D17 clutch problem?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=153175
Printed Date: 18 Jul 2025 at 11:50am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D17 clutch problem?
Posted By: allispicker
Subject: D17 clutch problem?
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 5:16pm
| My D17 clutch pedal pushes in really easy but doesn't disengage. Looking through the inspection cover I can see the throw out bearing move in and out but the forks on the clutch plate stay forward not putting any pressure on the throw out bearing. The tractor is functional this way but you cant change gears without turning the motor off. Do I need to pull the motor to fix this? |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 5:27pm
| Is this something that has changed ?????????? With the clutch pedal released and all the way back, there should be no more than 3/8" distance between the throwout bearing and the fingers. Actually 1/4" would be better. There is a possibility the clutch pedal rod threads are slipping thru the yoke nut. In that case, I'd thread a 1/2" fine thread nut onto the clutch rod an inch or so and see if that won't make things start working again. |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 5:47pm
| I bought the tractor in it's current condition. To try the nut trick you mention, the motor would need to come out, correct? |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 5:52pm
| The throw out bearing travels a good 1" before touching the fingers |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 5:54pm
| NO !! not if that is what the problem actually is. If the clutch pedal rod pulls out without unthreading it, try the 1/2" NF nut. Thread it on the rod until there is 1/2" of threads still exposed and shove it back into the yoke trunnion. |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 6:06pm
| Ok thank you for the advice! |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2018 at 7:56pm
| Well....the treads were good and even with the rod almost all the way unscrewed the throw out bearing still wont contact the fingers enough to disengage.... Would it be a bad throw out bearing? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 7:16am
| To a veteran repairman, a bad throw out bearing would be obvious. If it has run long enough, it will eat its way right thru the fingers. Did someone just put a clutch in this tractor and not adjust the finger height properly ??????????????????????? You are on your own. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 8:36am
| Is there some history between these 2 members??? |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 10:09am
|
A D-17 is not hard to split. The throw out bearing in my neighbor's tractor went out and I did the job in just a few hours. Bought the bearing from the local AGCO dealer for around $28. The bearing had seized and popped out of the yoke. Since we do not have all the facts about the clutch in your tractor and listening to the various comments, I advise doing a split and investigation. Carefully inspect all components. Do not forget to check the pilot bearing as well. Personally, I would replace the pilot bearing as well as the throw out bearing. Easier to do it now than later. Not that expensive. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 10:16am
|
No, I don't think so,,,,,,I just think allispicker has the clutch in backwards! ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 11:42am
| I'm going to work on splitting the tractor to find out exactly whats going on inside. Its hard to get a good visual through the inspection hole. I don't know any history of the clutch. One neat thing about the tractor is that is was a dealer demonstrator bought locally and I'm the second owner. I was lucky enough to get the original manual with delivery dates and signatures inside! |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 11:45am
| To pull the motor out, it looks like I unbolt the frame rails from the bell housing, and unbolt the accessory brackets near the bolster, then disconnect wires, power steering hoses, cables, etc. Looks like 8 bolts to be able to roll the front end away from the motor unless I'm missing something. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 12:07pm
| Leave the engine hang by the side frames and roll it apart. |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 12:48pm
My thought as well.....apparently it was this way when allispicker acquired it. |
Ted J wrote:Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 4:15pm
|
The frame rails will NOT clear the bellhousing adapter. They have to at least be very loose. Book says to pull the front bolster, then the frame rails. My wide front I just took them all loose and had my boy help roll the whole front end out. AaronSEIA
|
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 10:06pm
| I got it fixed! Thanks to Dr. Allis and others for the help. I split it and found the bolt and nut that tightens the yoke to the throw out bearing collar was really loose. The collar had turned and the tabs didn't catch in the yoke. Put it back together and I have a working foot clutch again! |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 10:33pm
Fantastic!!!! Congratulations allispicker. 
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