D15 engine in a B?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=138142
Printed Date: 07 Sep 2025 at 5:21pm
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Topic: D15 engine in a B?
Posted By: CrestonM
Subject: D15 engine in a B?
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 4:30pm
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I've read that's a easy way to add power to a B, without buying a bigger tractor. If I were to swap a D15 or D15 Series II engine in, what all would be involved? I understand it will bolt up for the most part, but I'm sure there are some little issues to take care of. Thanks!
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Replies:
Posted By: Randy WI
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 5:11pm
| Lets see you want to put a 40 horse engine in a B that came with a 20 horse engine I think the whole drive line will be to light and may break if you put it in a hard pull. On my B traction is the problem not power. Randy |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:30pm
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You just have to use the B flywheel and clutch. On the B it would be the easiest to drill out the holes in the front to 5/8" to bolt it to the front of the block. The other way would to buy step studs from 5/8" into the block down to 1/2" to go thru the B front assembly.
I pulled my C with the larger HP without drive train problems.
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:39pm
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This won't be a pulling tractor, per se, I'm going for PTO hp. It's not like it'll be pulling hard at the wheels, so I don't worry too much about that. I'll still be lugging the little 2-12 when I plow. It does run out of traction first when plowing, but I'm going to add a couple more weights anyway. Pulling my 60A in heavy green stalk milo it will do pretty good most of the time, but if you get on much of a slope that governor doesn't come off the wall, but it will still lug way way down, which isn't good for PTO work. Makes for a dirty bin sample Lol! Dick...you mean the 4 bolts that hold the front axle assembly on the block? If so, that's no problem. I'd just drill them out, like you say. But....before I go all out on this re-power project, I'm going to cut wheat with it this summer just as it is right now. That will give me a good idea of what I need. For fun, here is a video of last fall combining milo. At the start of the video it's kinda thin, but at the 1 minute mark it gets thick like it should be. You can really hear that cylinder growling then! Those milo stalks weren't green, but they still had a good bit of moisture in them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkraSJ0UrGA&t=5s" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkraSJ0UrGA&t=5s Thanks!
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Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:52pm
| You need a 40... |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:53pm
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Yeah I do!
What I'd like to have is a 1954-56 Gleaner A....I'd like to find grandpa's, but we have no idea where it went. |
Posted By: WD45
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 6:58pm
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Simpler to buy a D14 or D15 then you have hyd's, 8 speeds forward and 2 reverse plus live pto which makes operating the combine a lot easier. ------------- Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 7:03pm
I know, but that takes more $$$, and barn space that I don't have. Plus, you can't reach the header lift lever! And I don't want to convert to hydraulic lift.
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WD45 wrote:Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:42pm
| Yes, That is what I was meaning! The four studs at the bottom thru the timing cover. The B block is tapped to 1/2" the D 15 is tapped to 5/8" |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:59pm
Ok, thanks. Should be simple enough!
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:16pm
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[QUOTE=Dick L] You just have to use the B flywheel and clutch. On the B it would be the easiest to drill out the holes in the front to 5/8" to bolt it to the front of the block. The other way would to buy step studs from 5/8" into the block down to 1/2" to go thru the B front assembly.
I pulled my C with the larger HP without drive train problems.
Hey,,hey,,,hey,,,I think I hear an experienced tractor puller talkin here,,,,,,  Hey Dick,,did you ever put a D17 engine in a D14/D15,,,??  |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:36pm
No!
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Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:57pm
| Hey Creston...I think ya need to find ya a WD or WD45,,, that fix ya up jus right wit that 60 combine... |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 11:51pm
I know....just trying to get by with less tractors (crazy excuse, right? Lol!)....I've only got 3 tractors and 3 combines, and the whole family thinks I'm nuts Lol..... The general attitude is "You will never make a living with this old stuff." Which, with all respect I understand (That never was the intent anyway), and I make sure they hear that, but it seems to go in one ear and out the other, so until I get out on my own, I'm going to make do with less Besides...who wouldn't want to re-power a tractor?? Lol
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Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 5:17am
best way to cure folks who think ya don't need that many tractors, have them switch the implements!!! once ya get the extra hp, maybe some wider/loaded tires would give ya more traction? I also ran bear paw chains on my wd45 year round. rode like crap, but helped keeping traction on the hillside I call a farm!! if your wife is picky about digging up the lawn, I don't recommend the bear paws!! they'll also rip up asphalt if your tires start to spin.
