Distributor

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   I have a WD45 with a Delco distributor i am going to be checking the timing  Advanced weights for where.  
1)Can I take those out without changing the timing?
2)should I put lithium grease on the stud the weights move on?
3) can I turn the shaft to make sure weights move freely without changing the timing? From what I have seen from YouTube on other tractors the top shaft is a separate part that the bottom that drives it..
4) what should I look for?

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Aaron123 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 14 Apr 2020 Location: Monroe WI Points: 82	Post Options Post Reply Quote Aaron123 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Distributor Posted: 22 Apr 2021 at 7:45am
	I have a WD45 with a Delco distributor i am going to be checking the timing Advanced weights for where. 1)Can I take those out without changing the timing? 2)should I put lithium grease on the stud the weights move on? 3) can I turn the shaft to make sure weights move freely without changing the timing? From what I have seen from YouTube on other tractors the top shaft is a separate part that the bottom that drives it.. 4) what should I look for?

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Dakota Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3964	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dakota Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Apr 2021 at 8:15am
	Back many years ago I changed many advance wieghts and springs when building hot rods. You just remove the springs and pull the wieghts. Put new wieghts on and check the timing. The differences in the wieght sets some times changed the base timing but most didn't. I always put a small drop of purple grease on the pins when installing new wieght it used to come with them in a small plastic squeeze tube. The inner shaft runs down to the drive gear and the outer rotates freely around it. I suppose you could turn it 180 and really mes it up the rotor will only fit one way. Look for worn drive pins at the wieght you should be able to move the cap about 15 deg and feel the springs pull it back. If it dosent you have problems. The amount of movement and rapidness of advance all depends on what wieghts and springs your using.the lighter spring the faster the advance. The amount of cut in the wieghts the greater the advance. Normal wieghts won't affect base timing but some more aggressive ones did.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85474	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Apr 2021 at 8:24am
	the only way you can really screw up the timing is by removing the lock bolt below the distributor and pulling the distributor up , out of the motor, then rotating the shaft, then reinstalling.. Pulling the internals, weights, advance, point, condenser should not be a problem.. you have to fine tune the point gap and timing when it is reinstalled.
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11925	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Apr 2021 at 8:32am
	You don't have to worry about taking it out of time if you don't remove the Distributor from the engine all together. The one thing these Distributor do do, is the oilite bushing for the mainshaft tends to wear over years of spinning causing a wobble in the mainshaft resulting in dwell fluctuation which will make the engine run lousy. A easy way to tell if your Distributor needs to be rebuilt is pop the cap off, grab the rotor and see if you can move it side to side. If it moves .0003-.0005 thousands, its probably going to need to be rebuilt. If it doesn't move hardly at all side to side, its probably okay. If it moves substantially side to side, it will definitely need a rebuild. Now as far as inspecting the advance weights and springs is concerned, you would need to remove the 3 8-32 screws that hold the breaker plate in. (two of your screws are the hold-down screws for the cap. Lift the duct cover. You'll need to remove the insulator block first, then you can lift the breaker plate up and out with the points and condenser still on the plate. Once the breaker plate is out of the way, you can do an inspection on the springs. Grab the mainshaft and give it a twist to see if the springs are returning the weights correctly. If things are moving freely, and there's no sign of rust in and around the weights, the unit is working correctly. NEVER put grease on the advance weights! Grease mixed with ozone from the points makes muck. You'll be creating your own problem. If for some reason the weights aren't working smoothly, then you'll have to remove the springs, weight retainer plate, and the point cam in order to get to the weights. When I rebuild our exchange Distributors, I coat the weights with a spray dry graphite. Gives the weights a nice coating which allows them to slide nice and smooth for perfect operation. The only lubricant you want to use in a Distributor is a cam lube for the points. And, you just want to use a little bit. To much lube could sling into the contacts of the points causing misfiring and possible shutting down the engine... HTH Steve@B&B
	39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Aaron123 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 14 Apr 2020 Location: Monroe WI Points: 82	Post Options Post Reply Quote Aaron123 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Apr 2021 at 5:46am
	Thank you everyone for your advice.. I really appreciate it..