7020 Gear Grinding When Cold
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=147460
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 4:15am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7020 Gear Grinding When Cold
Posted By: Blustery Knoll Farm
Subject: 7020 Gear Grinding When Cold
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 8:59am
My apologies for such a slug of 7020 questions. Hopefully I will get through all the "new tractor problems" and stop having questions. I have decided that my next tractor is going to be an 7000 series tractor though, because then I won't have to learn all the little details again about another tractor.
The gear grinding post about a 7060 got me wondering about my 7020. I don't know what's normal, and what indicates a problem. When it's cold, my 7020 will grind gears shifting out of neutral. Once it's been warmed up a while, it shifts fine. Is this just the nature of the beast, or does this mean that something is amiss with the trans brake? I have never had a tractor with a trans brake before.
|
Replies:
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 9:10am
in my opinion its nature of the beast with cold oil dragging in clutch packs. If you need to go before its warm enough to shift, start the tractor to let engine warm up a little then, turn the tractor off and put in gear and then start back up and go. also when using the clutch during operation don't push it down all the way as that activates the trans brake and will wear it out sooner as it tries to stop forward movement of the tractor. push the clutch pedal 3/4, use the brakes to stop, then depress all the way if needed to shift
-------------
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 6:08pm
|
Think they all Doo that.My 8070 PD doesn't play well at start up.....don't much matter outside weather.
|
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 6:24pm
Any big units like that, make it a habit of letting it warm up for AT LEAST 20 minutes before moving it in the winter. Now I'm talking 20˚F or colder temps for sure, the colder the longer and it doesn't hurt to let a machine warm up a few minutes even in the middle of summer. It's just a good practice and your machinery will love you for it. Start it up, shoot the breeze with someone or drink a cup of coffee and relax. I let my 200 warm up today at 10˚F for 20-25 minutes before I used it to blow some snow.
-------------
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
|
Posted By: Blustery Knoll Farm
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 7:19pm
Ok, makes sense. I usually am doing chore type stuff with it this time of year. So, I start it up, pull in to wherever I am loading, then let it idle while I load up. Generally everything behaves normally after that.
|
Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 7:18am
my 7020 I have to hold the cutch pedal alittle longer when cold for trans brake to take hold, ive never had an issue with grinding. just hold the pedal down completely for a few more seconds and see if that helps!
-------------
1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100
|
Posted By: nick121
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2018 at 9:36am
|
My 7040 grinds going into gear, but seems worse once it's warm.Going to replace the clutch cable but maybe my trans brake is worn out.
Blusteryknoll: I'm sticking with the 7000 series also. maybe a 8000 series one day. How is your 7020 working otherwise?
|
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2018 at 11:53am
If you listen much to 'consumer advocates' with environmentalist-leanings, you'll hear quite a few that say 'the best way to warm up your car is to drive it'... and this is coming from the mouths of people who are absolutely clueless to what really happens inside an engine, transmission, and driveline, what happens to seals, O-rings, and bushings.
Lubricants and hydraulic oils do NOT like being cold, and demanding that they work under the thick side of their viscocity curve is extremely bad for everything, so do the 'anti-environmental' thing- start it up, and let it grumble a while. It'll take several seconds of running just to get the engine oil circulating, and then a few minutes before that oil has made a full trip through the circuit... and it'll take several laps around before it actually starts flowing well. Meanwhile (back at the ranch), the transmission shaft is spinning, and that oil in the trans sump is darned near glue... fortunately, the bearings and surfaces are well protected, but it's gonna take a whole lotta working before it gets soft enough to NOT want to drag on stuff. At the same time, your hydraulic pump is churning, that big reservoir hasn't turned a full circuit for at least five minutes, it'll take a dozen rounds there before your hydraulic valving is even SLIGHTLY compliant.
If you want it to be quicker in warmup, put dipstick heaters or magnetic slap-ons on the oilpan and trans case, and give it an hour beforehand... or do what my Dad does... park it in a heated shop... ;-)
-------------
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
|
|