Engine break in oil
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133669
Printed Date: 22 Jun 2025 at 9:16am
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Topic: Engine break in oil
Posted By: 7060
Subject: Engine break in oil
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 8:39pm
| I just rebuilt the engine in my 185 and overfilled it slightly with Rotella and put a pint of Lucas in it to keep from scoring a piston maybe. I'm thinking I should probably drain it out though and put some break in oil in to help with ring seating. Ive ran it long enough to circulate antifreeze though it but haven't took it out yet. What's the best break in oil to go back in it? |
Replies:
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 8:52pm
| This has been discussed here before I personally wouldn't worry about it. I didn't use any in my d15 gas just normal engine oil. I thing the general response in here was how you run the motor is more important then the oil. |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 9:09pm
Being its winter and it's a fresh rebuild, I would opt for any diesel oil (rotella, delvac or delo) preferably in 10w-30 weight NOT 15W-40. ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
7060 wrote:Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 9:36pm
| Put the oil you intend to use in it WITH OUT the Lucas. Any additives like Lucas will prevent ring brake in. A cheap motor oil would be better the first 50 hrs than a good motor oil with additives. MACK |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 4:46am
|
With today's oils an additive is not needed. In some cases they do more harm than good. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 8:11am
| You can buy John Deere break-in oil from a dealer. Basically just poor oil to help the rings wear in. |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:04am
| My thoughts with the Lucas was that it would keep the cylinder walls lubed up a little more to keep from scoring a piston when I'm working it hard. I will drain it and maybe try the John Deere break in oil. I know some people that use it. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:07am
| 10W-30 NOT synthetic car engine oil for 50 hrs.......not diesel oil, car oil. |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:24am
|
royal purple break-in oil, and NO additives of any kind
------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: BenGiBoy
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:24am
AMSOIL makes break-in oil, if you want to go that route. Only 8.45 a quart.  http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/break-in-oil-%28sae-30%29/?code=BRKQT-EA" rel="nofollow - AMSOIL Break-In Oil ------------- '39 Model B Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:30am
Sayyyyyyyy.. it has that nasty zinc in it, too. :) It's oil without friction modifiers, as I suspected. Many motorcycle oils are also without friction modifiers. As for additives: Buy the right oil in the first place and avoid additives. Most are just snake oil treatments. Even my car owners manual tells me in no uncertain terms to not use oil additives. |
Posted By: BenGiBoy
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:34am
I thought that older tractor engines needed zinc? ------------- '39 Model B Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:38am
| Flat tappers need zinc but this is about the best way to get the rings to cut into the cylinders during the first 50 hours not what is best long term oil for the tractor. I am in the camp of just run it easy for the first 50 hours with normal oil. Worked on my d15 and I have used that 160 for all it is worth since 1 year of hard farming later runs great. Time will tell how long it lasts. |
Posted By: BenGiBoy
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:40am
|
So they need zinc, but not in their break-in oil? ------------- '39 Model B Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:48am
Breakin oil is about causing the rings to ware into the cylinders zinc is a lubricant so if you want to focus faster engine ware to get the rings to "take a set" then you need less lubricant in the oil. As I said I am not a fan of break in oil. |
Posted By: Bill Deppe/AC Salvag
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:49am
| Long time ago an old experienced mechanic advised me to use a 10w or 20w non detergent oil and run for a short time without load as this readily seats the rings |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:50am
|
Actually, zinc and phosphorus in break-in oil has long-term benefits. As the metal parts wear in together and those microscopic rough spots in metal smooth out, the zinc and phos get incorporated into and coat the wear surfaces which remains once the break-in oil is drained. This helps with wear going forward. ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:51am
| Bill I think at the time that was good advice but I thing rings and cylinders have come along ways over the years and it just isn't needed any more. But I far from an expert. |
Posted By: BenGiBoy
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:54am
|
Thanks Dan73, that cleared up some confusion.... ------------- '39 Model B Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:58am
Back in the late 50s Chevrolet told those who bought a car with a 265 V-8 to slowly pour Bon Ami down the air intake to break in the rings. Of course that was when you traded cars every two years anyway. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 10:13am
|
Over the decades breaking procedures have changed. Up until the late 60s Deere suggested a break in oil with Bonne Ami added and to work the tractor as hard as possible. When they changed to chrome rings they left out the abrasive and still worked the engine hard. In 1973 with a new Ford Pinto (woody wagon) the manual emphasized during the first 500 or 1000 miles varying the engine speed for breaking and not working it hard. That's probably because the rod bearing peak wear point depends on the engine speed and load. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 11:08am
|
Some reading material? http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=113470&title=breaking-in-an-engine" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=113470&title=breaking-in-an-engine |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 12:13pm
Ben, Doug was being sarcastic........meaning it is GOOD, not nasty..... ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 12:14pm
| I toured the Harvey engine plant back in August of 1980. Engines were connected to a dyno (multiple dyno's and multiple engines in one room) and engine was fired up. Oil pressure was verified. Oil leaks were looked for. I suppose it was allowed to reach operating temps and THEN THEY POURED THE COALS TO IT!! engines were under full load minutes after fire up, and I doubt very much any special oil was used. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 12:27pm
