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53' model CA won't start?

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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 8:42pm
I bought tractor 4 months ago that started almost every time within a couple seconds of turning key and now I cannot get it to start I tried pulling the plug out and holding it too ground to see how the spark looked and I've got nothing? No spark at all? I drain the gas out of the carburetor and I never use ethanol based gasoline in any of my small motors we still have a place that sells recreational 90 gasoline so I don't understand why or how anything has changed from when I bought it?
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 8:50pm
Could be points corroded so aren't making contact. Could be cam pad on points wore off so its not opening the points. Could be a broken wire in the ignition primary circuit, or the ignition switch. Could be a failed coil or condenser.

The shop manual I have on line should help:
http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 9:55pm
File the points would be my first guess. Could be a dozen other reasons.   MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 4:14am
Ok, it's been converted to 12v by previous owner but started and ran ok when I bought it 4 months ago and has just sat in our barn out of the weather
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 5:40am
With the distributor cap off and the points on the highest part of the lobe on the shaft check the points gap. You need .020. At the .020 gap and the rotor pointing to number one plug wire terminal, make sure the TDC line on the flywheel is in the center of the inspection hole. Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor back and fourth with the ignition switch on. Watch for spark between the points. When the points are closed just ready to open, tighten the clamp. If you did not see spark check to see if you have power at the coil with the points open. You need power from the switch to the coil. If you did see spark at the points you have a bad coil if you still do not have spark at the plug. If you then have spark at the plug it should start and run if you have fuel since it was already running and not been tinkered with.
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 8:17am
Ok
Thanks guys
Just need to take the time to look into this now with info greatly appreciated...

With no spark on plug electrode while cranking motor over it is puzzling me how it started and ran so good a couple months ago?

Nothing's been messed with by anyone on this tractor( including myself)

I originally just had to get air in tires was main problem ,but now this

Motor was rebuilt 2 years ago so a strong runner with no smoke from motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 8:53am
First, check that you have battery voltage at the coil with the key in the run position.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 11:05am
Ok thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

Ok
Thanks guys
Just need to take the time to look into this now with info greatly appreciated...

With no spark on plug electrode while cranking motor over it is puzzling me how it started and ran so good a couple months ago?

Nothing's been messed with by anyone on this tractor( including myself)

I originally just had to get air in tires was main problem ,but now this

Motor was rebuilt 2 years ago so a strong runner with no smoke from motor.

Welcome and this is not unusual for a tractor that has been setting to have electrical issues. As mentioned file the points. Or if bad replace them. Then set the point gap. close the gap and run a dollar bill through the points. 

Also good to go to Harbor freight and get a inline spark tester. plugs onto the spark plug and the wire into the other end. Nice way to safely check for spark at the plug/s and tractor will run with it in place as you try to start it. 
Good luck. Sounds like you have gas, so that shoukd be OK.
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Mar 2018 at 1:07pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 7:39am
I will assume that you have mice in Ohio, the same as we do here in WI..  Check for wires cut by these vermin.
Sounds like it should be just a simple wire problem or possibly the switch went kaput.
Got a multi-meter? 
1 - Check that you have power from the battery to the switch.
2 - From that switch to where ever it goes. I'm thinking it goes to a solenoid....seeing as you said "within a couple seconds of turning key".

I have had a bad switch before and it acted just like yours.  The key switch was faulty, not making connections AFTER it turned the starter over.  In other words, it wasn't giving power for it to RUN. 

After checking this, I'd then move on to the points and other parts.  The simple things first.
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 2:44pm
I have started to look into why my 53 CA will not start again I've tried to upload pictures but it says the file is too large I'm currently charging my battery to do voltage checks this tractor has been converted to 12 volt DC and has some type of white what appears to be ceramic box device next to what appears to me to be a solenoid that is next to the distributor cap that the spark plugs come out of if any of that makes any sense? If I could get pictures to upload I would be able to show some if anyone can help with that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry in NC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 2:48pm
That box is a resistor that reduces the 12 volts from the battery to 6 volts going to the coil.  It is best to throw that away and install a 12 volt coil.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 2:50pm
Okay thanks for the input I may have fried that white device anyhow it was extremely hot to the touch when I had the battery charger on it with the key turned a little bit so I switched the key and pulled it out now it's cooled down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry in NC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 3:00pm
If you got the resistor hot with the key turned on, check your points.  If they were in the closed position, they are probably burnt.

Edited by Larry in NC - 24 Mar 2018 at 3:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 8:32am
With the key in the Run position 6 volts is carried through the coil so I took the distributor cap off and everything in there looks really clean not corroded or anything.

Now what do I check next?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:14am
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

With the key in the Run position 6 volts is carried through the coil so I took the distributor cap off and everything in there looks really clean not corroded or anything.

Now what do I check next?


Read what I posted above! You might want to print it and take it out to the tractor.

Where are you at in Ohio?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:23am
Ok thanks Dick L

I've not worked on any of these older tractors( didn't expect to have to on this one since it started and ran so good when I bought it)

I may need some additional information as to the terminology your using in above post reply from you

Northeast Ohio

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 3:11pm
Well I'm not sure what I did , but I think main lead coming out of the coil was not making contact because after taking it all apart and putting it back together I now at least have spark that is blue in color and the little bit I do know about Motors is blue is good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 3:13pm
Every one of the spark plugs I've taken out of this thing (4) are gapped differently can someone tell me what the spark plug gap is supposed to be?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 4:17pm
Sparkplug:AC45
 Autolite A-7
 Autolite A-9
 Champion J-8
Sparkplug gap:0.030 inches [0.762 mm]
Point gap:0.020 inches [0.508 mm]
Intake valve clearance:0.012 inches [0.305 mm] (hot)
Exhaust valve clearance:0.012 inches [0.305 mm] (hot)
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 4:12pm
Ok, now guys

What is correct spark plug wire order off top of distributor ( I should have marked them before I took it apart)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 4:44pm
pretend the cap has been turned up and number one is next to the engine forward. the firing order is 1-2-4-3



Edited by Dick L - 28 Mar 2018 at 4:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 7:23pm
I can't upload pictures because it say file is more than 2048kb

I'm 90 percent sure my plug wires are in correct order, but I am unsure of where the points everyone is referring to are?

There are 2 spring clamps that holds black part of distributor cap on( I removed that but all I see in there is a center spring steel contact point...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 8:33pm
after you pull down the two spring clip and pull the cap... grab the center spring contact point (ROTOR) and pull it up.. it sets on a shaft with a pin drive....... then remove the black plate ......... then under it is the point and condenser.
 
open your drawing in PAINT and it will show it being something like 3400 x 2400 pixels... RESIZE that to 800 x 600 and save it....... it will then be make 150Kb and you can upload.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 8:41pm
not 100% same as yours... but watch.
 
 
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 8:45pm
another closeup of installing point and align
 
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:07pm


Here's my plug wire order picture
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:21pm
Wow, thanks Steve
Good info in videos
I'll check what I can tomorrow and update post
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 7:56am
Sorry I just tuned in but in that picture it looks like the wire going to the distributor is bare? That could be a issue if it is touching anything metal.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:21am
It is barely, but not touching anything
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