B Crank Start Engine Pulley

Hello everyone, my dad just bought a 1939 Allis Chalmers B crank start.  The tractor looks OK and runs great...when we can get it started.  The previous owner had rebuilt the engine and it really does run nicely, but the engine crankshaft pulley has gotten worn down; specifically, the grooves that the crank seats into have worn away and it's hard to get the crank to bite into the pulley adequately.  Called the local Agco dealer and was told that they still make this part brand new in limited quantities--for $243.  Does anyone have an idea where we might be able to find this part used (in REALLY good condition) or brand new (for a little less than $243)?  Thanks for any help. 

I think I have a pulley that probably looks like yours. Somebody out there has a good one or you could do like Dave says. Find somebody to build yours up some.

I don't know how bad your pulley is without seeing it but I have renewed a couple of them by clamping them in a mill vice and plunging cutting a 1/2" mill cutter to reshape the catch for the crank pin. If a hunk has not broken off it should work. 

Thank you everyone for your help and advice! I've got a new (old) one on the way.

All right, been working on getting the old pulley off, without much success.  We've been pouring lubricant to it and heating it up with the blow torch for 5 minutes or so, and it won't budge.  Does anyone have an idea for us?

There is a set screw on there. You will have to use a gear puller. I have used 3 short nuts and bolts behind the pulley in combination with a puller.  Put pressure on it from behind by cranking out the nut. They have been on there for up to 70 years. 

Where in MI are you located? I wonder if one of the guys on here could take a look....

Ray's right.  Went thru this in March.  Thought for sure it was going to break-but it didn't.  Heat and steady pull from a good gearpuller.

A bearing separator placed behind the pulley distributes pressure from the puller well...  Just a suggestion   -Wes

Hello, I just purchased a 1946 B, and am getting my nuts busted constantly... I think the starter was rebuilt backwards since the positive line damn near melted as I tried to jump start it... I was hoping to purchase the hand crank that you wrote about to try it out...

Thanks, Rob.

My experience with these pulleys is that you need a really good puller. I have broken a few of them with pullers. I believe I have heated them a bunch to get them off.

 If the one you have on there is shot you may even consider cutting it off with an angle grinder. Maybe cut a groove on opposite sides enough so that you can crack the casting with a chisel?  

Fred's price is good.  I usually get $45 four ours.  I have about  a 50% ratio of getting them off without breaking.  But then most of what I'm working on has set dead for a long time.

I'll have a look tomorrow but my neighbor is a machinist and he makes and sells a special crank pulley remover for the Farmall Cub. That pulley a press fit over 2" on the crank. This remover uses a bottle jack like a portapower and there is a plate designed to pull from the hub and not out on the edges like 3 jaw pullers. This just might work well on these pulleys as well. This puller probably has pulled hundreds of pulleys without breaking a single one and these have to be tighter than the Allis setup since they are a slip fit to begin with.

Took one off yesterday.  Like everyone says remove the locking screw.  Put your puller on and heat the pulley with a propane torch.  It will bust loose.  Also you may want to heat the pulley then spray with rust buster.  As the pulley cools it will wick some of the rust buster into the seams.  Turn the crank so the lock screw hole is facing up and spray some rust buster into the hole. 
Do the next guy a favor when they are rebuilding it again in 70 years---Anti Seize !!!