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D15 series 2 carburetor

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=167561
Printed Date: 26 Apr 2024 at 5:06pm
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Topic: D15 series 2 carburetor
Posted By: HagerAC
Subject: D15 series 2 carburetor
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 9:15pm
Im doing a few minor repairs on a d15 series 2 for a customer and ran into a snag today. It runs ok, but struggles under load kinda, and runs better with the choke on. Decided to take the carb off and go through it. Looks like someone was recently through it because it's pretty clean. However i cannot get the main jet loose. It is a tsx464 carb with the main jet adjustment on the bottom. The screwdriver slot is so destroyed from whoever was in there that i can't get a decent bite. I worked at it and even heated the area up around it with a torch and it won't budge.   Now what do i do? Can i get a new jet from agco or somewhere? Can i drill the old one out and hope i get it all out? Or do i try to find another carb bowl where i can get the jet out? I don't think a 464 was actually used on the d15 but that's what's on it.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52



Replies:
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 4:48am
Before doing any more on (to) the jet, check the choke shaft for play and looseness...Wink 

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 9:16am
Hager,
I had this issue and bulled into it.( different carb)  The brass is soft. I ended up drilling out the brass. tried a easy out it did not work as usual!  It was probably more dumb luck than skill. My small bit broke off as I was trying to drill the brass. I was able to go to the other side of the jet and use the broken drill bit as kind of a crude easy out that was tuning in the direction of the brass as I pushed it through, screwing out what was left of the brass jet. 
I chased the thread with a #8-32 tap and got the new jet in a rebuild kit. But they do sell just the individual pieces too. 
I did not try heat. I did use some blaster.
Hope that might help a little.
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 4:55pm
I ordered a new jet today from DJS. Im gonna try my luck at drilling it out.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 8:23pm
A recent post about carbs recommended boiling the carb in water for 30 minutes, claims it loosens the stuck parts. Ive never tried it but I may on a motorcycle carb that I have that’s all gummed up.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: EPALLIS
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 10:17pm
Yes, I've "boiled out" all my carbs at least once in their life and it does the trick every time. I highly recommend it and I'd really be surprised if you were not pleased with the results. Good Luck!


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2020 at 11:58am
I actually got digging around in my spare parts and i found an tsx869 that's pretty complete.   I should have enough good stuff now to make a good carb. The jet screwed right out of the one i found. Is there any difference between a 464 and an 869? They look identical from what i can see.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2020 at 12:35pm
The only difference I have seen in different TSX carbs is the internal shapes making it necessary to us a different gasket between the two halves.  I believe there are also differing jet configurations causing the different internal shapes.


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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2020 at 1:21pm
I boiled a carb once and it cleaned up quite well. I've been told adding lemon juice will help cut through varnish and other buildup.
Do NOT do it in the house. Makes a lot of pretty bad smelling fumes. 
If you have hard water, I'd use bottled water instead. Our well water is very hard, and left lots of chalky white calcium residue on my carb. Had to re-do it with softer water. and that worked better. 


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2020 at 8:10pm
Got it put together tonight, and it runs about the same as it did. Has a slight hesitation when you snap the throttle off idle. Everything was clean inside.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2020 at 8:26pm
Also i get zero response to how the power needle is set. Anywhere i put it it runs the same.   I do get a little change from the idle needle.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2020 at 2:18pm
Changed the bottom needle and it changed some.   But when i drive it it seems short of fuel when intake off, and then when you stand on the brakes it smokes like crazy. Im starting to wonder about the manifold gasket.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2020 at 2:26pm
Open up the adjustable main jet 2 full turns.


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 7:44am
I've tried many different configurations on the jets and i haven't been pleased with any.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 8:21am
And, you've had the discharge tube removed and fully cleaned each small hole in it ??


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:32am
The good Doctor is on it. Gotta' make sure them Carburetors are spotless inside. We were just discussing that on another post last week with Chris. (Sugarmaker) Make sure that nozzle bore is super clean along with the inlet passage and all the little circuit holes. The bore brushes that I use get right down in those nozzle passages and clean the muck out. You'll be a bit surprised what comes outta' those passages even after they've been so called "cleaned" or "soaked". Can't push that enough....  HTH
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:50am
Im gonna pull it apart again but it was clean.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52


Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 10:03am
Drill Out The Power Jet .003 I Did A D15 Series 2 Did The Same Thing Now It Runs Great


Posted By: structures
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 4:46pm
For what it's worth my d15 II has a tsx869.

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Robert
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=82702&KW=structures&title=structures-1964-allis-d15-series-ii" rel="nofollow - 1964 D15 Series II


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 6:45pm
Robert, 
Was just thinking about your D15 tractor project. What is the status? Did I miss the grand finale? It encouraged me to work on several projects!
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: structures
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2020 at 6:44am
Well. I uh. Well. Uh. Uh. No grand finale yet. I’ve done some light duty work. But need to finish the sheet metal paint.

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Robert
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=82702&KW=structures&title=structures-1964-allis-d15-series-ii" rel="nofollow - 1964 D15 Series II


Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2020 at 10:25am
Apples to oranges I guess , but my series 1 D 15 has a TSX 815 carb .



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