Bill's '52 CA

 

Hope you guys & gals don't mind me starting a thread for my tractor project.  I figure I'd have to start a new thread everytime I have a question.  No point in that, so one thread to handle all my question when I'm stumped.

 

Currently I'm battling an intermittent spark situation.  I'm getting spark about 1% of thetime.  When I do have spark the engine fires up and runs, then I loose spark right away.  Previous owner (poorly) installed a standard GM alternator and ran a 12 volt battery.  The ignition switch was replaced with a generic one.  The wiring is a mess so I unhooked everything and ran just the wires needed to get it running.  Once I get it running I'll refine the wiring.  Currently I have a Ford style stand alone solenoid.  Hot wire runs from the hot side of the solenoid to the 'batt' terminal on the ignition switch.  Have a wire running from the ignition switch 'ignition' terminal to the batt (+) terminal on the coil.  Have a wire running from the coil negative (-) terminal to the distributor.  Have a wire running from the 'start' terminal on the ignition switch to the terminal on the solenoid to close it and power the starter.  Both battery cables are new and of proper size.  The battery is a new 12 volt version.  The coil is a new 12 volt coil.  New spark plugs, wires, distriutor cap, rotor, points, and condensor.

 

Using a basic circuit tester, I'm getting electricity everywhere I'm suppose to.

 

So what am I overlooking?  I read that the CA ran the positive to the frame and the negative cable to the starter.  The previous owner wired it up with the negative to the frame and the positive to the starter.  I fail to see how this could be the problem, but could it?  Should I reverse the battery cables?

 

It acts as if there is an intermittent  open circuit somewhere.

 

There is a, for lack of a better term, stud inside the distributor that has a piece of spring steel that passes through it.  There is nothing hooked to it so I have no idea what it is for.  I can find nothing in the service manual that describes it.  What is it for and should I have something connected to it?

 

I'm not running a resistor upstream of the distributor yet.  Could this be the problem?

 

One thing I haven't checked yet is if it is in time.  It did run many years ago before sitting.  I just had the head off and had to install four new exhaust valves, and of course new gaskets.

 

Sorry for the long post, but wanted to describe everything the best I could in hopes you guys can help me.  This thing has me stumped and I really need some help.  Thoughts on what I'm overlooking or doing wrong??

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

I checked for spark by sticking a screwdriver in the end of a spark plug wire and holding it close to a ground (holding it by the big plastic handle).  While cranking there is no spark.  Then it'll get a little spark and when it does it takes right off...then no spark again.

 

Anybody know what that other terminal or stud is for under the distributor cap??

 

Thanks for the thought.  The new coil is behaving the same as the old coil.  Could the new coil be bad out of the box?

 

How do I check the timing on this engine?  I see no clear timing mark on the crank pulley or a timing indicator as on a car engine.

 

I have not yet pulled the distributor as I do not know how to time this engine properly.  The shaft doesn't show any excessive play while installed, but given the state of everything else on this little tractor I am sure the bushing is worn; to what extent I cannot say for sure.  I'll pull it and give it a closer look.  That and I'll price a replacment.

 

If the condensor has failed, what behavior would you expect to see?  I've always replaced the condensor when replacing points as they are pretty cheap, but I've never experienced a failed condensor.  Would be great if this was the problem.

The stud with the spring steel is just that, a spring to hold the points closed. The cam on the distrib shaft opens them. The end of the spring should connect to the wire that goes through the side of the distributor back to the coil.

I'll see about getting a pic tonight when I get home and posting it up.

 

Going to stop by NAPA on the way home (if I don't forget) and buy a condensor for a 12 volt engine.  I could be wrong, but I'm guessing just any 12 volt condensor will do??  Figure I'll buy one for an old Chevrolet, like my '69 Nova for example.  I'm sure the new condensor I installed is for the oringinal 6 volt system as I bought the points/condensor for the original ignition system.

 

Thanks for all the input.  Got my fingers crossed it is the condensor, but some how that seems just too simple.

 

Since the coil was asked about...I bought it new from O'Reillys and asked for a 12 volt coil since the previous owner had changed the system over.  Prev owner did a poor job of it, so improving upon it is the next step after getting it running.

 

I was going to hook the coil to the battery, bypassing the ignition switch, but decided against it for the time being.  My fear is that if it does start, I'll be scrambling to shut it down should the engine start to run away from me.  I doubt this would or could happen, but my mind gets occupied with these types of thoughts.  The circuit tester shows power at the coil, but I didn't break out the multimeter to measure voltage. 

By hot wiring, I mean run a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the ignition coil. It should run. Then run it for a while, even take it for a drive. If it still runs after a while, you know the problem is back a ways, perhaps in the switch or connections. But I wouldn't be too concerned about the charging system, which should have no bearing on the ignition system other than keeping the battery charged.

 

If it does not turn so as to wipe oil across the cam, does it work off of a capillarity principle?

 

An oiler in a distributor.  Sounds like it would make an awful mess.

 

On advice, I'll try running a ground to the distributor, and a hot wire to the coil.  Might not get to it until Saturday as the days are getting short and there is a chance of rain in the forecast.  I need to build that other building.

All this to say there must be a good contact to ground by the fixed (not moving) point.