7020 Gear Grinding When Cold

in my opinion its nature of the beast with cold oil dragging in clutch packs.  If you need to go before its warm enough to shift, start the tractor to let engine warm up a little then, turn the tractor off and put in gear and then start back up and go.  also when using the clutch during operation don't push it down all the way as that activates the trans brake and will wear it out sooner as it tries to stop forward movement of the tractor.  push the clutch pedal 3/4, use the brakes to stop, then depress all the way if needed to shift

Any big units like that, make it a habit of letting it warm up for AT LEAST 20 minutes before moving it in the winter. Now I'm talking 20˚F or colder temps for sure, the colder the longer and it doesn't hurt to let a machine warm up a few minutes even in the middle of summer. It's just a good practice and your machinery will love you for it. Start it up, shoot the breeze with someone or drink a cup of coffee and relax. I let my 200 warm up today at 10˚F for 20-25 minutes before I used it to blow some snow.

my 7020 I have to hold the cutch pedal alittle longer when cold for trans brake to take hold, ive never had an issue with grinding. just hold the pedal down completely for a few more seconds and see if that helps!

If you listen much to 'consumer advocates' with environmentalist-leanings, you'll hear quite a few that say 'the best way to warm up your car is to drive it'... and this is coming from the mouths of people who are absolutely clueless to what really happens inside an engine, transmission, and driveline, what happens to seals, O-rings, and bushings.

Lubricants and hydraulic oils do NOT like being cold, and demanding that they work under the thick side of their viscocity curve is extremely bad for everything, so do the 'anti-environmental' thing- start it up, and let it grumble a while.  It'll take several seconds of running just to get the engine oil circulating, and then a few minutes before that oil has made a full trip through the circuit... and it'll take several laps around before it actually starts flowing well.  Meanwhile (back at the ranch), the transmission shaft is spinning, and that oil in the trans sump is darned near glue... fortunately, the bearings and surfaces are well protected, but it's gonna take a whole lotta working before it gets soft enough to NOT want to drag on stuff.  At the same time, your hydraulic pump is churning, that big reservoir hasn't turned a full circuit for at least five minutes, it'll take a dozen rounds there before your hydraulic valving is even SLIGHTLY compliant. 

If you want it to be quicker in warmup, put dipstick heaters or magnetic slap-ons on the oilpan and trans case, and give it an hour beforehand...  or do what my Dad does... park it in a heated shop... ;-)