------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 5:31am
Randy, I kinda hate to bust your bubble, but this CA, that Paul built puts about 75 HP, through much the same drive line... [TUBE]http://youtu.be/DHzxuUUXUos[/TUBE]
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:40am
| Creston, just chip the computer on it to get some more horsepower out of it. Isn't that how they do it now a days? Darrel |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:45am
Yea he puts the pressure on that CA with no problems and imagine how good it would pull if the wheels turned forward the whole way not just at the end |
Posted By: WD45
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 8:54am
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Just update one of your tractors to a WD. The hand clutch will make combining a lot easier plus you can reach all the combine controls ------------- Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 9:46am
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Creston, If you want a WD, just remember you can buy mine. I have a 12V setup from B&B with alternator, 3-pt, and front loader with two buckets. Lots of other new & rebuilt parts.
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 10:00am
That's part of why I want to stick with the B - I can reach the controls just fine.
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 10:00am
Thanks Gary, but another tractor just isn't in the budget right now.
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Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 12:11pm
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Trade the Ford in on a real tractor, Creston. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 2:04pm
The only Fords that aren't real tractors are the post 1950's ones! Lol Plus, it's a family tractor, and me being the 5th generation of 8N owners, its not going anywhere! |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:27pm
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lotsa fords don't go anywhere... JK, LOL!!! [TUBE]http://youtu.be/Z8kca1suI90[/TUBE]
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Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:34pm
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Gary, here's one, wif the wheels turnin in the right direction. He managed to get the speed horn blowin, and nearly skared the chit outta the owner of the tractor dealer where the pull was at. He was in the next lane over, but you can't see him in this video... [TUBE]http://youtu.be/NGV3UuqlX3o[/TUBE]
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Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:45pm
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I but a d14/D15 engine in my B that I lowered for mowing with a 6' mower. Besides what others have mentioned: you need to use the B radiator and fan, this is not ideal as I find on a 95 deg day mowing tall grass it runs around 200 deg or more, not a problem just info. Also need to add a temp gauge somewhere other than the gauge on the hood. The oil fill/breather cap is in a different place, need a new hole in the hood. The air filter will not fit with the D10/20/14/15 exhaust manifold, I fabbed up a pipe and put a K&N on it. I also riveted on a plate to cover the B water temp & oil fill hole. So it is very doable, but takes some work.  ------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 6:56pm
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Pulling a 60 with a B?? Whew! ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:04pm
The 5000D was a good tractor. My uncle had one. It was painted blue and was badged as a Fordson Major Diesel. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:08pm
In a heavy crop, a stock B would never be able to take a full swath. My B is "hopped up" a little already, so it holds its own. Just not on hills! Lol
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Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:36pm
| Sounds like a good project Creston! Always nice to see some innovation on this old stuff. Always some fabrication needed tho. Wish I was closer I would lend you my WD45.. I don't have enough work for it on my little 2 acre place. I may have to see if some of my local farmers need a hand but very hard to find a suitable job for these old tractors. Would look silly trying to disc a field beside a unit pulling a 50 ft disc. LOL. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 10:06pm
Speaking of which, I always wanted to park my 8N in front of one of my uncles' big Deere air seeders while it's unfolded in the field (So's it looks like it's sowing wheat), then take a photo of this "monster power" 8N just for ol' Shameless and HD6GTOM to hang on their walls. Lol! Also, does anyone have a pic of a D15 engine without the hood on? I'd like to see the location of the oil fill sump, as I don't really want to cut a new hole in my hood, so I'm sure "farmer ingenuity" could come up with something! Thanks!
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 07 May 2017 at 10:14pm
Yeah, that is true. A buddy of my Dad's used to sell Ford tractors at his Dad's dealership, and he said those were one tough machine!
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 4:49pm
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The D15 had the oil fill at the right front corner of the and a vent at the rear of the Valvecover. The D14 tractors had the filler/breather angle out to the right at the center. The D10 & D12 had it near the front and straight down. As far as I know there was not anything for the 138/149/160 engines that will match the hole in the hood of a B. Get a spare hood and a D10/12 valvecover will be you best bet. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 08 May 2017 at 8:46pm
This is what I did with the hood on my B with the D14 engine installation. ------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 9:22am
| Neat! So, is that the new oil fill hole on the right? If so, I already have a hole there where my gasoline starter tank is. |
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 9:42am
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Creston, yes the hole on the right is for the oil cap. But this valve cover is from a D14, I don't think the oil cap on a D15 would be in the same place. Bill ------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 9:44am
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Looks like PaulB explained the oil holes for both above.
------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |