Fixing up my Allis B
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206999
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 12:45am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Fixing up my Allis B
Posted By: Jay Tee
Subject: Fixing up my Allis B
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:36am
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I just brought home a B that has lived a pretty hard life. Some joker slapped a WD decal on there at some point - I'm not sure if it was for comedic effect. I have no idea who manufactured the mower - it looks a lot more burly than the ones I've seen fitted to these small tractors in the past.
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Replies:
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:39am
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I bought it with the Marvel-Schebler TSX154 carburetor in bits - luckily I was able to rebuild it and get the tractor started so I could load it.  |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:43am
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The big problems are
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Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:44am
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Governor problems...  |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:46am
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This isn't my first Allis - I had a CA I regretfully sold 15 years ago. The difference between the CA and B is pretty amazing. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 2:27pm
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Where in Maryland are you? Anywhere close to Rocky Ridge? I have some things you may want to get things straightened out. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:30pm
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Middletown area - just south west of you! |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:43pm
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PM sent with contact info. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:53pm
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Removed mag and governor between rain storms...  |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 10:24am
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Dropped the governor housing off with a friend who has an amazing machine shop in his basement. He recoiled when I said I would just glue the pivot post in with JB weld. In the meantime, the radiator needs help.  |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 10:25am
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 7:37pm
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I have an early non pressurized B radiator that may be fine as is, or at least need less work than yours. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 4:37pm
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I gave up on that radiator - the core was full of leaks. I found a reasonably priced new one which I just ordered. |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 4:40pm
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My machinist friend fixed the loose pivot post on the governor housing. I'm really pleased with the result!  |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 4:42pm
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The engine serial number is CR 51181 PA - from what I can tell this is was from 1941. The tractor serial number is from 1948, so it must have blown up and been replaced with the earlier one at some point. I don't know what "CR" means - I thought the engine serial numbers began with either BE or CE |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 6:32pm
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Yes: The engine serial numbers BEGIN with BE,CE, R or CR, The CR engines were originally installed in Power units. The ending letter(s) designates the compression ratio when it left the factory ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 7:40pm
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Thank you! That kind of info is a bit scarce - but at least I know this isn't the original engine! |
Posted By: Phil48ACWC
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2025 at 5:19am
| I have a good hot spark FMJ Magneto if your interested. It came off my WC and has been totally gone through. Works great. $100 plus shipping. |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2025 at 7:02pm
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I was fitting the magneto I got from Phil48ACWC when I noticed the crank had a lot more end play than the 1-5 thousands specified by the book. More like 1/32". I dropped the oil pan, removed the main caps and took a look at the crank, which seems fine to me. Although there was some goo in the pan and the remains of the thrust bearings, everything looks pretty good in there as well. So I'm thinking I might get away with just replacing the bearings. The only marking on the bearings I see is a script FM with 2 51 underneath that. This makes me think this is a stock crank since I don't see the usual 010, 020 etc. stamps in undersized bearings. Is this assumption correct?
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Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2025 at 6:51pm
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Removed the front end since the pivot bolt head blocked the pan just enough.  And the pile of parts is getting bigger.  |
Posted By: Jay Tee
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2025 at 7:41pm
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Had a little bit of time to make a magneto clamp out of 1" flat stock  |