D17 S1 front spindle, how to take apart
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115358
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Topic: D17 S1 front spindle, how to take apart
Posted By: ACthunder
Subject: D17 S1 front spindle, how to take apart
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 3:50pm
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Hi guys, just bought my first tractor, an AC D17 series 1 and wanting to do some general maintenance to it.. so you will see a lot of posts of simple questions... First off: I am repacking the front wheel bearings and wanted to get a new felt washer or if it is really needed. I also thought I would repack the spindles but don't know how to get past woodruff key I think it is called below?  Also, on the 2 pictures below, there is a hole on the front of both left and right spindles but I don't know if that was to lube the spindles as one side has just a hole and the other just has some type of metal plug in it.  Also, on the left spindle arm there is a large diameter hole that I was just curious on why it was on that arm and not the right one. 
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Replies:
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 4:24pm
| On the second picture, install a new grease zerk on each spindle knee and grease...that's how you grease the spindles. Rick |
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 4:53pm
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The large hole is for power adjusting the front wheels, if other one doesn't have the hole it was changd at one time or broke, sound like you need an owners manual. I think they called the front adjustment "roll shift front end". ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 5:00pm
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Also if both zerk holes are in the front one has been changed, there was no left or right to them I tink so one zerk would be in front and other in the back from the factory so mt guess is the one without the big hole in top has been replaced. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 5:34pm
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Ok that makes sense. I guess those zerk fitting are threaded I will attempt to take the old broken one out to see what size I need to buy. Where would I find the felt washers to put on the back side of the wheel bearings? Thanks. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 6:16pm
| An AGCO dealership. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 7:52pm
| If it was mine I would put in new grease fittings and grease the snot out of it and hope I didn't need to replace the bearings. I don't think those come apart well. If I remember correctly that spline shaft is an interference fit and is really tight. |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:04pm
| There is no splined shaft. All that holds the spindle is the keyway and the steering arm and that can be a bear to take off the top of the spindle without heat. Rick |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:10pm
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They come apart fine. Just need a rose bud torch. I've been over this many times before but here goes again. Heat the arm around the spindle shaft red hot. Good and red. The shaft is separate enough that it won't get as hot as the arm if you just direct the heat onto the arm. Don't heat the shaft red hot. Douse with cold water when red hot. Tap off arm or use a puller if need be. If will come off easily. When you put it back on just heat the arm again red hot. Be sure the key is in place in the shaft. With a pliers set the red hot arm back onto the shaft and lightly tap into place before it gets too cool. Let it cool on it's own and it will shrink tight onto the shaft. If you do it another way you may end up with a loose fit over time. My way works and works every time. Actually it's not my way. It's the way I learned it working at an Allis dealer 20 plus years ago.
The cold water freezes the arm in its expanded state and makes removal easy. Works on 7000, 8000, and Hundred series just the same. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:16pm
| I don't even own a torch, but I use a large heavy piece of brass rod and an 8 lb. sledge and they come apart just fine for me. I've never heated them. I figured a guy might understand how hard they CAN be to get off, if they didn't use a torch or something to heat them with first. So everyone has their own way of doing things, I guess. Rick |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:18pm
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You risk a loose arm later on Rick. The way I described is the correct way you do it. My 190 had it done the wrong way and it came loose. It's welded solid now. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:19pm
| Lonn thanks for posting that I couldn't remember the details but did remember it wasn't something someone who just bought their first tractor would really want to attempt without some advice. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:28pm
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Once you do one you'll see just how easy it is. It's a breeze, just sounds intimidating if you haven't done much torch work. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:29pm
| Lonn...Sorry, but that's not correct. The only steering arms that I've ever had that were loose, were the ones that were already loose and were moving back and forth badly. I've never had a loose one from doing it the way I've been doing it and that's been for the past 20 years. I'll stick with my way and you do yours your way. Rick |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 8:42pm
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To each his own, your tractors, your way. But I about guarantee the loose ones you ran into were done the wrong way at one time. You may stay lucky. Oh and the way I described is correct and your way is just your way and correct for you but not at a dealership. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 9:02pm
| Not trying to have a pi$$ing contest with you, Lonn. I will say this...just because you worked at an Allis dealership for X amount of years, doesn't make you the only one that knows something. And I don't think I was just "lucky" after doing 25 plus front ends from when I started 'til now either. I'm pretty danged particular with how I do things myself and anyone that knows me, knows that. So, yes...you do your thing and I'll do mine. Rick |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 9:45pm
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Rick, I just don't want someone end up with a loose steering arm in a few years. BTW I sure don't think I'm the only one who knows anything. I'd say I know a lot less than others here but with this one thing I'm very confident in. I'm glad you are confident too. This has apparently turned into a pissing contest like it or not. I'm getting some shut eye. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 9:51pm
| Me, too! LOL! Later... Rick |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 11:09pm
| whew! |
Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2015 at 11:53pm
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The hole in the front of my spindles seem to be 5/16 and don't seem to have threads, does this seem correct? Does anyone know what type of fittings I should purchase? Thanks, |
Posted By: Colby
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 5:20am
| Yep they are actually the non-threaded pound in style, any local dealer should have them or your local farm store, just put new ones in mine and they were only .52 a piece |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:13am
| I believe that they are 1/8 inch pipe thread. A very common grease zerk thread size. |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 2:06pm
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To help prevent loose steering arms, I use Belzona 1111 ( Super Metal ) as an irregular shim. Clean the surfaces before mating them back together. Apply release agent to one part and allow to dry. Apply Super Metal to the other part. Immediately mate the two parts together. Allow to cure. Super Metal contains is 100% solids and does not shrink. This keeps the parts tight. The only reason to use the release agent is to help facilitate future separation of the parts. I use this process on tapered fittings such as tie rod ends. This stuff is much stronger than JB Weld or even Devcon. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:27pm
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Pull the outer axle assembly out, turn up side down and slide back in then drive the arm off. Much easier to swing a sledge hammer down than up. Service manual says to cur arm off and install a new one. (price one first) MACK
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Posted By: Coke
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2018 at 3:26pm
So what are you hitting with what? ------------- 1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons |
Rick wrote: