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Eldon (WA) 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Points: 7765
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 Topic: D17SIV, 170 and 175 brakes
Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 12:12pm |
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Well that is my winter to-do list...I have 4 tractors that need brake work. Any tips on getting the job done painlessly? Do you have to remove the hydraulic valves on the right side, or do you just leave them hanging? What all parts should be replaced and can the brake bands and disc be re-lined? Who carries the best parts? Anyone have part numbers handy? I have the AC manual, but it sure is vague.....Thanks!
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 12:16pm |
I see the liners for the brakes are available at most AC parts suppliers. The nasty job will be pulling the axles. Be sure you have a hoist. You'll need an inside micrometer if you want to shim it correctly. The service manual says the shims are available. That's old news, of course. I don't know where you would find new shims.
Edited by DougS - 23 Nov 2011 at 8:50pm
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Jeff B
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Illinios
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 1:06pm |
Lining for the band BLKAD17AF and the disc is 70237421.
band kit is $16.75 perside and disc is $33.64 perside
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Chris/CT
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Niantic, Ct
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 4:44pm |
I have 3 sets of disc's and bands with rivets available if interested.
Be sure you replace the springs inside, AGCO springs.
Edited by Chris/CT - 23 Nov 2011 at 4:46pm
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MACK
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 9:59pm |
Agco has the shims, not cheep. They are the same shims to adjust ringgear bearings from WD through 7000.
Easyest way to measure for shims is to put final drive on with brake drum on them measure clearance between drum and side with feeler gauge. Then you will know how much to take out or add. If it is within limets put the rest of the bolts in and you are on your way. MACK
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 11:14pm |
How thick is the drum, Mack? My service manual tells me to put the final drive on without the drum and use an inside micrometer the measure the spacing. Feeler gauges cost a whole lot less than an inside micrometer.
Edited by DougS - 23 Nov 2011 at 11:16pm
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m16ty
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011
Location: TN
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 11:18pm |
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You can leave the hyd valves hanging.
The job is a pain in the rear but not too complicated.
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Kevin in WA
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Joined: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Lynden, WA
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Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 11:40pm |
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Eldon, Give me a call 360 201 5710
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MACK
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Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 7:04am |
Put the drum on with the new lining on it then measure the space. Don't matter how wide the drum is as long as you have the correct space. If the space is correct, then you don't have to remove final drive again. Much easer than trying to measure correctly with a inside mike. To measure with inside mike you have to remove band. If band is good there is no reason to remove.
Service manual was written by a engineer who never worked on one just saw the prints.
MACK+
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Chris/CT
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Niantic, Ct
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Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 7:06am |
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We did it the way Mack suggest, worked out fine, one side way good, pulled otherside back off and re-shimed to spec, quick and easy.
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skipwelte
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
Location: Anthon, Iowa
Points: 723
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Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 9:08am |
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Do the left side first Eldon, then you have a good idea how it comes apart and goes together. The right side is a fighter with the hyd valves in the way, I let them hang on the tractor, but they are always in the way. Good luck!! Oh yea, use all new springs when you go back together.
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EricTn
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Location: Mid Tenn
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Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 10:56am |
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I usually install a new seal while I'm there also. And sometimes the o-ring on the carrier if I suspect it may been leaking.
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 11:14am |
The manual specifies a distance of 2.034 to 2.044 inches between the friction plates. Mack, can you tell me what that would be if measured with a feeler gauge between the disk pad and the friction plate?
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