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D15 engine in a B?

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CrestonM View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 May 2017 at 4:30pm
I've read that's a easy way to add power to a B, without buying a bigger tractor. If I were to swap a D15 or D15 Series II engine in, what all would be involved? I understand it will bolt up for the most part, but I'm sure there are some little issues to take care of. 
Thanks! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 5:11pm
Lets see you want to put a 40 horse engine in a B that came with a 20 horse engine I think the whole drive line will be to light and may break if you put it in a hard pull. On my B traction is the problem not power. Randy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:30pm
You just have to use the B flywheel and clutch. On the B it would be the easiest to drill out the holes in the front to 5/8" to bolt it to the front of the block.  The other way would to buy step studs from 5/8" into the block  down to 1/2" to go thru the B front assembly.


I pulled my C with the larger HP without drive train problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:39pm
This won't be a pulling tractor, per se, I'm going for PTO hp. It's not like it'll be pulling hard at the wheels, so I don't worry too much about that. I'll still be lugging the little 2-12 when I plow. It does run out of traction first when plowing, but I'm going to add a couple more weights anyway. Pulling my 60A in heavy green stalk milo it will do pretty good most of the time, but if you get on much of a slope that governor doesn't come off the wall, but it will still lug way way down, which isn't good for PTO work. Makes for a dirty bin sample Lol! 

Dick...you mean the 4 bolts that hold the front axle assembly on the block? If so, that's no problem. I'd just drill them out, like you say. 

But....before I go all out on this re-power project, I'm going to cut wheat with it this summer just as it is right now. That will give me a good idea of what I need. 

For fun, here is a video of last fall combining milo. At the start of the video it's kinda thin, but at the 1 minute mark it gets thick like it should be. You can really hear that cylinder growling then! Those milo stalks weren't green, but they still had a good bit of moisture in them. 

Thanks!


Edited by CrestonM - 06 May 2017 at 6:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrettPhillips Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:52pm
You need a 40...
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:53pm
Yeah I do! 
What I'd like to have is a 1954-56 Gleaner A....I'd like to find grandpa's, but we have no idea where it went. 

Edited by CrestonM - 06 May 2017 at 6:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:58pm
Simpler to buy a D14 or D15 then you have hyd's, 8 speeds forward and 2 reverse plus live pto which makes operating the combine a lot easier.
Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 7:03pm
Originally posted by WD45 WD45 wrote:

Simpler to buy a D14 or D15 then you have hyd's, 8 speeds forward and 2 reverse plus live pto which makes operating the combine a lot easier.
I know, but that takes more $$$, and barn space that I don't have. Plus, you can't reach the header lift lever! And I don't want to convert to hydraulic lift. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:42pm
Yes, That is what I was meaning! The four studs at the bottom thru the timing cover. The B block is tapped to 1/2" the D 15 is tapped to 5/8"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

Yes, That is what I was meaning! The four studs at the bottom thru the timing cover. The B block is tapped to 1/2" the D 15 is tapped to 5/8"
Ok, thanks. Should be simple enough! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:16pm
[QUOTE=Dick L]
You just have to use the B flywheel and clutch. On the B it would be the easiest to drill out the holes in the front to 5/8" to bolt it to the front of the block.  The other way would to buy step studs from 5/8" into the block  down to 1/2" to go thru the B front assembly.


I pulled my C with the larger HP without drive train problems.

    Hey,,hey,,,hey,,,I think I hear an experienced tractor puller talkin here,,,,,,WinkWink
   Hey Dick,,did you ever put a D17 engine in a D14/D15,,,??Clap


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by desertjoe desertjoe wrote:

[QUOTE=Dick L]
You just have to use the B flywheel and clutch. On the B it would be the easiest to drill out the holes in the front to 5/8" to bolt it to the front of the block.  The other way would to buy step studs from 5/8" into the block  down to 1/2" to go thru the B front assembly.


I pulled my C with the larger HP without drive train problems.

    Hey,,hey,,,hey,,,I think I hear an experienced tractor puller talkin here,,,,,,WinkWink
   Hey Dick,,did you ever put a D17 engine in a D14/D15,,,??Clap



No!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:57pm
Hey Creston...I think ya need to find ya a WD or WD45,,, that fix ya up jus right wit that 60 combine...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 11:51pm
Originally posted by Michael V (NM) Michael V (NM) wrote:

Hey Creston...I think ya need to find ya a WD or WD45,,, that fix ya up jus right wit that 60 combine...
I know....just trying to get by with less tractors (crazy excuse, right? Lol!)....I've only got 3 tractors and 3 combines, and the whole family thinks I'm nuts Lol..... The general attitude is "You will never make a living with this old stuff." Which, with all respect I understand (That never was the intent anyway), and I make sure they hear that, but it seems to go in one ear and out the other, so until I get out on my own, I'm going to make do with less Smile
Besides...who wouldn't want to re-power a tractor?? Lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt1050 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 5:17am
best way to cure folks who think ya don't need that many tractors, have them switch the implements!!!  once ya get the extra hp, maybe some wider/loaded tires would give ya more traction?  I also ran bear paw chains on my wd45 year round.  rode like crap, but helped keeping traction on the hillside I call a farm!!  if your wife is picky about digging up the lawn, I don't recommend the bear paws!!LOL  they'll also rip up asphalt if your tires start to spin.
Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 5:31am
Originally posted by Randy WI Randy WI wrote:

Lets see you want to put a 40 horse engine in a B that came with a 20 horse engine I think the whole drive line will be to light and may break if you put it in a hard pull. On my B traction is the problem not power. Randy

Randy, I kinda hate to bust your bubble, but this CA, that Paul built puts about 75 HP, through much the same drive line...WinkWink

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/DHzxuUUXUos[/TUBE]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:40am
Creston, just chip the computer on it to get some more horsepower out of it. Isn't that how they do it now a days? Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:45am
Originally posted by DiyDave DiyDave wrote:

Originally posted by Randy WI Randy WI wrote:

Lets see you want to put a 40 horse engine in a B that came with a 20 horse engine I think the whole drive line will be to light and may break if you put it in a hard pull. On my B traction is the problem not power. Randy

Randy, I kinda hate to bust your bubble, but this CA, that Paul built puts about 75 HP, through much the same drive line...WinkWink

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/DHzxuUUXUos[/TUBE]


Yea he puts the pressure on that CA with no problems and imagine how good it would pull if the wheels turned forward the whole way not just at the endLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 8:54am
Just update one of your tractors to a WD. The hand clutch will make combining a lot easier plus you can reach all the combine controls
Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GaryL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 9:46am
Creston,

If you want a WD, just remember you can buy mine.  I have a 12V setup from B&B with alternator, 3-pt, and front loader with two buckets.  Lots of other new & rebuilt parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 10:00am
Originally posted by WD45 WD45 wrote:

Just update one of your tractors to a WD. The hand clutch will make combining a lot easier plus you can reach all the combine controls
That's part of why I want to stick with the B - I can reach the controls just fine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 10:00am
Originally posted by GaryL GaryL wrote:

Creston,

If you want a WD, just remember you can buy mine.  I have a 12V setup from B&B with alternator, 3-pt, and front loader with two buckets.  Lots of other new & rebuilt parts.
Thanks Gary, but another tractor just isn't in the budget right now. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 12:11pm
Trade the Ford in on a real tractor, Creston.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 2:04pm
Originally posted by DougS DougS wrote:

Trade the Ford in on a real tractor, Creston.

The only Fords that aren't real tractors are the post 1950's ones! Lol
Plus, it's a family tractor, and me being the 5th generation of 8N owners, its not going anywhere!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:27pm
lotsa fords don't go anywhere...Wink

JK, LOL!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:34pm
Gary, here's one, wif the wheels turnin in the right direction.  He managed to get the speed horn blowin, and nearly skared the chit outta the owner of the tractor dealer where the pull was at.  He was in the next lane over, but you can't see him in this video...

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/NGV3UuqlX3o[/TUBE]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wbecker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:45pm
I but a d14/D15 engine in my B that I lowered for mowing with a 6' mower.
Besides what others have mentioned:
   you need to use the B radiator and fan, this is not ideal as I find on a 95 deg day mowing tall grass it runs around 200 deg or more, not a problem just info.
  Also need to add a temp gauge somewhere other than the gauge on the hood.
  The oil fill/breather cap is in a different place, need a new hole in the hood.
   The air filter will not fit with the D10/20/14/15 exhaust manifold, I fabbed up a pipe and put a K&N on it.
I also riveted on a plate to cover the B water temp & oil fill hole.
So it is very doable, but takes some work.




Edited by wbecker - 08 May 2017 at 8:33pm
Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Pulling a 60 with a B?? Whew!
1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:04pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

The only Fords that aren't real tractors are the post 1950's ones! Lol
Plus, it's a family tractor, and me being the 5th generation of 8N owners, its not going anywhere!

The 5000D was a good tractor. My uncle had one. It was painted blue and was badged as a Fordson Major Diesel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:08pm
Originally posted by Bill_MN Bill_MN wrote:

Pulling a 60 with a B?? Whew!
In a heavy crop, a stock B would never be able to take a full swath. My B is "hopped up" a little already, so it holds its own. Just not on hills! Lol
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