Engine break in oil

I just rebuilt the engine in my 185 and overfilled it slightly with Rotella and put a pint of Lucas in it to keep from scoring a piston maybe. I'm thinking I should probably drain it out though and put some break in oil in to help with ring seating. Ive ran it long enough to circulate antifreeze though it but haven't took it out yet. What's the best break in oil to go back in it?

7060 wrote: I just rebuilt the engine in my 185 and overfilled it slightly with Rotella and put a pint of Lucas in it to keep from scoring a piston maybe. I'm thinking I should probably drain it out though and put some break in oil in to help with ring seating. Ive ran it long enough to circulate antifreeze though it but haven't took it out yet. What's the best break in oil to go back in it?

Being its winter and it's a fresh rebuild, I would opt for any diesel oil (rotella, delvac or delo) preferably in 10w-30 weight NOT 15W-40.

With today's oils an additive is not needed. In some cases they do more harm than good.

My thoughts with the Lucas was that it would keep the cylinder walls lubed up a little more to keep from scoring a piston when I'm working it hard. I will drain it and maybe try the John Deere break in oil. I know some people that use it.

royal purple break-in oil, and NO additives of any kind

Edited by Bill_MN - 12 Jan 2017 at 9:25am

BenGiBoy wrote: AMSOIL makes break-in oil, if you want to go that route. Only 8.45 a quart.  AMSOIL Break-In Oil

Sayyyyyyyy.. it has that nasty zinc in it, too. :) It's oil without friction modifiers, as I suspected. Many motorcycle oils are also without friction modifiers. As for additives: Buy the right oil in the first place and avoid additives. Most are just snake oil treatments. Even my car owners manual tells me in no uncertain terms to not use oil additives.



Edited by DougS - 12 Jan 2017 at 9:34am

Flat tappers need zinc but this is about the best way to get the rings to cut into the cylinders during the first 50 hours not what is best long term oil for the tractor.   I am in the camp of just run it easy for the first 50 hours with normal oil. Worked on my d15 and I have used that 160 for all it is worth since 1 year of hard farming later runs great. Time will tell how long it lasts.

Edited by Dan73 - 12 Jan 2017 at 9:38am

BenGiBoy wrote: So they need zinc, but not in their break-in oil?

Breakin oil is about causing the rings to ware into the cylinders zinc is a lubricant so if you want to focus faster engine ware to get the rings to "take a set" then you need less lubricant in the oil. As I said I am not a fan of break in oil.

Actually, zinc and phosphorus in break-in oil has long-term benefits. As the metal parts wear in together and those microscopic rough spots in metal smooth out, the zinc and phos get incorporated into and coat the wear surfaces which remains once the break-in oil is drained. This helps with wear going forward.

Thanks Dan73, that cleared up some confusion....

Over the decades breaking procedures have changed. Up until the late 60s Deere suggested a break in oil with Bonne Ami added and to work the tractor as hard as possible. When they changed to chrome rings they left out the abrasive and still worked the engine hard.

In 1973 with a new Ford Pinto (woody wagon) the manual emphasized during the first 500 or 1000 miles varying the engine speed for breaking and not working it hard. That's probably because the rod bearing peak wear point depends on the engine speed and load.

Gerald J.

BenGiBoy wrote: DougS wrote: BenGiBoy wrote: AMSOIL makes break-in oil, if you want to go that route. Only 8.45 a quart.  AMSOIL Break-In Oil Sayyyyyyyy.. it has that nasty zinc in it, too. :) It's oil without friction modifiers, as I suspected. Many motorcycle oil are also without friction modifiers. I thought that older tractor engines needed zinc?

Ben, Doug was being sarcastic........meaning it is GOOD, not nasty.....

oil of today is much better than even just 5 years ago. The break in oil allows a small amount of wear to occur on the rings/cylinders. Modern oil is too good, and the rings may have a hard time seating. Like Dr Allis says, I'm ok with running it for a few minutes, to ensure it's ok, then work it hard for a few minutes, then cool down, and repeat. My pulling engine, and drag cars get broken in with hard use right out of the gate. I am trying the JD break in oil for the first time on an Oliver I'm putting back together. It will not get worked very hard, so I want it to get broken in right. I want to put it on the dyno for a while also.

Although oils have been changing constantly in the last 5-10 years, changes were implemented in 2016 by manufacturers so as to meet new standards set out to take effect by uncle sam this past December (Sulphur/zinc). I will continue with T1 Rotella from Wally World in my gas units as it is economical and a decent basic oil. Per my machinist who built the last gas engine I had done, he runs 4 oz. of Lucas TB Zinc Plus in everything he builds as a break-in supplement (every day rebuilds up to his own alcohol pulling engines) and advised he has done it this way for years.
When asked specifically if he would recommend any type of zinc additive on older flat tappet units, he advised 4 oz. in every oil change is what he is recommending to his customers.
Take it for what it's worth . . . .

That article made perfect sense until they gave the sales pitch at the end for Joe Gibbs assembly lube and oil. But what I did take from that article is that unless it's a high performance engine you can use regular oil off the shelf for break in and normal use and you will be just fine.