D17 S1 front spindle, how to take apart

Hi guys, just bought my first tractor, an AC D17 series 1 and wanting to do some general maintenance to it.. so you will see a lot of posts of simple questions...

First off: I am repacking the front wheel bearings and wanted to get a new felt washer or if it is really needed. I also thought I would repack the spindles but don't know how to get past woodruff key I think it is called below?



Also, on the 2 pictures below, there is a hole on the front of both left and right spindles but I don't know if that was to lube the spindles as one side has just a hole and the other just has some type of metal plug in it.


Also, on the left spindle arm there is a large diameter hole that I was just curious on why it was on that arm and not the right one.

The large hole is for power adjusting the front wheels, if other one doesn't have the hole it was changd at one time or broke, sound like you need an owners manual. I think they called the front adjustment "roll shift front end".

Ok that makes sense. I guess those zerk fitting are threaded I will attempt to take the old broken one out to see what size I need to buy. Where would I find the felt washers to put on the back side of the wheel bearings?

Thanks.

If it was mine I would put in new grease fittings and grease the snot out of it and hope I didn't need to replace the bearings.   I don't think those come apart well. If I remember correctly that spline shaft is an interference fit and is really tight.

They come apart fine. Just need a rose bud torch. I've been over this many times before but here goes again. Heat the arm around the spindle shaft red hot. Good and red. The shaft is separate enough that it won't get as hot as the arm if you just direct the heat onto the arm. Don't heat the shaft red hot. Douse with cold water when red hot. Tap off arm or use a puller if need be. If will come off easily. When you put it back on just heat the arm again red hot. Be sure the key is in place in the shaft. With a pliers set the red hot arm back onto the shaft and lightly tap into place before it gets too cool. Let it cool on it's own and it will shrink tight onto the shaft. If you do it another way you may end up with a loose fit over time. My way works and works every time. Actually it's not my way. It's the way I learned it working at an Allis dealer 20 plus years ago.

Edited by Lonn - 28 Nov 2015 at 8:14pm

You risk a loose arm later on Rick. The way I described is the correct way you do it. My 190 had it done the wrong way and it came loose. It's welded solid now.

Once you do one you'll see just how easy it is. It's a breeze, just sounds intimidating if you haven't done much torch work.

To each his own, your tractors, your way. But I about guarantee the loose ones you ran into were done the wrong way at one time. You may stay lucky. Oh and the way I described is correct and your way is just your way and correct for you but not at a dealership.

Edited by Lonn - 28 Nov 2015 at 8:45pm

Rick, I just don't want someone end up with a loose steering arm in a few years. BTW I sure don't think I'm the only one who knows anything. I'd say I know a lot less than others here but with this one thing I'm very confident in. I'm glad you are confident too. This has apparently turned into a pissing contest like it or not. I'm getting some shut eye.

Edited by Lonn - 28 Nov 2015 at 9:49pm

whew!

Yep they are actually the non-threaded pound in style, any local dealer should have them or your local farm store, just put new ones in mine and they were only .52 a piece

To help prevent loose steering arms, I use Belzona 1111 ( Super Metal ) as an irregular shim.

Rick wrote: I don't even own a torch, but I use a large heavy piece of brass rod and an 8 lb. sledge and they come apart just fine for me.

So what are you hitting with what?


Edited by Coke - 15 Oct 2018 at 3:27pm