53' model CA won't start?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148465
Printed Date: 25 Jun 2025 at 5:12pm
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Topic: 53' model CA won't start?
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Subject: 53' model CA won't start?
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 8:42pm
| I bought tractor 4 months ago that started almost every time within a couple seconds of turning key and now I cannot get it to start I tried pulling the plug out and holding it too ground to see how the spark looked and I've got nothing? No spark at all? I drain the gas out of the carburetor and I never use ethanol based gasoline in any of my small motors we still have a place that sells recreational 90 gasoline so I don't understand why or how anything has changed from when I bought it? |
Replies:
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 8:50pm
|
Could be points corroded so aren't making contact. Could be cam pad on points wore off so its not opening the points. Could be a broken wire in the ignition primary circuit, or the ignition switch. Could be a failed coil or condenser. The shop manual I have on line should help: http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf Gerald J. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 9:55pm
| File the points would be my first guess. Could be a dozen other reasons. MACK |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 4:14am
| Ok, it's been converted to 12v by previous owner but started and ran ok when I bought it 4 months ago and has just sat in our barn out of the weather |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 5:40am
| With the distributor cap off and the points on the highest part of the lobe on the shaft check the points gap. You need .020. At the .020 gap and the rotor pointing to number one plug wire terminal, make sure the TDC line on the flywheel is in the center of the inspection hole. Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor back and fourth with the ignition switch on. Watch for spark between the points. When the points are closed just ready to open, tighten the clamp. If you did not see spark check to see if you have power at the coil with the points open. You need power from the switch to the coil. If you did see spark at the points you have a bad coil if you still do not have spark at the plug. If you then have spark at the plug it should start and run if you have fuel since it was already running and not been tinkered with. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 8:17am
|
Ok Thanks guys Just need to take the time to look into this now with info greatly appreciated... With no spark on plug electrode while cranking motor over it is puzzling me how it started and ran so good a couple months ago? Nothing's been messed with by anyone on this tractor( including myself) I originally just had to get air in tires was main problem ,but now this Motor was rebuilt 2 years ago so a strong runner with no smoke from motor. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 8:53am
|
First, check that you have battery voltage at the coil with the key in the run position. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 11:05am
| Ok thanks |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 1:06pm
Welcome and this is not unusual for a tractor that has been setting to have electrical issues. As mentioned file the points. Or if bad replace them. Then set the point gap. close the gap and run a dollar bill through the points. Also good to go to Harbor freight and get a inline spark tester. plugs onto the spark plug and the wire into the other end. Nice way to safely check for spark at the plug/s and tractor will run with it in place as you try to start it. Good luck. Sounds like you have gas, so that shoukd be OK. Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Hunt4Allis wrote:Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 7:39am
|
I will assume that you have mice in Ohio, the same as we do here in WI.. Check for wires cut by these vermin. Sounds like it should be just a simple wire problem or possibly the switch went kaput. Got a multi-meter? 1 - Check that you have power from the battery to the switch. 2 - From that switch to where ever it goes. I'm thinking it goes to a solenoid....seeing as you said "within a couple seconds of turning key". I have had a bad switch before and it acted just like yours. The key switch was faulty, not making connections AFTER it turned the starter over. In other words, it wasn't giving power for it to RUN. After checking this, I'd then move on to the points and other parts. The simple things first. ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 2:44pm
| I have started to look into why my 53 CA will not start again I've tried to upload pictures but it says the file is too large I'm currently charging my battery to do voltage checks this tractor has been converted to 12 volt DC and has some type of white what appears to be ceramic box device next to what appears to me to be a solenoid that is next to the distributor cap that the spark plugs come out of if any of that makes any sense? If I could get pictures to upload I would be able to show some if anyone can help with that? |
Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 2:48pm
| That box is a resistor that reduces the 12 volts from the battery to 6 volts going to the coil. It is best to throw that away and install a 12 volt coil. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 2:50pm
| Okay thanks for the input I may have fried that white device anyhow it was extremely hot to the touch when I had the battery charger on it with the key turned a little bit so I switched the key and pulled it out now it's cooled down |
Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 3:00pm
| If you got the resistor hot with the key turned on, check your points. If they were in the closed position, they are probably burnt. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 8:32am
|
With the key in the Run position 6 volts is carried through the coil so I took the distributor cap off and everything in there looks really clean not corroded or anything. Now what do I check next? |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:14am
Read what I posted above! You might want to print it and take it out to the tractor. Where are you at in Ohio? |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:23am
|
Ok thanks Dick L I've not worked on any of these older tractors( didn't expect to have to on this one since it started and ran so good when I bought it) I may need some additional information as to the terminology your using in above post reply from you Northeast Ohio |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 3:11pm
| Well I'm not sure what I did , but I think main lead coming out of the coil was not making contact because after taking it all apart and putting it back together I now at least have spark that is blue in color and the little bit I do know about Motors is blue is good! |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 3:13pm
