanks for answering my question, I'm sure you could have done a good job as well.