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D17 clutch problem? |
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 5:16pm |
My D17 clutch pedal pushes in really easy but doesn't disengage. Looking through the inspection cover I can see the throw out bearing move in and out but the forks on the clutch plate stay forward not putting any pressure on the throw out bearing. The tractor is functional this way but you cant change gears without turning the motor off. Do I need to pull the motor to fix this?
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21723 |
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Is this something that has changed ?????????? With the clutch pedal released and all the way back, there should be no more than 3/8" distance between the throwout bearing and the fingers. Actually 1/4" would be better. There is a possibility the clutch pedal rod threads are slipping thru the yoke nut. In that case, I'd thread a 1/2" fine thread nut onto the clutch rod an inch or so and see if that won't make things start working again.
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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I bought the tractor in it's current condition. To try the nut trick you mention, the motor would need to come out, correct?
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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The throw out bearing travels a good 1" before touching the fingers
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21723 |
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NO !! not if that is what the problem actually is. If the clutch pedal rod pulls out without unthreading it, try the 1/2" NF nut. Thread it on the rod until there is 1/2" of threads still exposed and shove it back into the yoke trunnion.
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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Ok thank you for the advice!
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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Well....the treads were good and even with the rod almost all the way unscrewed the throw out bearing still wont contact the fingers enough to disengage.... Would it be a bad throw out bearing?
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21723 |
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To a veteran repairman, a bad throw out bearing would be obvious. If it has run long enough, it will eat its way right thru the fingers. Did someone just put a clutch in this tractor and not adjust the finger height properly ??????????????????????? You are on your own.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12126 |
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Is there some history between these 2 members???
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Clay ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Udall, Kansas Points: 9795 |
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A D-17 is not hard to split.
The throw out bearing in my neighbor's tractor went out and I did the job in just a few hours. Bought the bearing from the local AGCO dealer for around $28. The bearing had seized and popped out of the yoke. Since we do not have all the facts about the clutch in your tractor and listening to the various comments, I advise doing a split and investigation. Carefully inspect all components. Do not forget to check the pilot bearing as well. Personally, I would replace the pilot bearing as well as the throw out bearing. Easier to do it now than later. Not that expensive. |
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Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18930 |
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No, I don't think so,,,,,,I just think allispicker has the clutch in backwards!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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I'm going to work on splitting the tractor to find out exactly whats going on inside. Its hard to get a good visual through the inspection hole. I don't know any history of the clutch. One neat thing about the tractor is that is was a dealer demonstrator bought locally and I'm the second owner. I was lucky enough to get the original manual with delivery dates and signatures inside!
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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To pull the motor out, it looks like I unbolt the frame rails from the bell housing, and unbolt the accessory brackets near the bolster, then disconnect wires, power steering hoses, cables, etc. Looks like 8 bolts to be able to roll the front end away from the motor unless I'm missing something.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21723 |
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Leave the engine hang by the side frames and roll it apart.
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2259 |
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My thought as well.....apparently it was this way when allispicker acquired it. |
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AaronSEIA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2569 |
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The frame rails will NOT clear the bellhousing adapter. They have to at least be very loose. Book says to pull the front bolster, then the frame rails. My wide front I just took them all loose and had my boy help roll the whole front end out. AaronSEIA
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allispicker ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 160 |
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I got it fixed! Thanks to Dr. Allis and others for the help. I split it and found the bolt and nut that tightens the yoke to the throw out bearing collar was really loose. The collar had turned and the tabs didn't catch in the yoke. Put it back together and I have a working foot clutch again!
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Clay ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Udall, Kansas Points: 9795 |
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Fantastic!!!! Congratulations allispicker.
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