Hope you guys & gals don't mind me starting a thread for my tractor project.  I figure I'd have to start a new thread everytime I have a question.  No point in that, so one thread to handle all my question when I'm stumped.

 

Currently I'm battling an intermittent spark situation.  I'm getting spark about 1% of thetime.  When I do have spark the engine fires up and runs, then I loose spark right away.  Previous owner (poorly) installed a standard GM alternator and ran a 12 volt battery.  The ignition switch was replaced with a generic one.  The wiring is a mess so I unhooked everything and ran just the wires needed to get it running.  Once I get it running I'll refine the wiring.  Currently I have a Ford style stand alone solenoid.  Hot wire runs from the hot side of the solenoid to the 'batt' terminal on the ignition switch.  Have a wire running from the ignition switch 'ignition' terminal to the batt (+) terminal on the coil.  Have a wire running from the coil negative (-) terminal to the distributor.  Have a wire running from the 'start' terminal on the ignition switch to the terminal on the solenoid to close it and power the starter.  Both battery cables are new and of proper size.  The battery is a new 12 volt version.  The coil is a new 12 volt coil.  New spark plugs, wires, distriutor cap, rotor, points, and condensor.

 

Using a basic circuit tester, I'm getting electricity everywhere I'm suppose to.

 

So what am I overlooking?  I read that the CA ran the positive to the frame and the negative cable to the starter.  The previous owner wired it up with the negative to the frame and the positive to the starter.  I fail to see how this could be the problem, but could it?  Should I reverse the battery cables?

 

It acts as if there is an intermittent  open circuit somewhere.

 

There is a, for lack of a better term, stud inside the distributor that has a piece of spring steel that passes through it.  There is nothing hooked to it so I have no idea what it is for.  I can find nothing in the service manual that describes it.  What is it for and should I have something connected to it?

 

I'm not running a resistor upstream of the distributor yet.  Could this be the problem?

 

One thing I haven't checked yet is if it is in time.  It did run many years ago before sitting.  I just had the head off and had to install four new exhaust valves, and of course new gaskets.

 

Sorry for the long post, but wanted to describe everything the best I could in hopes you guys can help me.  This thing has me stumped and I really need some help.  Thoughts on what I'm overlooking or doing wrong??

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

I checked for spark by sticking a screwdriver in the end of a spark plug wire and holding it close to a ground (holding it by the big plastic handle).  While cranking there is no spark.  Then it'll get a little spark and when it does it takes right off...then no spark again.

 

Anybody know what that other terminal or stud is for under the distributor cap??

 

Thanks for the thought.  The new coil is behaving the same as the old coil.  Could the new coil be bad out of the box?

 

How do I check the timing on this engine?  I see no clear timing mark on the crank pulley or a timing indicator as on a car engine.

 

Put them in new and gapped them according to what the repair manual calls for.  I have checked them and double checked them.  They are opening and closing completely.  Checked the face of them and they appear clean.  Using a basic circuit tester I checked for voltage on the negative side of the coil (-) when the points are closed and opened.  When they are open there is no current.  When the points are closed there is current at the coil (-), at the lug on the side of the distributor, and in the points.  At least that's how I'm remembering it today.  I checked yesterday and I've slept since then, albeit not much sleep.  I could be remembering it the wrong way around.  This is the correct behavior, right??

 

Couldn't be that the condensor is for a 6 volt system and I'm running 12, could it?  Given it's function, I like to think the voltage wouldn't matter to the condensor much, but I've never worked on a 6 volt system before, let alone one that has been converted.  I do know I bought the correct points & condensor for the tractor, so they are designed to work on 6 volts, not 12.

 

Still want to know what that other lug is inside the distributor.  Anybody know??

 

I have not yet pulled the distributor as I do not know how to time this engine properly.  The shaft doesn't show any excessive play while installed, but given the state of everything else on this little tractor I am sure the bushing is worn; to what extent I cannot say for sure.  I'll pull it and give it a closer look.  That and I'll price a replacment.

 

If the condensor has failed, what behavior would you expect to see?  I've always replaced the condensor when replacing points as they are pretty cheap, but I've never experienced a failed condensor.  Would be great if this was the problem.

 

         I have had condenser no good out of the box and points that have been bad a short time after installing. Some of this stuff is made in China and not of much quality.

