Pulling the internals, weights, advance, point, condenser should not be a problem.. you have to fine tune the point gap and timing when it is reinstalled.

You don't have to worry about taking it out of time if you don't remove the Distributor from the engine all together. The one thing these Distributor do do, is the oilite bushing for the mainshaft tends to wear over years of spinning causing a wobble in the mainshaft resulting in dwell fluctuation which will make the engine run lousy. A easy way to tell if your Distributor needs to be rebuilt is pop the cap off, grab the rotor and see if you can move it side to side. If it moves .0003-.0005 thousands, its probably going to need to be rebuilt. If it doesn't move hardly at all side to side, its probably okay. If it moves substantially side to side, it will definitely need a rebuild.

Now as far as inspecting the advance weights and springs is concerned, you would need to remove the 3 8-32 screws that hold the breaker plate in. (two of your screws are the hold-down screws for the cap. Lift the duct cover. You'll need to remove the insulator block first, then you can lift the breaker plate up and out with the points and condenser still on the plate. Once the breaker plate is out of the way, you can do an inspection on the springs. Grab the mainshaft and give it a twist to see if the springs are returning the weights correctly. If things are moving freely, and there's no sign of rust in and around the weights, the unit is working correctly. NEVER put grease on the advance weights! Grease mixed with ozone from the points makes muck. You'll be creating your own problem. If for some reason the weights aren't working smoothly, then you'll have to remove the springs, weight retainer plate, and the point cam in order to get to the weights. When I rebuild our exchange Distributors, I coat the weights with a spray dry graphite. Gives the weights a nice coating which allows them to slide nice and smooth for perfect operation. The only lubricant you want to use in a Distributor is a cam lube for the points. And, you just want to use a little bit. To much lube could sling into the contacts of the points causing misfiring and possible shutting down the engine... HTH

Steve@B&B