B Crank Start Engine Pulley
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12679
Printed Date: 19 Jun 2025 at 11:19pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: B Crank Start Engine Pulley
Posted By: GLHolmes
Subject: B Crank Start Engine Pulley
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 8:34pm
| Hello everyone, my dad just bought a 1939 Allis Chalmers B crank start. The tractor looks OK and runs great...when we can get it started. The previous owner had rebuilt the engine and it really does run nicely, but the engine crankshaft pulley has gotten worn down; specifically, the grooves that the crank seats into have worn away and it's hard to get the crank to bite into the pulley adequately. Called the local Agco dealer and was told that they still make this part brand new in limited quantities--for $243. Does anyone have an idea where we might be able to find this part used (in REALLY good condition) or brand new (for a little less than $243)? Thanks for any help. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 8:54pm
|
Welcome to the Forum! I'll bet that there's a good used part out there......or perhaps you could get someone to add some metal with a welder and then recut the notches with a grinder. With the radiator removed, this could be done right on the tractor. Good luck! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 9:04pm
|
I think I have a pulley that probably looks like yours. Somebody out there has a good one or you could do like Dave says. Find somebody to build yours up some.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 9:42pm
| Thinking about it, there has to be a good supply of good used pullys that never saw a hand crank. After all, there were lots more Bs Cs and CAs with electric start than handcrank only Bs. I may even have a few stashed away just in case I rebuild another handcrank B. They are cast iron and plenty get broken getting them off when rebuilding a engine. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 6:17am
| I don't know how bad your pulley is without seeing it but I have renewed a couple of them by clamping them in a mill vice and plunging cutting a 1/2" mill cutter to reshape the catch for the crank pin. If a hunk has not broken off it should work. |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 6:20am
| $25.oo plus shipping.PM me if you want it.Will send pictures so you can see it is good. |
Posted By: GLHolmes
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 7:01pm
| Thank you everyone for your help and advice! I've got a new (old) one on the way. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 7:34pm
|
Excellent! Let us know how you make out, please. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: GLHolmes
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 4:56pm
|
All right, been working on getting the old pulley off, without much success. We've been pouring lubricant to it and heating it up with the blow torch for 5 minutes or so, and it won't budge. Does anyone have an idea for us?
|
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 5:07pm
|
Take the second set screw out. Some had a double set screw, one to jam the other.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 5:09pm
|
There is a set screw on there. You will have to use a gear puller. I have used 3 short nuts and bolts behind the pulley in combination with a puller. Put pressure on it from behind by cranking out the nut. They have been on there for up to 70 years.
------------- Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180 |
Posted By: GLHolmes
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 6:29pm
| Still working on it and looking it over; we cannot see a second set screw. We only found one set screw on the backside of the pulley on a raised portion of the collar. Also, the pressure of the gear puller is breaking the back side of the old pulley right off. Please help! |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 6:31pm
|
Where in MI are you located? I wonder if one of the guys on here could take a look.... ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: R Aiken
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 7:08pm
This is what I use to get those pulleys off. Some of them I had to get red hot but never broke one. Some of them are tight.
 |
Posted By: WC7610
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 9:49pm
|
Ray's right. Went thru this in March. Thought for sure it was going to break-but it didn't. Heat and steady pull from a good gearpuller. ------------- Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 9:55pm
| Both set screws are in the same location - one behind the other. I found out the hard way getting the pulley off of my D14. |
Posted By: Wes (VA)
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 11:55pm
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A bearing separator placed behind the pulley distributes pressure from the puller well... Just a suggestion -Wes |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 6:37am
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If there is any shaft sticking out from the front of the pulley, clean it and remove any paint or burrs. Wire wheel, sandpaper, and a file. If you have pulled it out some, spay penetrating oil on it and tap it back in.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: reggleston
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2010 at 6:57pm
|
Hello, I just purchased a 1946 B, and am getting my nuts busted constantly... I think the starter was rebuilt backwards since the positive line damn near melted as I tried to jump start it... I was hoping to purchase the hand crank that you wrote about to try it out... Thanks, Rob. |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2010 at 10:09pm
|
Are you aware that the positive wire is the ground wire on a 46B.
Did you have your jumper wires reversed?
Bob
|
Posted By: acisbest
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2010 at 5:46am
|
My experience with these pulleys is that you need a really good puller. I have broken a few of them with pullers. I believe I have heated them a bunch to get them off. If the one you have on there is shot you may even consider cutting it off with an angle grinder. Maybe cut a groove on opposite sides enough so that you can crack the casting with a chisel? |
Posted By: George Davenport
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2010 at 8:03am
| Saw a used one on e-Bay last night. Price was starting at 9.99 It was listed as crankshaft pulley |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2010 at 11:00am
|
Fred's price is good. I usually get $45 four ours. I have about a 50% ratio of getting them off without breaking. But then most of what I'm working on has set dead for a long time.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2010 at 1:05pm
| I had this happen a while ago, on a D-12. Book said you needed a very big puller. Rented one and broke the pulley. That pulley i think has a woodruff key (D shaped) in it. With the engine turning in one direction for over 70 years, the key bites into the side of the keyway on the crank shaft. With everything cleaned up, you should be able to see the keyway in the pulley and in the crank shaft. put a bolt in one of the side holes in the pulley and with a punch and hammer tap (rotate) the pulley till both keyways are aligned. Should come off easy then. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2010 at 4:47pm
| I'll have a look tomorrow but my neighbor is a machinist and he makes and sells a special crank pulley remover for the Farmall Cub. That pulley a press fit over 2" on the crank. This remover uses a bottle jack like a portapower and there is a plate designed to pull from the hub and not out on the edges like 3 jaw pullers. This just might work well on these pulleys as well. This puller probably has pulled hundreds of pulleys without breaking a single one and these have to be tighter than the Allis setup since they are a slip fit to begin with. |
Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2010 at 10:32pm
|
Look at the picture that Rich Akin posted thats all the tools you need . put the heat too it get it red hot it will come off and if it breaks so what it was worn out thats why you want one thats not right. ore grind, drill, weld ore whtever wen the engine backs while your cranking and the crank dozent come out you can call me and I give the name of the DR. who put my wrist back together. |
Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2010 at 6:51am
|
Took one off yesterday. Like everyone says remove the locking screw. Put your puller on and heat the pulley with a propane torch. It will bust loose. Also you may want to heat the pulley then spray with rust buster. As the pulley cools it will wick some of the rust buster into the seams. Turn the crank so the lock screw hole is facing up and spray some rust buster into the hole. Do the next guy a favor when they are rebuilding it again in 70 years---Anti Seize !!! 
------------- Bob, North Carolina 1949 B |
Posted By: jayjay145
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 7:22am
| I'm in need on a good used hand start crank pulley for my 1938 B as well. Anyone have one they could part with? Thanks! |