 

                                                    John Carlson

The stud with the spring steel is just that, a spring to hold the points closed. The cam on the distrib shaft opens them. The end of the spring should connect to the wire that goes through the side of the distributor back to the coil.

I'll see about getting a pic tonight when I get home and posting it up.

 

Going to stop by NAPA on the way home (if I don't forget) and buy a condensor for a 12 volt engine.  I could be wrong, but I'm guessing just any 12 volt condensor will do??  Figure I'll buy one for an old Chevrolet, like my '69 Nova for example.  I'm sure the new condensor I installed is for the oringinal 6 volt system as I bought the points/condensor for the original ignition system.

 

Thanks for all the input.  Got my fingers crossed it is the condensor, but some how that seems just too simple.

 

Since the coil was asked about...I bought it new from O'Reillys and asked for a 12 volt coil since the previous owner had changed the system over.  Prev owner did a poor job of it, so improving upon it is the next step after getting it running.

 

I was going to hook the coil to the battery, bypassing the ignition switch, but decided against it for the time being.  My fear is that if it does start, I'll be scrambling to shut it down should the engine start to run away from me.  I doubt this would or could happen, but my mind gets occupied with these types of thoughts.  The circuit tester shows power at the coil, but I didn't break out the multimeter to measure voltage. 

 

By hot wiring, I mean run a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the ignition coil. It should run. Then run it for a while, even take it for a drive. If it still runs after a while, you know the problem is back a ways, perhaps in the switch or connections. But I wouldn't be too concerned about the charging system, which should have no bearing on the ignition system other than keeping the battery charged.

 

If it does not turn so as to wipe oil across the cam, does it work off of a capillarity principle?

 

An oiler in a distributor.  Sounds like it would make an awful mess.

 

On advice, I'll try running a ground to the distributor, and a hot wire to the coil.  Might not get to it until Saturday as the days are getting short and there is a chance of rain in the forecast.  I need to build that other building.

All this to say there must be a good contact to ground by the fixed (not moving) point.

 

The plastic insulator block for the coil wire (on the side of the distrib housing) is a piece I sourced from a junkyard as the original one was missing when I bought the tractor.  It was rigged up and not good.

 

I finally pulled the distrib late last week.  Other then a worn distrib gear I could not see anything wrong.  It took some doing, and a lot of rust fell out during the process, but I finally was able to remove the plate that the points fasten to.  This sucker needs to be rebuilt or replaced.  I'm trying to decide what to do.  Thoughts?

 

I found a place on-line located in NJ that can clean and (yellow/gold) zinc plate the plate the points fasten to.  One of the weight springs rusted away, so I need to find new ones.  I wish the weights were above the plate so I could test different ones in hopes of finding something close to stock.  Any ideas on the springs?

 

If I rebuild it, I'd need/want a new distrib gear.  Any idea if a direct replacement is available of if something from the automotive world matches?

 

If I send the plate out to get zinc plated, what about the inside of the distrib housing?  Paint it?

 

Is a new bushing readily available?  And what should the up/down play in the shaft be?

 

I purchased an original CA owners manual off of ebay.  It actually has an exploded view of the distributor, very nice/handy.  Still, no tolerances listed.

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

  I would get another used distributor and use that, you'll have to much time/money trying to save the one you have.  I converted from a mag to a distributor with all used parts with no problems.  Just my $0.2...

 

Yes, you are correct.  That, and the distributor should not see full voltage *after* starting.

 

I'm weighing options and appreciate everyones input.  I'm trying to price out a new bushing, new distributor gear, and new advance springs.  Anybody have a lead on any of these as I'm coming up empty.  Still need more research.

 

Or...what is the best source for remanu AC Delco distributors?

 

Or...does anybody have a used distributor that is servicable?  This is my final solution as I'm pretty picky an prefer to refurbish or replace with new when I can.

 

I also have a question about the distributor cap if you guys don't mind fielding it for me.  The dust cap fits nice and snug on the distributor, but the cap seems pretty flaky to me as it does have a little side-to-side movement.  It is a new cap that I purchased a few years back.  When I get around to posting some pics, I'll try to remember to take one of the bottom of the cap too so you guys can have a look.  I question if it shouldn't have a couple square lugs to interlock with the dust cap.  As it is, it has only one little notch IIRC.

 

Bill