|
oil of today is much better than even just 5 years ago. The break in oil allows a small amount of wear to occur on the rings/cylinders. Modern oil is too good, and the rings may have a hard time seating. Like Dr Allis says, I'm ok with running it for a few minutes, to ensure it's ok, then work it hard for a few minutes, then cool down, and repeat. My pulling engine, and drag cars get broken in with hard use right out of the gate. I am trying the JD break in oil for the first time on an Oliver I'm putting back together. It will not get worked very hard, so I want it to get broken in right. I want to put it on the dyno for a while also. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: randy
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 12:38pm
|
John Deere puts 10w 30 break-in oil in all of its new engines, so a JD service manager told me. I think they want it in an engine for about 200 hr, then go to there regular oil. ------------- CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070 |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 1:16pm
|
Although oils have been changing constantly in the last 5-10 years, changes were implemented in 2016 by manufacturers so as to meet new standards set out to take effect by uncle sam this past December (Sulphur/zinc). I will continue with T1 Rotella from Wally World in my gas units as it is economical and a decent basic oil. Per my machinist who built the last gas engine I had done, he runs 4 oz. of Lucas TB Zinc Plus in everything he builds as a break-in supplement (every day rebuilds up to his own alcohol pulling engines) and advised he has done it this way for years. When asked specifically if he would recommend any type of zinc additive on older flat tappet units, he advised 4 oz. in every oil change is what he is recommending to his customers. Take it for what it's worth . . . . |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 11:32am
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You might want to read this before you just start dumping zinc into your motor oil: http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/" rel="nofollow - http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/ If I wanted zinc in my oil I'd buy oil that already has zinc in the formulation. Make note of what the author says about break-in oils and zinc |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 12:40pm
|
That article made perfect sense until they gave the sales pitch at the end for Joe Gibbs assembly lube and oil. But what I did take from that article is that unless it's a high performance engine you can use regular oil off the shelf for break in and normal use and you will be just fine. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 3:18pm
|
BINGO - Stan. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 6:16pm
|
Interesting article that is dated 2012, I noted the newer specs mandated by API to meet new standards set forth by the government recently. For the end user, just make sure whatever you use meets your equipment spec by age and type of engine. At the end of the day, a good sample will tell you what you need to know. |
Posted By: ACjack
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 6:47pm
The oil that they used there was Shell Rotila and I believed it was straight 30w. |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 6:59pm
|
Folks, I am not a motor engineer but have out of personal necessity rebuilt s few. For you folks that think an engine has to be worn/broken in, think bout this. if you do it like me and put the oil in that your are going to use all the time and drive it like you do when you always use it, then you can drive it forever after and it will never get broken in - - just like new neigh!  |
Posted By: Orange4ever
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 7:51am
|
When we rebuild a motor we never put in antifreeze we always put in water . use Rotella either 30w if it's in the summer or 15w40 for winter . We always put the oil in with a hand pump would go into the block oil Sending unit . for oil to get in the bearings and oil passages before running . Crank it over without starting it till oil comes out the oil sending unit hole . Start it get to operating temperature make sure everything is OK hook it to the big brush hog and let it run ,about every hour change engine RPMs i've let them run for 10 hours I've let them run for five hours depends on what time of the day we get it up and running we don't use antifreeze because antifreeze has a little powder in it and if it leaks out around the head gasket it'll keep the head gasket from sealingl . water will evaporate .head gasket Will seal at operating temperature. Everything checked out OK we change the oil filter! and put antifreeze in it and put it back to work . yes we let it cool before we put in anti-freeze we also put the sending unit back in the block before we start the motor DAVE ------------- If you want a man to be a successful farmer, give him a Allis Chalmers tractor. If you want him to be a successful mechanic, give him a John Deere |
Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 12:26am
|
Everytime there is an oil topic I get more confused. Back in December several people were saying to use valvoline VR1 racing oil 30W in our older tractors. Because of the zinc. So I was gonna use it in my B. I plan to now with. So... Is this good or bad ? ------------- 1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 4:38am
| Personally I don't think it will matter. I don't know the detergency of that oil, which would matter to me. You don't want an oil with low detergency sloshing around in an older cooler-running engine. Sludge matters. I don't think you mean 30W. The 'W' indicates it's a winter oil, which SAE 30 is not. My previous employer, in Oregon where the winters are not that cold, used 15W-40 in everything up until a few years ago and I thought that oil was like syrup when it was cold. Those vehicles had lifter noise and oil consumption already as early as 75,000 miles. Most of your wear happens during warmup - this is where you want your oil circulating as quickly as possible. The old adage of thicker is better isn't true anymore. Perhaps down in Western KY 15W-40 would be fine, but I wouldn't use it in the northern states. As for zinc, I don't think it will make a huge difference, especially if you only use your tractor a few 100 hours a year. |
Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 1:14pm
|
SAE 30 is what I meant. Yes. 30 weight is what I meant to type. ------------- 1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV |