2 14s plow with a B?

I'm sure a lot depends on how the tractor is weighted, depending on the type of soil. I'm sure it would probably pull it in sandy ground. I'm not so sure about pulling it in our blue clay.

Dad pulled a JD 2-14" plow with his C back in the late 40's weighted to the hilt. It really worked it in first gear.   The B has a taller final drive gear which would be a disadvantage over the C.  As stated it would depend on soil conditions and desired plow depth.

I have a 6' belly sicklemower on mine, and nothing else, and it pulls my 2-12 Oliver nicely. Once I got into some really tough soil (we have red clay) and the nose came up about 2'.

I don't think there is enough room behind the axles for sand bags like Dad had on his C for extra weight. He placed planks over the drawbar and filled feed sacks with sand that leaned on the back of the final drives.  The rear tires were filled and had a set of C weights on the inside of the wheels as well as a set on the outside. Front side weights also.  I would guess he was under but close to 4000 pounds total weight.

As most have been saying it depends,
 A good B -125 will pull 2-14 in good conditions.   An older 116 K engine wouldn't pull it except in sand. Dad 's C always pulled a 2-12 Cockshutt plow in stubble or stalks.
We had a plow day back in the spring in some of the tougher plowing ground in our area and to top it off it was alfalfa sod. Two guys showed up with CAs and 2-14 and couldn't pull them, not even a little bit. 2nd gear would kill the engine and they would sit a spin in first. 

The ground is pretty soft, sludged and turned every year. We do a plow day here in Peotone once a year, usually I use a three bottom with a JD A in third gear no problem. I an going to look for a front weight for the axle as my tractor does not have bolt holes on the rim, mine are riveted hubs with smooth disk. Might look for some 24" pie weights, also going with new 45 degree 24/11 rear tires. I suppose I could do safe fill on all four tires, rather not do sodium as it always eats the rims eventually. The JD plow I have has roto hitch so I can back it up also, I rebuilt it about 5 years ago with new bushings and springs all around. I just went out and looked at it and apparently Pops needed a coulter disk for the 820 plow so I am gonna need another disk and bracket.

Edited by Jonny B 1938 - 09 Sep 2016 at 9:40am

I have a mounted 2-12" Wiard plow for my C, and it does well with front engine weights, front wheel weights, and the heavy rear wheel centers that were part of the steel wheel package. With an over bore engine kit it handles the plow fairly well in second gear in most soils. Tight clay and old sod require low gear at full depth. 2-14's will be a handful in tight ground, especially with the B's slightly faster gearing.

The engine is a complete upgrade over stock, the entire inside was completely worn out so everything has to be redone. I am working on some weights right now, hopefully I can get that taken care of. Thinking about beet juice for the rear but not sure if I'll need it, the ground is soft here and no rocks to speak of. Clay is deep here way below the frost line, you gotta dig about 3-4 foot before you hit anything solid.


I might add I have notched disk coulter disks, the help cut a lot better too.

Edited by Jonny B 1938 - 10 Sep 2016 at 8:43pm

Working on two engine weights( I'll have to make brackets for those as I have a stamped steel radiator mount) and a front axle weight. That should give me enough ballast to hold the front end down I would think. The engine weights I am going to arrange to be removable so I only mount them when needed, the axle weight will just stay on there as it is an original option for the early B I have. I wonder how much weight it all is? I am thinking maybe 250 for the engine weights as a pair and 200 for the axle by the pics?

To pull that 2-14 plow, you will need serious weight in the back end. Like fill the rears with windshield washer fluid and put a wheel weight on the left side, probably at minimum.

MMMM I never realized B finals were geared higher than a C. If this is fact why won't C gear combinations work in B finals?
Looking at parts books I see this
   B final drive pinion 14 tooth Bull gear 67 tooth. That's it.
Cs on the other hand had this
   C final drive pinions 19 tooth 15 tooth or 12 tooth
   C finals bull gears   69 tooth 82 tooth or 94 tooth

   3 speed transmission gears and ring and pinion are the same in both the B and C

   From being in a few B and C final drives I believe some machining may be required to make C pinions work in a B because of axle length. Bull gears should be interchangeable.
   The way to eliminate or lessen wheel slip is to add as much weight to the REAR wheels and have the power to pull the weight your trying to pull. Add just enough front weight to keep the Front wheels on the ground. Pullers call it BALANCE.
   Tire size also must be considered. Bigger tires give you more square inches on the ground but will up your final drive gear ratio.
I believe a B can be set up to pull a 2 14 moldboard plow in average conditions. Colters and slat plows are supposed to cut down on the power it takes to plow in tough sod

   Thanks Brett. Always nice to have you add your 2 cents. Where have you been hidin?


Edited by Ken in Texas - 12 Sep 2016 at 5:03pm

WF
You brought a smile on my face with your reminiscing. Man that's lots of i's in one word. Like Mississippi

It don't get real cold here in the winter so I have about a gallon of antifreeze and water in my tires on the Massy 1260 work tractor and my CA puller. No liquid ballast problems in many many years.
Easy to fill method if you have a tank sprayer. Calculate the gallons for your tire size and mix correct amount of water & green antifreeze in your sprayer tank for one tire.. Put your valve stem on a flat tire TDC. leave the core out. Take the spray wand off the hose and slip the open end on the valve stem and pump the ballast in. You may have to let the air pressure out once or twice to get all the ballast in. You want a air pocket in the top of the tire above the valve stem. I run about 4.5 PSI in 13.6 x 24 Firestones on my CA puller weighing 4000#

Edited by Ken in Texas - 12 Sep 2016 at 11:43pm

Would not do it in southern Iowa gumbo soil. Try it where you are and post back. Would scour the plow 1st before I tackled any hay ground.   

That's a neat photo, Charlie. When you raise the plow up, is there not a tail wheel that stays on the ground? My Oliver 2-12 is that way. It doesn't look like yours has the trailing tail wheel though. That would surely make it easier to back!