| Every one of the spark plugs I've taken out of this thing (4) are gapped differently can someone tell me what the spark plug gap is supposed to be? |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 4:17pm
------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 4:12pm
|
Ok, now guys What is correct spark plug wire order off top of distributor ( I should have marked them before I took it apart) |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 4:44pm
pretend the cap has been turned up and number one is next to the engine forward. the firing order is 1-2-4-3
|
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 7:23pm
|
I can't upload pictures because it say file is more than 2048kb I'm 90 percent sure my plug wires are in correct order, but I am unsure of where the points everyone is referring to are? There are 2 spring clamps that holds black part of distributor cap on( I removed that but all I see in there is a center spring steel contact point... |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 8:33pm
|
after you pull down the two spring clip and pull the cap... grab the center spring contact point (ROTOR) and pull it up.. it sets on a shaft with a pin drive....... then remove the black plate ......... then under it is the point and condenser. open your drawing in PAINT and it will show it being something like 3400 x 2400 pixels... RESIZE that to 800 x 600 and save it....... it will then be make 150Kb and you can upload. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 8:41pm
|
not 100% same as yours... but watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVJA5WSfNuk" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVJA5WSfNuk ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 8:45pm
|
another closeup of installing point and align https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:07pm
 Here's my plug wire order picture |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:21pm
|
Wow, thanks Steve Good info in videos I'll check what I can tomorrow and update post |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 7:56am
|
Sorry I just tuned in but in that picture it looks like the wire going to the distributor is bare? That could be a issue if it is touching anything metal. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:21am
| It is barely, but not touching anything |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 9:19am
|
Ignition voltage can jump a half inch gap at atmospheric pressure but only the plug gap at compression pressure. Bare wires will arc easily. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 3:04pm
|
Slightly off topic but to Gearld's point my dad routinely used a match book jumper (over the plug and holding the plug wire) to help clean fouled plugs. Spark would jump 3/8 inch at least. Not saying that the bare wire is the current problem, but it could use a new one, just to rule that out. I have seen all kinds of bad wires on these old tractors.
Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:06pm
|
Not sure what I did? Yesterday removed Hood to gain better visual of the points Came home today installed a inline spark plug tester, turned key to see what kind of spark would show with newly bought spark plug tester and pop, pop, vroooom! She's running?!? Maybe I just needed to show the old girl that I wasn't giving up on figuring it out... Let run for 15 minutes and ramped the rpm up a few good times to blow out the cobweb's and started 1/2 dozen more times and fired right up!!! Now I need to get one rear tire fixed( won't hold air)one front( same thing) It does kinda sputter every 10 seconds or so, but not bad at all( very slight) |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 9:01pm
| May be timed a tad fast or a little water in the tank, but the sediment bowl should trap that. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 9:07pm
| Added new 90 octane gas( no ethanol) so I dought water, I'm leaning towards timing/ tune up needed |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 6:57am
| Maybe you had spark jumping somewhere and moving the hood stopped the spark jumping? |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 8:37am
That's a good possibility if the wires have any bad spot in the insulation. That voltage will find the easiest path to ground, and a spark plug under compression, isn't the easy way if there is a "leak" somewhere else. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: drobCA
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 10:42am
|
x3 on that ------------- 3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not. |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 2:28pm
|
So now that I have better visual on the point s and everything is still kind of a part should I still take the time to check the.20 Gap in the points? |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 4:04pm
| Or is that not likely cause of my slight sputter occasionally? |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 5:04pm
|
Like a fellow said "No time like the present!" ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 1:49pm
|
Apparently you have the plug wires hooked up correctly. That's no a very good pic to show the plug wires and where they go. For future reference, note where #1 is!! At some point you just might take the cap off and then not thinking, take the wires out to replace them and ,,,,,,,,,,,oops. Sounds like you have a pinched wire under that hood somewhere. Follow the wires from the battery to switch, from switch to starter. From battery to coil to dizzy. Look closely at the wires. Starting to look shoddy?? It's pretty cheap to replace and then you have peace of mind. You've got the right idea, DON'T GIVE UP! ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 3:01pm
|
This forum limits pixle amount uploaded But yeah my original picture of it was entire area and somehow got limited down to that zoomed in area |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 7:07pm
|
Yeah, you have to down size the pics before you load em. Kind of a PITA, but it isn't that hard. Reminds me,,,,,,,,I have a job to do.... ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 7:50pm
| Not hard but resulting picture quality isn't the best, at least with using Android/ Google photos app... |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 8:04pm
|
Are there any tips/ tricks for replacing spark plug wires? I have a new( never used set I bought for my Allis Chalmers"B" but never installed them there... |
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 3:56pm
| Wasn't sure if they would work fine for both tractors ( model "B" and "CA")?same spark plug wires? |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 5:21pm
|
Yes they do. ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |