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AMK82 
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Joined: 08 Jul 2022
Location: Wisconsin
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 Topic: AMBAC 100 INJECTION PUMP TIMING ON 8070 ALLIS
Posted: 08 Jul 2022 at 10:17pm |
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I NEED TO REPLACE THE INJECTION PUMP ON MY 8070 ALLIS. I NEED TO KNOW HOW THIS PUMP IS TIMED AND WHAT DEGRESS TO SET THE ENGINE AT. I NEED TO REMOVE THE ONE FROM A DONOR ENGINE THAT I HAVE AND INSTALL IT ON THE ENGINE THAT IS IN THE TRACTOR. I AM FAMILAR WITH THE STANDEYNE PUMPS IN MY 7020 AND 7045 IF THAT HELPS ANY.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 5:57am |
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19 degrees BTDC
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AMK82
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 8:56am |
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How do you tell if the pump is timed after you put the engine at TDC.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 9:07am |
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Never fiddled with an M100 so I don't know where it's timing mark is located but for sure as Doc says the crank is set at 19 deg not TDC. If you don't have a manual you can probably use the internet to find it.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 09 Jul 2022 at 9:08am
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AMK82
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 4:57pm |
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I understand 19 deg. Btdc. But the ambac pump doesn't have a plate to verify that the pump is in time. I need to get this pump replaced asap so I can get it back on the baler. I don't want to transfer the monitors for the baler to another tractor or level the draw bar again to a different tractor. I don't have a manual for the tractor and I've tried searching online with little success.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 5:33pm |
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You can do it two ways. Time it at 19 degrees BTDC and if it won't start, return it to 19 degrees BTDC, remove the drive gear from the front of the pump, turn the engine ONE full revolution back to 19 degrees BTDC and reattach the gear. Or remove the side plate from the hydraulic head and look for a timing mark on the gear inside. The timing mark must be where you can see it, then you are on #1. So, you should do this first to remove the good pump and do it again to remove the bad pump.
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 9:13pm |
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Remove side plate on side of front timing cover. There is a pointer and a scribe mark on hub of pump. When you go back together, paint the scribe mark with white out to make it easier to see. With front pulley on 19 degrees and pointer on scribe mark, you should be in time or 180 degrees out. MACK
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tbran
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Paris Tn
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Posted: 10 Jul 2022 at 2:26pm |
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Remember Ambac's have a one to one ratio vs the 2 to one on a Roosa...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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WLHD21
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Joined: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 10 Jul 2022 at 9:22pm |
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If pump is not sealed you can remove the four screws on the rotor cover and line up timing mark on rotor as well as the needle pointer when #1 is on 19 BTDC
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 11 Jul 2022 at 8:11am |
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just remember the mark in the side cover just needs to be in the window, not lined up with the mark there, the pointer on the pump hub behind the drive gear is where you line up marks. When properly timed the mark in the side window will be off about a 1/4 to 1/2".
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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AMK82
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Posted: 11 Jul 2022 at 1:21pm |
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Thanks for all the information. The failed pump was missing the timing pointer.. It has been off before. The other pump has the timing pointer on it and has been rebuilt at least once already. Both pumps were timed identically when I removed them. I'm pretty confident the engine will start after bleeding the air out of the system.
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