B Oil Filter Experiment

I saw this and thought it was interesting. 

I use the Fram C-159 in both of mine. never had any problems. Always remember to pour some clean oil into the filter and let it soak in before attaching it.

Bypass filters were the standard before good filters were invented to handle the full flow of all the oil from the pump. Cleaning was a side effect of the bypass filter.

Some of the pleated bypass filters have lowered the oil pressure on Allis engines enough to wreck the engines. The Fram C159 filter is safe for these engines, others are deadly.

Gerald J.

Very nicely written and analyized. Sic) That took quite a bit of time and thanks for sharing.

Mrgoodwrench wrote: That's a nice experiment but why not just buy the factory filter for the $7 it costs

Everybody don't have an Agco dealer down the street.JP

So why not just change the little orifice to a smaller one and let it do all the oil flow limiting? 

I dough the relief valve ever opens on these systems.    MACK

CrestonM wrote: I say why not get a stiffer relief spring...

 Imagine a garden hose with a Tee so you have 4 ends. Hook one to the hydrant, put your relief valve with your stiffer spring to the second end, and run the third end to the filter base. Your 4th is just for a pressure gauge.
 With the proper filter on the base, turn on the water and look at say 15 psi on the gauge. The relief valve was basically a safety deal so you don't blow out the oil filter can.  Now, remove the filter and see what happens to the pressure at the gauge. Yes, it WILL go to 0 psi!
 That is exactly what happens with those WIX filters, no restriction in the filter makes for no pressure to the gauge. It don't matter if you plug the relief valve off completely, the fluid will go to easiest route, right thru the filter.
 If you went to AGCO in 2002, and paid extra for a filter, you most likely got a "new" junk WIX which was the cause of many engine overhauls that wouldn't have been needed with the proper restriction in the filter. Around 2002, I had our purchasing agent at my work order a filter from NAPA when he had a big order of things for the shop. Luckily I had read on this forum about the junk filters being sold. That filter got sent back.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 09 Sep 2016 at 7:35am

CrestonM wrote: I say why not get a stiffer relief spring...

I look at it purely from an engineering stand point of X amount of restriction is needed which relates directly to Y amount of oil being able to flow through the circuit.  

Edited by Tcmtech - 09 Sep 2016 at 11:45am

I'm glad I'm converting over my WD45 to a full flow/filtration system

Allis dave wrote: I'm glad I'm converting over my WD45 to a full flow/filtration system

re: ...
why not just buy the factory filter for the $7 it costs

...cause up here they cost 24 Canucks !!

and I need 4 of them, sigh....

I'll gladly pay $7 a piece though !!

Jay

Tcmtech wrote: Now if you put a properly sized restrictor orifice on the connection between the aforementioned Tee that would choke off the flow to the filter your relief valve concept works just fine and solves the whole who's filter is the best one' debate being any filter of any size would now work and the system would run at whatever pressure the relief valve sets it at.  Yea I know, 'but, but, but... the stock orifice is ~1/16" dia and I don't have a smaller drill bit that that so I can't make a new one or solder/braze the old one shut and redrill smaller'.  Oh well, it's a shame world has ever been able to mass manufacture a drill bit smaller than 1/16" huh?  So doing an online search for such a drill bit the size of a needle, a 'needle drill bit' or 'micro drill bit' would be a fitting name such things if they existed, would be pointless?

The restriction IS properly sized to let a certain amount of oil pass through the filter. Closing the restriction down may give you more pressure at the gauge, but will  filter less oil and do NOTHING for the engine except run dirtier oil thru it.  The only pressure needed in the CE engine, is to get oil up to the top of the head so it can leak out through the rocker arm and lube the top end.
 Here is Dick's description of the oiling system.

" Oil pressure is not made at the bearings on this engine. The bearings can all be shot and still have full pressure. The relief valve is in the stem of the oil pump leading to the center of the camshaft. No pressure is built in the camshaft. The cam bearings and main bearings are oiled by the spinning of the cam shaft forcing the oil out holes in the camshaft by centrifugal force. The oil pipe you see leading to the filter and head is where the pressure is built between the relief valve and the resistance thru the oil filter. The spinning of the crankshaft causes the little funnels in the top of the rods to catch oil being spun out of the camshaft holes that are in line with the rods. The oil is forced into the rod bearings thru centrifugal force. That be the oil systems operation in this engine."
 
 Now as far as drill bits, you CAN buy just about any size you want as long as it's bigger than .013 of an inch. http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm
I've drilled HUNDREDS of 1 mm holes in parts in a CNC lathe.