Not AC but need engine help guys!!!!

Ok guys, here's the scoop. This may be a little long but I'm desperate to figure this out. And since the engine I'm dealing with is a lot like these tractor engine thought I would try here. I am trying to resurrect a 49 studebaker champion with 33,000 original on it. Been sitting in a barn for 30 years not running. Well after rebuilding the carb, new plugs, new wires, new points and condenser, radiator fix, water pump rebuilt, took the head off because cylinder number 3 had 0 compression, fixed the valve that was stuck wide open. Adjusted the valves to where the are suppose to be and cleaned them thoroughly, new fuel pump and gas line, everything you could think of has been replaced, rebuilt, or fixed in one form or another. Now for the issue. It purrs like a kitten on steroids at idle and through the low rpms. When you go to rev it up or get into higher rpms it falls flat on its face. No power. Cuts out spudders spits coughs anything and everything but run right. Engine shakes back and forth while it does this. This thing has a lot more power than what its showing. Can't drive it any where past 20-25 mph. Has great low end torque but high end is so lame its embarrassing. I have a wedding in 12 days and I gotta get this thing running right. Anyone have anything?

Main jet in the carburetor is plugged. Or the fuel line in plugged so its starving for fuel. I've seen a tractor engine that would only idle for a minute then shut down and wouldn't run faster because the hidden screen in the fuel inlet adapter fitting was clogged with varnish. Wouldn't pass 60 psi air (all the pressure that was in my portable tank that day) and I've seen fuel lines clogged with varnish to give the same effect. And it could be the intake manifold gasket rotted.

Ignition timing could be stuck at idle, though that usually doesn't show up as rough running, retarded timing when it needs it to be advanced, just makes it low on power but very smooth.

Gerald J.

Played with the timing. Advanced in manually. No change. Compression is around 100 on all cylinders. Manifold gasket is new.

There is a vent that comes out of one of the valve covers. This is a flat head engine.

AJ,

I'd still go with fuel, even though you cleaned the carbs twice.  There might still be a bit of rust or blockage in one of the jet passageways, or even further back.  The fuel pump might have a partially ruptured diaphragm, giving it enough to idle on but not run.  Like others have said, on the electrical side, about the only thing remaining could be a seized up advance mechanism, but a timing light would reveal that fairly quickly.

Whatever you find out, please let everyone know. 

The car don't have an actual exhaust right now. It's about 3'of pipe right now. Exhaust was falling off.

I can't do that. If I did I wouldn't be getting married then. Besides you wouldn't want to pay the price she would want.

Tried the gravity with the fuel. Took distributer out and went through it. Condenser was replaced

 Hi  fuel pump is bad

Steve, is that Cat converter used to eliminate the mice?????

Karl, it does have a "weak" spark at the points but how would than effect the way it runs at higher rpms?

Have you actually checked fuel pressure? The way you describe it makes me think lack of fuel. Just for grins and giggles fab up a separate fuel tank and electric fuel pump and see what happens.

If the battery is grounded to the frame, you need a ground strap from the engine to the frame so the spark can complete the circuit.

Not enough back pressure with exhaust pipe?

If the positive side of the battery is hooked directly to the engine block, you should be fine. Then check the coil and see if the + side of it goes to the distributor. It should.
 Now if you don't have enough spark to jump 1/4 inch gap (at the plug) and still make a bright blue spark, you need to fix whatever is causing the weak spark. If you have replaced the condenser, it could still be the problem. New ones now days are pretty junky.
 You might have a problem with the coil. Make SURE it's grounded good to the block. Might be worth a try to replace that too, with the proper coil for whatever voltage you are running.
 Now, a new gas line, fuel pump and rebuilt carb won't do much good if you have blockage in the tank itself. Could be a bad gas cap not venting or you might have some crud in the tank that limits the amount of fuel getting to the carb.