Farm Equipment - D17SIV, 170 and 175 brakes

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D17SIV, 170 and 175 brakes

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41001
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 7:05am
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Topic: D17SIV, 170 and 175 brakes

Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Subject: D17SIV, 170 and 175 brakes
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 12:12pm

Well that is my winter to-do list...I have 4 tractors that need brake work. Any tips on getting the job done painlessly? Do you have to remove the hydraulic valves on the right side, or do you just leave them hanging? What all parts should be replaced and can the brake bands and disc be re-lined? Who carries the best parts? Anyone have part numbers handy? I have the AC manual, but it sure is vague.....Thanks!

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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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Replies:

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 12:16pm

I see the liners for the brakes are available at most AC parts suppliers. The nasty job will be pulling the axles. Be sure you have a hoist. You'll need an inside micrometer if you want to shim it correctly. The service manual says the shims are available. That's old news, of course. I don't know where you would find new shims.

Posted By: Jeff B
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 1:06pm

Lining for the band BLKAD17AF and the disc is 70237421.

band kit is $16.75 perside and disc is $33.64 perside

Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 4:44pm

I have 3 sets of disc's and bands with rivets available if interested.

Be sure you replace the springs inside, AGCO springs.

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 9:59pm

Agco has the shims, not cheep. They are the same shims to adjust ringgear bearings from WD through 7000.

Easyest way to measure for shims is to put final drive on with brake drum on them measure clearance between drum and side with feeler gauge. Then you will know how much to take out or add. If it is within limets put the rest of the bolts in and you are on your way. MACK

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 11:14pm

How thick is the drum, Mack? My service manual tells me to put the final drive on without the drum and use an inside micrometer the measure the spacing. Feeler gauges cost a whole lot less than an inside micrometer.

Posted By: m16ty
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 11:18pm

You can leave the hyd valves hanging.

The job is a pain in the rear but not too complicated.

Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2011 at 11:40pm

Eldon, Give me a call 360 201 5710

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 7:04am

Put the drum on with the new lining on it then measure the space. Don't matter how wide the drum is as long as you have the correct space. If the space is correct, then you don't have to remove final drive again. Much easer than trying to measure correctly with a inside mike. To measure with inside mike you have to remove band. If band is good there is no reason to remove.

Service manual was written by a engineer who never worked on one just saw the prints.

MACK+

Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 7:06am

We did it the way Mack suggest, worked out fine, one side way good, pulled otherside back off and re-shimed to spec, quick and easy.

Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 9:08am

Do the left side first Eldon, then you have a good idea how it comes apart and goes together. The right side is a fighter with the hyd valves in the way, I let them hang on the tractor, but they are always in the way. Good luck!! Oh yea, use all new springs when you go back together.

Posted By: EricTn
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 10:56am

I usually install a new seal while I'm there also. And sometimes the o-ring on the carrier if I suspect it may been leaking.

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2011 at 11:14am

The manual specifies a distance of 2.034 to 2.044 inches between the friction plates. Mack, can you tell me what that would be if measured with a feeler gauge between the disk pad and the friction plate?