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Jay Tee 
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Joined: 05 Jun 2025
Location: Maryland
Points: 30
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 Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 7:51pm |
Except one factory manual says to bend the cross arm to shorten the carburetor rod, while another manual from a different year says bend the cross arm to lengthen the carburetor rod - the typos get confusing some times. Anyway - it's running and moving on its own now without any fuss.
Edited by Jay Tee - 03 Aug 2025 at 7:52pm
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CA13414
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Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 351
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 8:16pm |
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Awesome job!
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Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5071
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Posted: 04 Aug 2025 at 1:01pm |
All small engine need to have the carburetor rod just a bit too short. All the Large (201-226) engines need to have the rod just a bit too long. This is the discrepancy you are seeing and not fully grasping.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1229
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Posted: 04 Aug 2025 at 4:33pm |
 PaulB wrote:
All small engine need to have the carburetor rod just a bit too short...
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Well, I do believe that to be true, but I have two manuals that are indeed contradictory.
This first screen shot is from the I&T manual which is known to be unreliable; however, not everyone is aware of that.
This second screen shot is from another manual, possibly an official version?
I have been able to glean useful information from both manuals as sometimes one gives a more thorough explanation than the other.
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5071
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Posted: 04 Aug 2025 at 5:50pm |
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On the whole the I&T (BUT FIRST) manuals should be trashed as much of the information is very general and not as specific as really needed. When in doubt go with what the OEM engineers published.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Joined: 05 Jun 2025
Location: Maryland
Points: 30
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 1:15pm |
This is from the 1960 issue of the Allis Chalmers Shop Manual produced by Technical Publications Inc. and available in several places online. You can see clearly it's for the B-C-CA-RC engine - not the WC-WD engine. Also it says the carburetor connecting rod should be 1/32" longer than necessary.
This next one is from another AC shop manual - the provenance is unknown, but it does seem to originate with AC themselves - this is the correct instruction. Confusing, no?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87438
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 1:28pm |
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that last sentence about having slight tension on the governor spring when the throttle lever is in the LO IDLE positon .... i have fixed that by loosening the square set screw on the LEVER and sliding the throttle rod in or out 1/8 inch.... You would be suprised now much effect, 1/16 inch will make in the carburetor rod or the throttle rod...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Jay Tee
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Joined: 05 Jun 2025
Location: Maryland
Points: 30
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 7:19pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
that last sentence about having slight tension on the governor spring when the throttle lever is in the LO IDLE positon .... i have fixed that by loosening the square set screw on the LEVER and sliding the throttle rod in or out 1/8 inch.... You would be suprised now much effect, 1/16 inch will make in the carburetor rod or the throttle rod... |
You can say that again! I assumed that the settings were copacetic since nothing looked *too* far out of adjustment. Little did I know that these adjustments are far more critical than they are on small single-cylinder engines as found on garden tractors and lawn mowers. I've prudently kept my mitts out of the governor in my big Kubota (my other favorite orange tractor) because it just works and it's buried in the high pressure pump.
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Jay Tee
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Location: Maryland
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 7:26pm |
Changed the watery oil in the transmission and dropped the pans on both final drives. Looks more like tar in there!
And cleaned up with new cork gaskets cut
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87438
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 9:41pm |
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original gear lube was not much better than tar.... and let it set for 60 years and it REALLY looks like tar.. I normally use 80-90 wt... some guys use heavier... some have tried the newer HY-Trans type oils... ( not me !!)
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8467
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 6:35am |
Jay Tee, Nice documentation on your work with the B! Good looking tractor that you have made many positive improvements in too. I will be watching the set up ( throttle linkage ) on our CA when we get to that point. What plans do you have for the B? the sickle bar would work good for mowing ditches. Regards, Chris and Cheryl
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Jay Tee
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Joined: 05 Jun 2025
Location: Maryland
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 7:47pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Jay Tee, Nice documentation on your work with the B! Good looking tractor that you have made many positive improvements in too. I will be watching the set up ( throttle linkage ) on our CA when we get to that point. What plans do you have for the B? the sickle bar would work good for mowing ditches. Regards, Chris and Cheryl |
Actually we were looking for a sickle bar mower for the Kubota, but then this B came up on Marketplace for less that a three-point project mower. We both kind of missed the old CA, so we brought this one home. My plan is to get it and the mower that's on it into good enough shape for regular use. I'm planning to keep it in its working clothes, although my wife thinks it could really use a nice paint job (uff da).
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 7:52pm |
This goobered up steering arm made me sad.
I happened on a good one and immediately installed it once it got here. Now I'm not so sad!
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Jay Tee
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Location: Maryland
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 8:02pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
original gear lube was not much better than tar.... and let it set for 60 years and it REALLY looks like tar.. I normally use 80-90 wt... some guys use heavier... some have tried the newer HY-Trans type oils... ( not me !!) |
I'm using 80W-90 in the final drive housings and UTF in the transmission itself. Things in there looked pretty good once I flushed out all the water and goo with about $10 worth of diesel. It runs reasonably quietly with the UTF - I will see how things go and may replace it with 80W-90 later.
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