You have a three foot long piece of 1" steel and three inches to grab onto on the end. Getting the coupler back on the trany stub shaft takes luck. It must be oriented so the splines are lined up and centered on the shaft to go on. The cotter pin is just for assembly it keeps the coupler that's welded to the drive shaft from sliding apart. During operation it really doesn't have any use. You can't pull the drive shaft out of the torque tube from the engine end because the welded coupler won't fit thru the throw out bearing support tube. It should have taken you about an hour to remove the gas tank,starter,battery and taken two bolts out of the foot rest tube . Take four nuts off and slide it apart. I've just put a sawhorse under it slid it foward balanced with one hand slide the coupling together and stuff a long cotter pin in. I've put then back together without a cotter pin and not worry about it it'll be decades before it needs to come apart again. When you split one for a clutch and the shaft pulls out pu
back in without turning it and you have about a 50% chance of success. Once you've turned the shaft it gets a hundered times harder to get it lined up. I've had my wife turn the belt pulley with the pto engaged while I wiggle the shaft and got it to go back together. I use the same method when trying to get the splines into the clutch disk. if I give her a clean rag she'll stand behind the tractor and turn the belt pulley for a few minutes if I ask nicely.
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CrestonM wrote:
