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D15 series 2 carburetor |
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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Im doing a few minor repairs on a d15 series 2 for a customer and ran into a snag today. It runs ok, but struggles under load kinda, and runs better with the choke on. Decided to take the carb off and go through it. Looks like someone was recently through it because it's pretty clean. However i cannot get the main jet loose. It is a tsx464 carb with the main jet adjustment on the bottom. The screwdriver slot is so destroyed from whoever was in there that i can't get a decent bite. I worked at it and even heated the area up around it with a torch and it won't budge. Now what do i do? Can i get a new jet from agco or somewhere? Can i drill the old one out and hope i get it all out? Or do i try to find another carb bowl where i can get the jet out? I don't think a 464 was actually used on the d15 but that's what's on it.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53740 |
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Before doing any more on (to) the jet, check the choke shaft for play and looseness...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8448 |
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Hager,
I had this issue and bulled into it.( different carb) The brass is soft. I ended up drilling out the brass. tried a easy out it did not work as usual! It was probably more dumb luck than skill. My small bit broke off as I was trying to drill the brass. I was able to go to the other side of the jet and use the broken drill bit as kind of a crude easy out that was tuning in the direction of the brass as I pushed it through, screwing out what was left of the brass jet. I chased the thread with a #8-32 tap and got the new jet in a rebuild kit. But they do sell just the individual pieces too. I did not try heat. I did use some blaster. Hope that might help a little. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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I ordered a new jet today from DJS. Im gonna try my luck at drilling it out.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5168 |
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A recent post about carbs recommended boiling the carb in water for 30 minutes, claims it loosens the stuck parts. Ive never tried it but I may on a motorcycle carb that I have that’s all gummed up.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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EPALLIS ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1151 |
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Yes, I've "boiled out" all my carbs at least once in their life and it does the trick every time. I highly recommend it and I'd really be surprised if you were not pleased with the results. Good Luck!
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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I actually got digging around in my spare parts and i found an tsx869 that's pretty complete. I should have enough good stuff now to make a good carb. The jet screwed right out of the one i found. Is there any difference between a 464 and an 869? They look identical from what i can see.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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john(MI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9262 |
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The only difference I have seen in different TSX carbs is the internal shapes making it necessary to us a different gasket between the two halves. I believe there are also differing jet configurations causing the different internal shapes.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8452 |
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I boiled a carb once and it cleaned up quite well. I've been told adding lemon juice will help cut through varnish and other buildup.
Do NOT do it in the house. Makes a lot of pretty bad smelling fumes. If you have hard water, I'd use bottled water instead. Our well water is very hard, and left lots of chalky white calcium residue on my carb. Had to re-do it with softer water. and that worked better.
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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Got it put together tonight, and it runs about the same as it did. Has a slight hesitation when you snap the throttle off idle. Everything was clean inside.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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Also i get zero response to how the power needle is set. Anywhere i put it it runs the same. I do get a little change from the idle needle.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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Changed the bottom needle and it changed some. But when i drive it it seems short of fuel when intake off, and then when you stand on the brakes it smokes like crazy. Im starting to wonder about the manifold gasket.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21652 |
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Open up the adjustable main jet 2 full turns.
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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I've tried many different configurations on the jets and i haven't been pleased with any.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21652 |
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And, you've had the discharge tube removed and fully cleaned each small hole in it ??
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11974 |
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The good Doctor is on it. Gotta' make sure them Carburetors are spotless inside. We were just discussing that on another post last week with Chris. (Sugarmaker) Make sure that nozzle bore is super clean along with the inlet passage and all the little circuit holes. The bore brushes that I use get right down in those nozzle passages and clean the muck out. You'll be a bit surprised what comes outta' those passages even after they've been so called "cleaned" or "soaked". Can't push that enough.... HTH
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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HagerAC ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1195 |
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Im gonna pull it apart again but it was clean.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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Alvin M ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Location: PA Points: 797 |
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Drill Out The Power Jet .003 I Did A D15 Series 2 Did The Same Thing Now It Runs Great
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structures ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 335 |
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For what it's worth my d15 II has a tsx869.
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Robert
1964 D15 Series II |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8448 |
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Robert,
Was just thinking about your D15 tractor project. What is the status? Did I miss the grand finale? It encouraged me to work on several projects! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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structures ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 335 |
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Well. I uh. Well. Uh. Uh.
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Robert
1964 D15 Series II |
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2933 |
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Apples to oranges I guess , but my series 1 D 15 has a TSX 815 carb .
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